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  • #46
    Originally posted by DEEBS11 View Post
    It is imperative that this is set correctly. You retard the timing to kick start the bike. Any deviation (usually too much advance) and it can kick back and break your leg.
    Add in higher compression and the orthopedic surgeons stay busy, hence the XLCH (Extra Large Charlie Horse)

    1980 XS1100G

    I identify as a man but according to the label on a package of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four!

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    • #47
      The Indian distributor.

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      • #48
        Deebs, which oil would you use for breaking in one of our motors? Just did a ball hone with new rings. I usually run conventional 20W50 because of the hot weather down here.
        2H7 (79)
        3H3

        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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        • #49
          I use conventional oil for break in. No prolonged highway miles. Back roads with variable loads on the motor for about 500 miles. That seems to work best.

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          • #50
            All right, thank you.
            2H7 (79)
            3H3

            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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            • #51
              How about on initial start up, run at what RPM and for how long? Thanks
              2H7 (79)
              3H3

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

              Comment


              • #52
                I don't usually do anything out of the ordinary. I will start the motor and run it for about 45 seconds to make sure it runs and the oil pressure light goes off with no unusual noises. Then swing a leg over the bike and ride it out on a level road if possible to keep the load on the motor medium. Get it up to temperature and put about 50 easy going miles on it varying RPMs a little over and under the 3000 range. Bring it home and let it cool overnight. Re-torque the head in the morning. Check for leaks.

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                • #53
                  Got a 6 speed manual transmission from a 2003 CLK that I'm going to drop into my 1987 Mercedes 190D Turbo. Have the pedal box, master cylinder, some hoses/lines, etc all ready to go. Need to find an actual shifter, then I can finally be free of that blasted 4 speed slushbox.

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                  • #54
                    Some old bike still use points and condenser. The quality of cheap Chinese condensers can leave you on the side of the road. It has happened to me twice in the past 30 years. Once on the Indian and once on the BMW. I now use Thorcaps which is virtually a lifetime capacitor/condenser. This is how I hollow them out to hide the guts and then fill with JB Weld. This can be used for 100 point restorations on Indians or Harleys. BTW just about all condensers on any motor is 22uf (22 Micro Farads). This will even work on an old lawn mower.


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                    Last edited by DEEBS11; 07-26-2024, 02:53 AM.

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                    • #55
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                      • #56
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                        • #57
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                          • #58
                            Will be riding her to the AMCA meet today in Greenfield.


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                            • #59
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                              How two decrepit old buggers get a heavy motorcycle off the back of a half-ton without breaking a sweat. 1984 Honda V45 VFR750S found on Facebook Marketplace about 1.5 hrs away. Neglected for many
                              years needing not only TLC but levers, battery, r side cover, r mirror, straightened/repaired signals, and seat recovered. (Bless the Lord and/or AL Gore for the interweb and on-line shopping) My research
                              uncovered the fact that as of '84 due to heavy import tariffs placed on bikes over 700cc into the US, this particular model was unavailable south of the 49th and appeared as a VFR700s. This is making it
                              interesting to find parts but appears mostly similar to an '83. Despite deficiencies, it's mostly there compared to some of the basket cases (literally in baskets) I've helped rise from the ashes in the past. Not seized up
                              as it spun over when jumped. Going out today to get 5 gallons (18 L) of vinegar to help get rid of the rust in the tank. Like a kid at Christmas - blinded by solid mags (not comstars),
                              mono-shock rear suspension, shaft drive, 6 spd trans, anti-dive front end, built-in fork brace, 4 valves/cylinder and a 10K redline. Getting used to the flames on the tank and tail - not a big fan at first but it
                              appears professionally or at least well painted and not easy to remove without a complete re-paint (not in the budget). Any insights as to what to watch for on a Honda V4
                              welcome. Who says I'm not up for a challenge?
                              1980 XS1100G (one owner-me)
                              1983 Kawasaki GPZ750 (Frankenbike)
                              1984 Honda VFR750S
                              Owned - 1976 XS750D
                              Owned - 1972 Honda CB750
                              Owned - (unknown year) XS650
                              (+ too many Yammies/Hondas to mention)

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                              • #60
                                Those can be picked up for a song, I've often considered getting one for that exact reason. The only issue I've heard of on those was premature cam wear and failure due to the manufacturing technique used to manufacture them along with a design flaw. The cam was designed in the same way a two valve engine is with one lobe opening/closing one valve. In the four valve engine each cam lobe opens and closes two valves putting a lot more pressure on the cam which contributes to early failure. Needless to say that makes good used cams more difficult to come by and sending folks into the aftermarket for replacements.
                                ​​​​
                                1980 XS1100G

                                I identify as a man but according to the label on a package of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four!

                                Comment

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