Need Help!!!!!!!!

[80mdnt11]

Just out of curiosity?

frmrby69, Are you running it with air box off? If so this may cause lean mixture also. As TC stated, good flow through exhaust? Did you bread tie sync. the butterflys?
Sounds like sucking WAY too much air or just can't get rid of it.....
As for carb kits, got mine through http://partsnmore.com/ , reasonable price and quality.
Another LG on the forum block , but you know if ya get too frustrated with it I'd offer a couple bucks for it just to ease your stress!!
You have to promise NOT to paint it John Deer green
Hang in there, you'll get it.
BTW, Throttle shaft seals are still available through http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandi...mfr~Yamaha.asp , Kinda pricey though considering x 8. Soak with wd-40 and armor-all, install with a little vaseline.
Good Luck

[frmrby69]

Never paint JD green maybe Case red. HA HA. Not going to get rid of it just yet. But do have a friend that does custom body and paint work to make bike special if I ever get it running.

I am running it without air filter but I see that is a prob so I will get one in the morning. Thanks 80mdnt11 for advice on parts but at this point the seals are cheap to taking this massive carb set off again. Really the only parts that was stiff or bad was the butterfly seals.

Pipes are replacement pipes not sure of brand but are 4 to 2. May need to rejet carbs also will read on. I did breadtie the carbs abd rechecked them when I had them off also. It just has to be air as I can not find anything else. The air coming out of the exhaust is cool yet the pipes get way to hot.

Thanks for all the good advice.

Everything I have ever done seems to be baptism by FIRE!!!!!!!!!

[frmrby69]

Well all I seem to finally have the fuel problem resolved but now or maybe have been having problems with spark. I have spark only part of the time. This is very baffeling as it does not make any sense to me. I will have spark and then all the sudden not have spark. It effects all the cylinders like the kill switch is being flipped. I hope someone has some ideas as I have exhausted all of mine. Please Help!!!!!!!!!!

frmrby69

[TopCatGr58]

Like you said, the Kill switch can get corroded, take it apart and inspect, clean, etc. from the handlebar.

Secondly, the MAIN ignition switch can also get corroded, as well as the wires come unsoldered!?

Can't remember if you've checked your FUSEBLOCK, glass fuses suck!!

Under the gas tank near the front above the coils, there is a safety tip over cutout switch that can get flaky, is labelled UP on it, just unplug and remove to bypass!!

And of course there's the dreaded PickUp Coil wires under the left timing cover.

BTW, have you read thru the tech tips....scrolling down from the MAIN FORUM PAGE, not just from the link in the left hand column??
Lots of info there about what you've been troubleshooting!!
T.C.

[frmrby69]

Well I got it running again but after the bike gets warm it starts to miss and not want to idle. Not sure what would cause this as it has about 115 lbs compression across all 4 cylinders even after hot.

Thanks for all your input.

frmrby69

[skids]

Idling will run the battery down in a hurry. You can pull the headlight fuse and buy a lot more time. If the volts drop to about 10.3, the black box will not send spark to the plugs. Look at the plugs. Have they been getting fluffy black or are wet with fuel? You know what that means.

Originally posted by frmrby69
Well I got it running again but after the bike gets warm it starts to miss and not want to idle. Not sure what would cause this as it has about 115 lbs compression across all 4 cylinders even after hot.

Thanks for all your input.

frmrby69

[frmrby69]

Thanks skids I think that was my spark prob I hooked up battery charger to bike and vroom off I went. I guess it is time for new battery now.

I still am having trouble with exhaust getting cherry red at the first bend. So I guess I still have a fuel issue. The bike runs terrific, just if it didn't get so hot. I have a laser temp gauge at work I am going to bring it home and find out just how hot they are.

If anyone has any other suggestions. I would really appreciate it.

Thanks All
frmrby69

[frmrby69]

Well I replaced the battery today and got good results. Bike runs almost perfect but I have still not rode it. My concern is still the exhaust turning red at the exhaust manifold. I am beginning to believe this is ok as all the pics of these bikes that I look at the pipes are blue. I used an infrared thermometer today to check the temp after running idle for 3 min(300 degrees F +/- 5 degree). I can not find anywhere what is the norm and what would be to high. I am just afraid of sucking a vavle or burning a piston. If anyone knows what it should please let me know.

Thanks

frmrby

[skids]

I just can't imagine it running that hot! Do you have some sort of aftermarket headpipes/exhaust on it? The stock ones are a pipe in a pipe. 300 degrees F is not enough to turn a headpipe to cherry red. I would thaink that at idle you would have to adjust the idle up if it were that lean just to get it to keep running. You could back your mixture screws out a half turn each. Your floats are in the middle of the spec. range? I would put it there and start checking plugs. Make sure you are using a colder plug rating (they generally have a bigger diameter positive electrode to transfer heat from the head quicker). When you start the bike on the center stand, the oil level should disappear from the window. Shoot, I don't know what else to tell you. Make sure that you are putting never-seize on your plug threads...

[frmrby69]

Yes it has aftermarket exhaust on it. The guys I got the bike from bought the bike from the original owner, went out and bought new exhaust, had the gas tank painted and only rode the bike twice. I am not real sure what brand pipes he bought but they are 4 to 2 pipes. He purchased them from a local Yamaha dealer for around $400. So they are not cheap pipes but they are not double wall at the heads. Well I going to double check all the coils and if all checks out, I am GOING for a short ride and then check plugs.

Thanks for your help everyone. You have all helped alot. Not just from this thread but from this site. It is awesome and I hope I can contribute to someone else with what I have learned.

Thanks
Frmrby

[frmrby69]

Well it seems I have most of the bugs worked out. I found broken wires on the pickup coil and repaired them but now I only have two other problems. The bike runs perfect if I have the fuel cock on prime but when I turn it to on after a minute or two it starts to miss and then quits. So I know it is running out of gas but I can not find the problem. I ran the bike up the road a 1/4 of a mile three times but when I shift it into first gear it grinds and it locks up. I have to shut the bike off let out the clutch and rock the bike to get it out of first. All other gears seem to be ok. I will go to the break down as see how the tranny works but if anyone has any advice please let me know.

Thanks
frmrby

[frmrby69]

I read up on the trans problem and will head into that tonight. It doesn't look to difficult. But I still am not sure why I am not getting enough petro to the carb when the fuelcocks sre in the on position. Remeber from previous post it runs perfect in the prime position. Maybe ride tomorrow after tranny fixed.

[John]

I'd be willing to bet the fuel issue has to do with the octpus, if it is still in use. The octopus is just an inline, vacuum operated, on-off valve for the fuel system, and if it doesn't open, then you get no flow to the carbs. Is the vacuum line for it attached to one of the vacuum nipples on the carb boots? Here's a silly question... where is the hose for the vacuum advance attached?
The way the petcock operates in prime mode is the hose from the prime nipple (the front one) is routed to the hose that feeds the carbs after the fuel has exited the octopus. That is how you get fuel to the carbs without the engine running. Your just bypassing the 'valve'. I would recommend getting rid of the octopus, and plumb each petcock to the carbs on the opposite side of the bike. Use the rear nipple on the petcock for your fuel line, and cap off the front nipple. You won't need it again. Fuel will now flow from the petcock in run and reserve, only you will have to remember to turn the petcocks on and off manually.On the exhaust issue, have you pulled the pipes and tried to run some heavy steel wire into the pipes to check for obstructions? Just a thought. The pipes should not glow red. It sure seems like a vacuum issue. What condition are the caps on the vacuum nipples on the carb oots in? hard and brittle? Those could be leaking. How about the seal where the carb boots meet the head? Any leaks there?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Frmrboy,

That's rather ambitious thinking that you'll have the bike working after 1 day's work on the tranny! Your problem sounds a bit more complex than just the worn dogs and slots of 1st, 2nd, 4th, 5th. When the tranny locks up, it's usually because 2 gears on the same shaft(countershaft) are engaging one or more gears on the primary shaft. This can happen with bent shift forks not disengaging one gear completely while trying to mesh the other gear!?

So...you may be in need of a shift fork, but the shift drum can also get worn....but more likely the fork!

Well, here's hoping it's not "forked" up too badly!
T.C.

[frmrby69]

Thanks CT for the vote of confidense (HAHA). Remember I said MAYBE ride tommorow. But it was not locking up the tranny but I had trouble getting it back out of first gear. I sure hop it is not more than the typical fix. The biggest challenge will be flipping the bike as I have to do this alone. But I do have a big farming cherry picker to use as the second person. I will maybe know more by morning as I am used to burning the midnight oil! But I have to wait for the hockey game to get over with before I go back to the garage (GO SENATORS!!!!!!).

Thanks John for the ideas. I am thinking about the way I have the gas lines hooked up. I may have messed up when I re-installed the tank today and hooked the gas lines up wrong. I need to look at that when I go back out. I am still not real sure about the heat issue as I did ride it for the first time today and everything seemed like it maybe OK. After go up the rode for a couple short runs I checked the temp wit an infrared thermoter and all the pipes where around 180 degrees F and the jugs around 220 degrees, which I believe is fine. Just wished someone knew what the correct or normal operating temp should be. I am going to check the other things you mentioned.

I am looking so forward to riding this bike!!!!!!!!!!!

I have my laptop in the garage with internet access. So I may be back on in awhile.

Thanks for all help

Frmrby