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Think I am going back with OEM frictions and springs with the extra steel plate and leave it at that.
I'd just like to reiterate (for redundancy's sake) that if you replace the steels and frictions with new OEM's and replace the springs, that I really doubt you'll need any extra plates - if you keep the old steels, it may be useful to add a plate...imho, ymmv, IANAL, etc
Snows right a whole new set of clutch plates, steel and friction is the way to go, of course new is going to be better than the old worn stuff, if it still slips after that, there must be more wear somewhere else, it's easy enough to throw in another steel plate later but hopefully it won't need one.
Originally posted by pggg Depends on how much wear, compare the total thickness between the original stack and the new one..
+1 - I have no idea how thick the complete barnett set is compared to OEM. I know if you replace all three sets (steels, frictions, springs) with OEM that you won't need an extra plate but have no idea with barnetts.
the steels don't have little dots on them, is that okay or is that a barnett thing?, my other bikes didn't have them either, but looking at tc's pictures they had em.
does it matter if i put the steels in with the rounded side in or out, you know what i'm talking about right, it seems like they are stamped out and both sides are different...
oh and the frictions are glued onto aluminum plates,are the originals steel? and is that a barnett thing?
thanks as usual.
"a good man knows his limitations" dirty harry
History
85 Yamaha FJ 1100
79 yamaha xs1100f
03 honda cbr 600 f4
91 yamaha fzr 600
84 yamaha fj 1100
82 yamaha seca 750
87 yamaha fazer
86 yamaha maxim x
82 yamaha vision
78 yamaha rd 400
mro
BTW, had ment to send you a plate but read your post about getting the Barnett. Should not need the extra steel and since your replaceing the OEM you have 8 extras now anyways.
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