What's going on in the garage?

[oldyam80sg]

I bought my Mom a Cub Cadet tractor years ago. Lots of sensors and a pain to put into reverse. You had to put it into neutrel, lift up the deck,push the button and then into reverse. Sold it to a guy who bought his 1st house and had 2 acres of flat land. My Mom only drove it once and likes her push mower. Bought it at a Home Depot.

[DEEBS11]

OY8, there is a wire that you can disconnect or switch you can buy to deactivate the "Blades Off in Reverse" feature. I guess there were customers that would not look back when they went in reverse while cutting and ran over kids or dogs which treated them to a unwanted hair cut.

[oldyam80sg]

Thought so. I looked into that but my Mother didnt use it and my younger brother bought a new storage shed and didnt want it in there so we sold the mower. I sold it for more than I bought it.

[oldyam80sg]

This is also in my storage unit besides the Yamaha. Storage unit is 1/4 mile from my apartment.

[DEEBS11]

That's a nice Kwacker.

[oldyam80sg]

Ran last summer but not good- sent out the carbs to be cleaned as I tried several times. Initial run yesterday and so far so good.

[bikerphil]

Hey DEEBS, do you have any tips on lapping valves? I need to do an 82 XJ head in the near future.

[DEEBS11]

I use Cloverleaf that comes in a dual cover can. Coarse and fine. I almost never use the coarse. I always use my finger tips to lap the valve. No tool because I need to "feel" the grinding surface. Lube the valve stem in the guide but do not let any grit touch this area. Turn it back and forth and pull the valve out slightly and push it back in a different rotating spot over and over. Wipe it all off with a rag (that must never be used again because of the grit) soaked in a little bit of gasoline and check the ring. it should be smooth and even. When it's done correctly you can drop the valve in it's guide and hear a distinct metal to metal "TINK".

When the head is clean, lubed and re-assembled with new seals, you can pour gasoline in the ports and let it sit for about a half hour to see it there are any leaks. If you let it sit for too long (like over night) you will see some wetness but that is still a good seal. Only a true machine shop valve job will produce no wetness overnight.

The picture I posted is off of the internet. He should cut those nails or at least paint them with nail polish. However, nice job on a clean ring. That will seal nicely.

[DEEBS11]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/37261938505...Bk9SR5yl7ObuYw

[bikerphil]

Thank you, I'll give it a shot.

[DEEBS11]

Indian work today. Check the points (remember those?) & re-time the distributor.

[DEEBS11]

Advance timing mark is a "$". Indian called it "Right On The Money". Hook a 6 volt timing light across the coil and advance the right hand grip control (left is throttle control) until the light just turns off. It is imperative that this is set correctly. You retard the timing to kick start the bike. Any deviation (usually too much advance) and it can kick back and break your leg. I know a guy with a poorly timed Norton that lost a riding season due incorrect timing. Mechanics that time bikes by "ear" are hacks.

[DEEBS11]

Replacing front bearings. Haven't checked these since 1991. It's time.

[DEEBS11]

In that wheel schematic you can see part 7-8. They are individual rollers. You must measure the play between the axle and bearing. I keep an assortment. This year it going to be .250".

[DEEBS11]

Drum brake looks good. Ready for bearing. This bearing is more conventional. Need to replace the seals and felts.