oil cooler results #2

[DiverRay]

The PH3950 is 3.09" tall, 3.66" diam. 12 PSI relief valve setting, anti drain back valve, and 20mm X 1.5mm center.
This is from the Fram site.

[TopCatGr58]

DiverRay and Chop,

The "other" Fram filter is the same height as the 6017, it's just wider!

Okay, if you'll look closely at this photo, I'll describe some of the trouble!


The OEM chamber and filter sits down inside the chamber because that center section that the OEM filter bolt screws into sticks out 0.67" from the plane of the chamber mating surface. ALSO, that little curved section beside the center mounting sticks out about 0.35" from the plane, and finally, the #1 Case Bolt head sticks out about 0.20" from the contact plane, so there are essentially 3 recesses to allow for in a design the spins on/up into place as well as just slide up and is bolted into place!

The oil flow is how it was previously described, from that big 0.50" diameter hole in the back edge of the engine case which comes directly from the oil pump, down into the filter chamber area, thru the filter and into the central tube and up into the engine.

Chop, sorry, I've been a little busy past couple of days, haven't sent you the dimension drawings yet!

The problem with trying to use a NUT to secure the adapter plate so it could just slide up and not spin into position results in a much wider than the 2" diameter spacing of the oil supply to filter holes that the smaller diameter filter needs. The RIVCO one for the 1985 IIRC and later V4(Vmax engine) Venturer that I linked to in the tech tip uses this style of mounting, they have a fancy mounting pipe/nut combination, but it has to use a larger wider auto oil filter, but as DiverRay stated, has relief valve, same mounting sizes. But it is a bit deeper/taller than the one I make at just around 1.15" thick.

The Cooler adapter plate is about 1" thick, so you still have about 2.25" worth of material before putting on the filter. The OEM filter housing is about 3" deep/thick, so you will have about 2.25" of filter sticking out/down below the OEM filter housing IF you don't have the cooler plate on now!

The problem with my slim design is that it Spins up threading onto the filter mounting threaded pipe, that eliminates the larger/wider securing nut, but because the plate spins up, you can't necessarily determine where the cooler in/output lines would be or line up?

It's very late here, I'm tired, so I'll have to continue this discussion later!
T.C.

[red bandit]

Make the through hole on the adapter plate, a through hole that slides over the threaded stud, put a nut on that, spin the filter on.

[xschop]

good morning

Thanks T.C. for answering my questions before I even asked. 1 more question, In the above pic, Is that the factory oil tube/filter bolt? if so, what's the length from where it exits the case? (curious if my design will just use the factory bolt), If not, how long are your custom bolts?.... the design I drew up can take a lower securing nut because of the return chamber....I just have to get the right oil tube/bolt....Thanks and get some beauty rest

[xschop]

Sorry

I honestly haven't had my coffe yet. The bolt is definitely not stock....It is m20x 1.5 , true? I have thought it over and since I am putting a thru hole anyways (allow oil line positioning), I will beef up the crush nut area (cone shape the upper chamber) and will not cut an O-Ring channel....

[xschop]

this will work

Blue is the locknut (BTW the s/a pivot locknut would work)you think 3/8" in/out ports will suffice? I did'nt want to mess with checking/removing connections on mine (easier to ask).With the magic question answered, the whole unit thickness would be 1.5 inches...whatcha think?

[81xsproject]

Awesome

[wingnut]

Outlet port

Might suggest that you make the outlet port 3/8 inch fitting and the inlet to the fliter side 1/2 inch. Helps the flow rate thru the cooler.

[xschop]

flow

if Hobbyman's calcs are good, the return oil in 20 deg. lower. I was also wondering if the viscosity increases by much after the cooler....hmmm....just from looks, it seems the Lockhart lines are both the same 3/8".....good point

[xschop]

Last Measurement needed

Hey T.C. Do you know this measurement. The last ???? and I can knock one of these out...chop

[TopCatGr58]

Chop,

That space is ~1.22"...allow 1.25", but realize that it is slightly tapered wider towards the engine, and just .30" towards the engine is that next hump and the total width from the lower threaded housing to the edge of that hump is 1.75"...realize that is an eccentric measurement, not a centered measurement...I allow about 2.25" total diameter at that location for the spinning action of positioning the SOFA up into position, but if your design is just sliding up, then you can only cut out the space for that odd protrusion, and don't forget the ~.15" for the #1 case bolt head!!
T.C.

[planedick]

Odd protrusion..

That protrusion is for the rubber washer around the filter to sit against. What the spring pushes it against and the same protrusion is necessary in the SOFA modification sticking down into the the upper part for the spin on to fit against.

[xschop]

Thanks T.C.

My final design will be just like above, except with the stock O-RING groove cut into it.....If the case bolt happens to hit, I will just dish it out more on the lathe, no biggie. Thanks for all your help and the bolt too! The metal supply is proud of their billet, huh?

[xschop]

yes and no

TC'S SOFA eliminates the need for all that setup because of the tight junction between oil bolt and SOFA threads.....mine may need a rubber washer or a dab of high temp Si around that threaded area before the lockbolt.....

[xschop]

thanks TC, got the bolt

Now I would have paid extra for a pre-drilled one. seriously, what size hole did you put thru it? And where did you get the locknuts from? I just went to ace hardware and no-go. I will check Fastenal tomorrow.....chop