Testing my coils - Need help

[skids]

Please forgive me if I am too basic with the following. You have propably considered ALL of this already:

1.) Zen, if your pipes/baffles are shot, the plug colors are going to give you misleading results. However, it is a good idea to look at the plugs, replace them with new, color the new ones and look again.
There is some sore of reverse pulse resonance (echo?) the occurs, with bad exhaust systems, at certain matching rpms that destroys the "scavenging" of exhaust from the combustion chamber. This can cause very hot running at certain rpms and can foul plugs at other rpms. This caused bad "running compression" and you simply can't catch the affect with a regular compression test.

2.) If your pickup coil wires are bad, the wire's insulation at higher temperatures might be "relaxing" and you will be dropping 2 cylinders if the wires are broken. Take off the left case cover, run the bike, and manually move the advance plate to see if she cuts out completely.
You can also try a quick thing where you pull the vacuum hose from the No. 2 carb, plug the nipple, and run the bike to see if the prevention of motion of the timing plate stops the problem. If it does, it is indicative of a coil wire problem. This is a quick and dirty test...very easy to do.

3.) Your fuel delivery might be deficient. Did you try running the bike on prime to see if the vacuum control (octopus on special or petcock on standard) is messing up? Did you check inline fuel filter? Did you try running with the gas cap ajar? The tower filters on the petcocks may be plugged.

4.) Carbs. There are some tiny inlet screens on the fuel valves that can get clogged. This can slow down the fuel rate and will result in the bike idling fine (once the bowls are full) but can cause the bike to cut out at speed.

I really think that your bike is suffering from fuel starvation from the sound of it. But I would have to tinker with it :-)

[Zen Dragon]

OK.
here is the latest.

I am checking the pickup coils.
one has already been fixed once. (the red)
I found that if I pull on the blue (same side as the red) it does the hourglass deal.
I cut the hourglass and sure enough it is broken inside.

Now here is the question - - -

I looks like if i just repair the wire it will be stretched tight.

What kind of wire do I need?
I would like to put a little piece in there to make a little more room.

Also what kind of solder do i need?

I hope this will fix it.

Thanks again for all the help.

[Dragonrider]

Test lead wire. The wire they use for test leads on a multimeter. Get it at Fry's or some such electronics store. Nice and flexible. "Radio solder" (flux core) and solder 'em up. Then paint the connections with "liwuid electrical tape" . . . several coats.

[Zen Dragon]

Update.

Well got the wire back together (just waiting for a frined to bring over the solder and gun)

Bike still wont start.

Gotta let the battery charge - its almost dead after all this time trying to start it.

I have taken off the tank.
Gas poors just great through the petcocks in each position (except off) - But i will take them out and check the filter once all the gas drains out.

I took out the spark plugs.
they look ok, not too dark, but yet not bright either.

I got confused when trying to check out the octopus that the gas flows through, but it still wouldnt start when it was on PRI either.

Looks like i am going to have to take off the carbs.

I dont have a book yet.
Can anyone tell me how to take them off and check them out (pray i dont F*** them up)

Thanks.

[Mike Hart]

The octopus is pretty easy to test - see Diaphragm Assembly (Octopus) Testing and Fuel Hose Routing Diagram.

Did you read thru Troubleshooting a bike that will crank but won't start for more ideas?

First thing, gotta have a good battery. If it won't catch at all, it's more likely spark or gas, but could be air too. Read up a bit in the Carburetor sections of the tech forums before you tear the carbs off. Just take your time with them and don't force anything. Use screwdrivers with good bits that fit what you're trying to unscrew really well.

[crunchbird]

Wait! Wait for the charged battery! You'll have those carbs off soon enough, and turn 'em into the Sweet Adelines, but I'll bet she fires with a good battery. There's no reason it shouldn't run as well as it did before the PU failed.

You can jump from a good battery if you just can't wait for the trickle charger. Don't have the other vehicle running, though.

[Bill__Woods]

Hello,
I have not had it happen to me, but have heard it a few times on the old xs mailing list. If the gas cap is not ventingit will cause a fuel starvation problem. Next time leave the fuel level low and the cap unlatched. Someone else had this problem, chime in with more details if you got them.
good luck!

[Zen Dragon]

well good news and bad news.

Good news.
After fixing the pickup coil wire the bike started right up.

I drove her about for a while and all seemed ok.
then (seems like after it got hot) things started in again.
it boggs down and then dies.
once it dies it wont start again unless I Choke it. and then it dies if I try to drive with it.

mabey some gummed up carbs?
What do you all think?

Thanks again.

[strom]

Fried coil? Is the bike running OK if it's cold?

LP

[Ken Talbot]

You managed to get it to fire up and run okay for a short bit, so I think we can say the electrics are okay. Then, it bogged and died, until you choked it. Sure sounds like fuel starvation to me now. If you are sure the octopus is passing fuel properly and you've got no kinked lines, the next place to look is the fine mesh screen above the float-operated needle valve. If you haven't had the carbs off yet, and if there's ever been any amount of anything foreign in the tank, the screens are probably plugged. They may allow the float bowls to fill while sitting, but then not allow enough fuel through while running at speed to keep the bowl level up. When it dies, have you had any luck re-starting if you let it sit for a while?

[Dragonrider]

Also check for kinked fuel line (may only kink when hot) and plugged tank vent!

[strom]

Originally posted by Dragonrider
Also check for kinked fuel line (may only kink when hot) and plugged tank vent!

How do you unplug one of those? Just put a compresson on and blow the stuff out (or till the tank explodes)?

LP

[Dragonrider]

The specials are in the cap only, little orifice can be pinned or drilled out.

The standards I think have a tube yes? Correct me if I am wrong . . . but make sure the rubber line is not clogged or pinched, and if the metal one in the tank is plugged . . . maybe a piece of wire?

[Zen Dragon]

I just went out and got a clymers.

I am going to take a look at the octopus valve tonight wen i get home and see if it is working ok.

If after that I think I will pay a shop to clean the carbs and sync them for me. (little scared to mess with the carbs myself)

[Zen Dragon]

Yeah. It work fine when cold so far.