no acceleration, lacks power,gotta feather clutch to get goin

[mraaaaaaaaaa]

Hey all, got
a problem, somewhere.

First of all, it is a 78 e, 28,000 miles.

Sat for almost 9 years.

Main problem was a bad regulator/rectifier.

did the carb cleanout.

compression check all around 145

has a 4 into 1 kerker system.

noticed 2 holes drilled out in the filter box--- which is stock air filter.

will not start without startingfluid.

after start, i set the cruise control so that it idles around 2 grand.

afterm warm up have idle set at around 1100, which it holds.

idle jets, 1 bad had 2 push out, now new, are all set to 1 3/4 turns out, seems pretty good

also mercury job on the carb balance (sync)

fluids all changed 3 Xs, and seafoam put into oil, and gas 2 Xs.

idles good, revs good, just feels like something is draggin

changed front and read brekes, calipers, and master cylinders which I got off you guys, all bled, and work good, and release good

removed rear wheel and thoroughly cleaned, and lubed

front gear oil and rear oil are up to the lines, after changing the oil

cant think of anything else, oh, the pods, were cracked, but not leaking, took them off, and cleaned, and made gaskets, and reinstalled

I found a couple of leaks, on the no ! 7 4 pods, gunna take back off, used some rubber to make the gaskets, yesterday went to napa and purchased a sheet of 1/32 regular gasket material, gunna change all of them again


man, this is like writin a book, lol

ok think that is allwhen I go to take off gotta open up the gas halfway then keep jackin the clutch, which is good, till I get it goin fas enough to just hold open the trottle.

1st will get up to about 7 grand after it seems like 10 seconds, then i shift into 2 and open it up again, rpms drop to about 5 gs, then take 2 to about 7 gs, and get po ed, and go into third, and crack the hand grip open again, and hold it there, does about 65


shift int 4, 5 th and it will just about maintain the 65 sOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


What is wrong guys , this scoot should fly !!!


Any and all tips will b appreciated, as, I cannot think of anywhere to start lol

Thanks in advance

Andy B, cleveland, Ohio

[Snow]

I had a very similar problem when I first got Nina on the road - ended up being a pinched fuel line - only two cylinders were firing and it would run alright without a load.

[Ken Talbot]

Do the carb cleanout again. Then probably do the carb cleanout another one or two times after that. If it say for 9 years, probably with gas in the carbs to start, there's probably still lots of deposits throughout the wee orifices and passages.

[Ljay40]

as Ken says dip into the carbs again (not litterally ) dipping not good
pay real close attention to your floats
bye the way what are your spark plugs looking like sounds like
you may be lean or perhaps rich either way your plugs will tell you a lot of whats going on
just a idea to try

[TopCatGr58]

Hey MRaaaaaaaa,

I had to edit your thread "a little", cause there are kids that read this as well!

I'm with Snow, sounds like you're only hitting on 2 cylinders. Having to hold the throttle with the cruise control is not good. Also, only starting with starting fluid is another sign of the float bowl enrichener jets and passage not cleaned out=clogged, so it can't draw fuel up when the choke is on.

You need to determine IF all 4 pipes are hot or not, and depending on which pair are running will lead you to either fuel or electrical/ignition. Keep at it, and once you have it hitting on all 4, you won't want to crank that throttle so far or you'll be flipping it over backwards on you!!
T.C.

[mraaaaaaaaaa]

edit

thanks, was not thinking appropiately, sry !!


andy B,

[mraaaaaaaaaa]

carbs

hmm, hittin on all 4 cylinders, will take off caRBS 2DAY, & CLEAN AGAIN, THANKS,

will let ya know what happens, also will put on new gaskets on

intakes to stop the leaks.

Thanks again

Andy B.

[mraaaaaaaaaa]

carbs again

Hi, thx for the replys,

did the carb cleanout, again,

this time, it started right up,

with the choke, on.

Found 4 clogged areas in the carbs.

3 of them were in the bowels. The side orifice that goes down,

and meete a angled hole.

the 4 th blockage was one of the holes in my 2 body.

And that was the pilot jet.

Stalled out after warm up, set the sync again, messed up

dumb mistake, wondering how the tubes worked on the sync,

and took it off, and naturally,

all the mercury, went bouncing off the floor, lol

so, tried, some gear oil, just kept rising in the tubes,

so, thouroughlt po ed now, disconnected everything, & flung it in the storage shed, lol

checked out j. c. whitney, & they have ones with dials, any1 used these ??

anyway hard stRTING, AGAIN, SO, topday will clean out carbs , again.

Oh, what are the 3 little holes underneath

the butterfly . ??

If I shoot them with carb cleaner, it seems like it just blows back out.

is ther a restriction some wherre, and where should the cleaner come

out of when I spray them ??

Well, thats it fer now, will keep ya informed on my progress, Thanks again for the replys !!

[audijunky]

The three hole above the butterfly are for your low rpm/idle cicuit. If you remove your float bowls,main jet and pilot jet, you should be able to squirt carb cleaner into the pilot jet hole and it should come out these three holes. I would suggest following the carb cleaning tech tip go here Follow it word for word.If you do this it should take care of any carb problems. Have you checked the header pipes to see if one or more are cooler than the others? spray some water on them after its been running a minute. You can see the difference in the way the water sizzles if one cylinder is not firing
Good luck

[John]

The three holes just above the butterflies are a part of the pilot circuit. They meter the fuel during low speed operation. The pilot screws are basically to adjust the idle mixture. With the pilot jet removed, you should be able to spray carb cleaner into the hole that held the pilot jet, and it should spray out of those three holes. It may also spray out of the air jet in the carb inlet, that feeds the pilot curcuit, so you'll need to block it off with your finger. If you don't get any spray through the holes you'll need to get some fine copper wire and penetrate the holes to clean them out. If you have some compressed air available, then that may be needed to clear the pilot circuit out.
The 4 gauge set from JC Whitney is what I am using for carb syncing. They work fine, and all you want to do is get all four cylinders drawing the same amount of vacuum.

[fredintoon]

Dip is OK but not for long

Hi Andy,
take every rubber thing and every jet out of the carb body and soak for not more than 4 hours. (Unless you have the patience of a Saint and the skills of a watchmaker you can't get the butterfly shaft seals out but protected as they are, a 4 hour soak won't irretrievably harm them) Wash the dip off with water, blow dry, squirt carb cleaner through every hole and see it come out of every other hole, blow dry again & reassemble. I fought my iggy for a week 2 seasons ago but only cleaning #4 carb made it run right. This spring I triple-cleaned all 4 but it took 4 new sparkplugs to do the trick this time.
Fred Hill, S'toon.

[mraaaaaaaaaa]

carbs

gottem

everything squirts fine,

even the 3 holes under the butterfly

duh, no 2,3,4, idle adjut screws were busted off

sogrinded down the inside of the carb,

got all 3 out.
put my good 1 in each hole,

abd found out that all 3 were 1/4 turn to tight.

so, put in the screws to where they bottemed out

and then backed all 3 out 1/4 turn.

reassembled everything.
choked it, cranked right over

Soooo, now i needto re sync everything again

but , no syncro, lol

goin to jc whitney and purchase those dial syncros after I finish

this. Another thing I noticed, was this beast eat electrons,

moreso than gas, lol

gettin tired of chargin my new battery every 3/4 of an hour or so.

comes from not enough rpm s to boost up da chargin voltage.

gotta goorder the sync meters, TC all, Thanks again for the replys

And keep da back rubber down, LTR !!!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Andy,

Before you go ordering that gauge set, you can get replacement mercury for your sticks. A member recently did this, a quick search should reveal the thread, and his source for it!! NOW that you know what NOT to do, you shouldn't have to worry about loosing it again!

At idle, the charging system should have at least kept the bike running and not necessarily discharged the battery! It should crank out about 12.5 volts at idle, but up to 14.5 at 2500+ rpm.

You might want to check your charging system. You can also get a heavy duty Reg/Rect from Geezer that provides a stronger low rpm current. Check the For Sale Forum, member's items!
T.C.

[mraaaaaaaaaa]

carbs syncro

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr,

LOL, just ordered sync from JC Whitney

was checkin out my em s for the order, & noticed Your post for the

mercury, Oh well, thats what I get for being in a hurry

Thanks for the try though. Oh, did buy sumthing else from them to get the free shipping.

They have this carb screw adjuster that is curved, and when you have it on the slot of the screw, you turn something ,

looks pretty kool for $24.95.

REALLY A blanky blank blank to get to those screws, lol !! I will check into the mercury though


A shame to waste it worked VERY good, even with the 3 busted

mixture screws, lol

So, thanks for the help !!!!
Will let ya know when I mess something up again, LOL

SO, tC all, & keep da back rubber down, Later

[mraaaaaaaaaa]

carb syncronizer

Hi all,

Being the impatient person that iam,

encountered someting interresting today !!

If any1 has a Mighty might brake bleeder,

You can use the dial guage as a syncro, it takes a little longer

switching the guage on all four vacuum sync points on the carb holders, but, I now have mine running VERY smooth, and no hesitation, at all !!

Just a thought, Ill let You all know when I get My new syncro

from J C Whitney how close it is to being properly synced !!


TC All, & keep da back rubber down !!!

LATER