Headlight HI/LOW switch

[Bonz]

Hey guys,

Headlights quit (instrument lights too) and all the previous posts I read look like it's the headlight relay. So, I will pull the tank and get at it (1980 SG).

In the meantime, I checked the headlight switch to be sure the problem wasn't there, the plastic post that the hi/lo beam slide button mounts on broke. I JB welded it and it worked for a day, then broke off lower yet, right at the base of the plastic piece that has the copper spring loaded contacts that moves inside the switch cluster to change from lo to hi beam.

What's the possibility of getting any part to fix what I just described? Can I get the specific piece without getting an entire switch pod assembly bike that is just as old as mine, are there cross reference parts from other models, current models, am I screwed, etc..

Thanks in advance for any help.

[DiverRay]

The EASY way is to order a new switch from mikesxs. They are for the 650, but the wires CAN be switched so they work with the 1100. Do a search, and one of the threads MAY have the model other owners have used.
I would stay clear of used parts, as they are all almost 30 years old, and the plastic may break once again. The switch parts is NOT available, so it WILL be a "replacement" part you need.

[Bonz]

Switch cluster internals

Help clarify for me... Is the 650 switch the same switch as the 1100 SG? It sounds like it might be from your response.

If so, then it would make the most sense to get the switch and take out the slide part that broke on mine. That avoids messing with the wires, etc.

Let me know if you can confirm or deny this is the same switch.

As well, is Mike cool with us XS1100 owners buying from him? I have the impression he isn't from what I have seen elsewhere. Or he doesn't give as good a deal? Any special process to follow?

[Fddlefoot]

Mikes XS

Mikes will be more than happy to sell to you just don't mention part is for 1100 thay will tell you they only sell 650 parts just mean you need to do more research to make sure part compatible first the UK part finder site can help plus american ingenuity for the rest quite often.

[Bonz]

I found the switch, it looks to be identical to mine, and is for north american models. I cannot imagine it is not the same one, so I'm ordering it.

Thanks!

[fredintoon]

Hi Howard,
dunno about yours but my XS11SG has the 4-way flasher switch on the bottom of that switch unit. You will need to make different arrangements for that. Also the plug-in on the wires from Mikes switch is gonna be different although nothing that solder & shrinksleeve can't fix.

[Bonz]

10-4, thanks for the heads up. My plan is to take the internal parts for the headlight switch out of the new one and put them in my existing housing. All the other functions (flasher, turn signals, push to cancel, horn) work fine so the transplant is what I have had in mind. If that doesn't work, then I'll do a splice and dice.

[Crazcnuk]

Fred, I didn't think the Specials came with the 4ways?

Thought that was a std thing, I assume some PO upgraded?

[Bonz]

My 80 SG has the 4-ways as well.

[oldyam80sg]

Mine broke off too so i bought a new switch and gutted it and replaced the on/off mechanism.Pretty easy to remove.

[Bonz]

Like minds...

Oldyam80sg and all the rest of you guys...

Yeah, we have to make work what we can, and that makes it much more sweet the next time I flip the hi/lo beam switch once I make the fix.

Still gotta get the headlight relay thing done so I actually have a light to flip the switch on!

Thanks all, appreciate it much.

[fredintoon]

"Fred, I didn't think the Specials came with the 4ways?
Thought that was a std thing, I assume some PO upgraded?"
Hi Craz,
Nah, Clymer's shows the hazard relay on the XS11SG wiring diagram.

[Crazcnuk]

Derwat's '79 doesn't have the hazard system.

Learn something everyday.

[Bonz]

Okay fellas,

Got the headlight relay taken out, jumped the red and blue wires on the connector and the headlights work fine with the key on, and they turn of when I turn the key off.

That tells me, if I am correct, that the diode is good (which was very easy to find, actually exposed in a plastic sheath and not wrapped in black tape on the harness) and that I can either jump the wires or try a new relay.

I am trying a new relay to keep things functioning "normal" and found one at Pep Boys for $24 that has the same terminal size and location and about the same overall size as the stock one.

I'll give it a try tonight. Not a $5 fix like some relays I have seen on this thread, but it appears those cheaper ones didn't have the exact terminal placement (orientation) and size as the stock one. Correct me if I'm wrong, I can always take this one back.

[oldyam80sg]

Give it a try.