My New Project Build (Pictures)

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  • XSPastor
    replied
    More springs...

    ebay springs

    more ebay springs

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  • XSPastor
    replied
    You can use 0000 steel wool to clean up the springs but don't expect miracles if the pitting is too bad. I saw a brand new set if the springs for sale on ebay today.

    ebay shock springs

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  • turbo3g
    replied
    update:P

    Hey do any of you guys know what I can use to get ride of the rust on my rare shocks? look at the last pics i posted you'll see what I mean.
    I heard using a kind of very fine sleel wool would work?
    I have done some thinks since the last time I was on here.
    the fender is off and the Harely flare was cut off. The origonal side covers are fixed and primered. I desided to just zip tie them on for now till I can weld the holders back on. I really want to get ride of the Harely turns and what to put on the R1 turns. they are LEDs and look really nice. they look like arrows.

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  • JOEY
    replied
    Hey turbo3g do you live near palatka I could swear I seen your bike come through palatka this past weekend.

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  • dingman29
    replied
    thanks for the photos... here's the fender i was talking about... got used to html code...



    i got the idea from a honda cx500

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  • Bowtied
    replied
    Thats an awesome little project! I GOT DIBS ON THE SEAT!!! If you decide to get rid of it for some reason let me know!


    Looks like a great start tho! Can't wait to see what you do with it! Good luck man!

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  • turbo3g
    replied
    da-bubble was actually my inspiration to get an sx11 He did such a great job on his I figured I could do the same. Not copy cat his but to customize mine. To be honest too.... I didn't put that fender on there. That’s the way the bike was when I got it. But here are some Pics of how it’s mounted. :P
    ill take more if you want
    I dont think that you'll need to cut yours you just have to make sure that there is enough space for the fender that you going to put on. after you make sure that is will fit between the 2 mounting points just get nuts and polts that will fit. and you have a mounted fender. :P









    O and by the way I cant see your Pic.
    Last edited by Ken Talbot; 10-26-2008, 09:18 PM. Reason: images moved to separate lines

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  • dingman29
    replied
    what kind of mods need to be done to get that rear fender on... i have one that i like at oldys... <img src= "http://www.oldinc.com/cf7a.jpg">

    da-bubble cut his frame and i don't know if i trust myself that much.... hey at least i am honest...

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  • turbo3g
    replied
    Hey TC
    thanks for all the info. The Carbs one the bike have 4 holes in the inlet. so i guess its the newer year ones. the covers on the parts cabs was actualy on the carbs that is on the bike now. I dont think it makes a diffrence if it does ill change it back to the origonal.
    I had the bike running good for 2 days. But now the carb on the outer right side of the bike is poppinga lot of whit smoke. I heard the bike do this a couple of times but no smoke came out. I think I nead to clean the carbs again fot the 3rd time.:P I dont know if the intake valve is bad or bent but its realy weird. and now the bike wont idle. it will run at full choke but nothing else. Help me!
    Last edited by turbo3g; 10-26-2008, 12:50 PM.

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  • TopCatGr58
    replied
    Hey Turbo,

    Congrats on your acquisition and good work so far! I've got plans for a major Carb Tech Tip, waiting for winter to get cooler so I will have more time to work indoors to create it.

    Those carbs with chrome outer caps and rusted inner caps may have come off of an 80 or 81 machine. They ARE different than the STOCK 79 series, both in internal design and jetting required. The float needles/seats are also different, along with the floats. IF it has larger plastic floats instead of the old brass style, then it's the later/newer series. The older series has 2 sets of "T" inputs on their sides, lower is FUEL, upper are float bowl vents and NEED TO BE VENTED, not capped! The older series only has 3 small ports on the inlet bells, the newer has 4, the extra for float bowl vent. Older uses solid metal float needles, and flat fiber washer under screw in seat, the newer uses rubbe/viton tipped needles with press in seats with an O-ring under it that often shrinks and leaks! The older uses pilot jet tower caps because shares it's fuel supply with MAIN jet tower via tunnel, hence larger MAINS ie. 135, vs newer carbs pilots drink directly from bowl, no caps, no sharing tunnel, and mains are smaller ie. 110-120. You jet based on carb style not just YEAR of bike/engine!

    The speedo was probably swapped due to damage to old. The 160's are more sought, and more rare = $$, but other Yamaha speedos for XS's will bolt on, and provide more than 85mph, but not necessarily 160, ie. 750/850's as well as the 650's, all use same front wheel and drive ratio.

    If you're De-harleyfying it, you might want to keep that OEM rear fender, it looks pristine, but if you're going to keep your Harley fender, then you're right in selling the OEM one.

    THe older side covers use a slotted mount for the tops, and have been known to FLY off and get broken or lost. The newer design uses a round hole with a larger Rubber grommet to secure them, I've never had one fall off of my 81SH, but you might want to attach a cable, chain to the covers during your repair that you can attach to the frame just in case!
    T.C.

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  • turbo3g
    replied
    Thanks Doo-Daa, Selfmade, and CatatonicBuge for your input. I thought about PVC glue once but didn't think that I could Paint over it.
    The 3M automix is cinda expensive. that Plastex look good, I've never heard of it, so ill try it and see how it looks.

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  • Doo-Daa
    replied
    ABS/PVC Pipe glue works well also. Gotta be the ABS/PVC stuff though.

    Paint it on, let it set for a day. Also had good luck with "painting in" fiberglass cloth for those places where you need a bit more structure.

    Fixed the side covers on my 'E, three years ago, repaired a hole in my saddle bag lid, and repaired a crack in the fairing mounting flange. All still holding strong.

    FWIW
    Doo-Daa

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  • selfmade
    replied
    for the plastics you can grind a v notch in them with a die grinder and then use 8237 3m automix plastic adhesive to bond them and then skim coat it with 5887 and sand smooth. prime and paint good as new.

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  • CatatonicBug
    replied
    There's a recent thread here about someone using a product called Plastex, or something like that, to completely fix the side panels. They even used the stuff to re-create the logo lettering. Would be worth searching for.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dsxs11
    replied
    Dibs on the rear shocks if you decide to swap them out.

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