Electrical assembly

[jetmechmarty]

Dean,

As pointed out in the video, you can use that tool for insulated connectors, but the insulation may suffer damage as a result.

Take your cheap do-it-all tool and put it in your tank bag along with a little baggie with terminals and splices in it. Those kind of repairs will certainly get you home. A test light is nice to have as well.

[XJOK2PLAY]

Hey Marty,
I remember that happening to you that morning, as well.
At the time, I didn't know what had happened to your bike, and before I knew it... you had it fixed.

To quote a guy I always respected...
"and now you know... the rest of the story."

Pretty funny stuff, Billy!

Cool tools! Have any links?

[DeanR]

Assuming that some expensive crimper type is required for these?

[IanDMacDonald]

Nope, open barrel crimper.

[jetmechmarty]

The barrel crimper die is available in my link in the first post.

[DeanR]

So my pictured Thomas & Betts tool won't work on these, and I need another tool?

[James England]

Personally, I would avoid solder. It's not really necessary if the crimping is done properly and the wire doesn't take solder well, I found. Somebody mentioned that it increases the resistance of the wires too?

[IanDMacDonald]

So my pictured Thomas & Betts tool won't work on these, and I need another tool?

No, your tool will not work. Yes, you need another tool.

[CaptonZap]

Just to provoke some thought, you might, if you subscribe to the solder is bad "crowd think", make sure to pot the freshly bared ends of the wire in silicone dielectric grease before you crimp the terminals on.
Yes, it is a dielectric, and does not enhance the conductivity of the wire/terminal joint.
No, it will not decrease the resistance of the joint.
Yes, it does retard corrosion at said joint, which is what it was designed to do. And since there is no solder beteen the individual strands of the wire in a crimped joint, moist air can perneate the spaces, and start the corrosion process. Soldering fills those spaces and prevents the corrosion. Unfortunateely, the flux wicked up in the un solderd portion of the wire, unless throughly cleaned out, will, since its purpose is to break down the oxide layer on the metal, continue to allow moist air to contact the exposed surfaces, producing corrosion. Which eventually leads to joint failure.

The conductivity of the joint depends on the surface area of the contact between the wire and the connector. The tighter you can squeeze it, the more you deform the two metals , forcing them into more intimate contact with each other, thus enhancing the area of contact.
If you were really serious, you could swage them into a solid chunk, thus eliminating all air from the junction and avoiding any corrosion at that point. Which is why the joints in TC's dryer were crimped with a factory tool which made the connection one solid piece of metal, reducing the amount of oxidization taking place at elevated temperatures. Eventually, the corrosion and heat induced expansion and contraction caused the WIRE to fail, not the joint.
Anyway, food for thought, and grist for the forum.

CZ

[jetmechmarty]

CZ,

I'm going to strongly disagree with you on this. Keep the grease out of the connection. Do it right, do it once!

An issue with solder connections is the tendency of the solder to wick up under the wire insulation. Eventually, what you get are broken wires.

At the end of the day, you can do it any way you want. I'm just putting the info out there for those of you who care to use it.

[CaptonZap]

Well Marty, to prolong the agony, I was going to post a long descriptive comparison of the two methods, but found a site that pretty much lays it out, and covers most of the points I was going to make.
http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/060801_01.asp
And AC 43.13 makes numerous references to checking soldered connections, so that would imply that soldered connections are used in aircraft work. I know for a fact that they are common in avionics wiring.
As in every other process, execution is the key to success or failure. And a proper installation will have a mechanical support for the wire/ bundle close to the connectors to prevent any flexing of the crimped or soldered joint. That, in my opinion, is the way to prevent failure of either type of joint.
And for either camp to claim to have the only proper method is sort of like the Priest telling the Rabbi that it is OK to eat pork on any day but Friday.

CZ

[jetmechmarty]

http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/060801_01.asp
And AC 43.13 makes numerous references to checking soldered connections, so that would imply that soldered connections are used in aircraft work. I know for a fact that they are common in avionics wiring.

CZ

The link didn't work. Yes, soldered connections are used in airplanes, but less and less. The black boxes are full of solder connections, of course. The last time a soldered wires into pins in a connector, it was probably a B727 and those are becoming extinct.

[IanDMacDonald]

My co-worker was in the Navy for 20 years as an avionics electrician. He said soldering is pretty much extinct . . .

[CaptonZap]

Try this,

http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/060801_02.asp

I think the main reason for the switch to solder less is because the average mech doesn't have the talent to do a good solder job, and the company would rather buy the crimper and not have to deal with the cold joints and other malady's of soldering. And crimping might be a bit faster.
So do what your boss tells you to do, and be happy.

CZ

[jetmechmarty]

Try this,

http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/060801_02.asp

I think the main reason for the switch to solder less is because the average mech doesn't have the talent to do a good solder job, and the company would rather buy the crimper and not have to deal with the cold joints and other malady's of soldering. And crimping might be a bit faster.
So do what your boss tells you to do, and be happy.

CZ

That's a good link, and I'll stick with the maintenance manual and ignore the boss if he says otherwise. The wiring on the XS1100 was all crimped. The connectors are all open barrel crimps. Mike's XS used to sell an open barrel crimper for cheap. The Pro's Kit frame and required dies might be the best deal for delivering quality wiring connections.