Yamaha XJR1300

[crazy steve]

Look at the frame and brakes and all the other controls. SAME_SAME

Lots of differences; shaft drive (FJR) vs chain (XJR), water vs air cooling, and the biggy, a hundred pounds more weight...

[James England]

Look at the frame and brakes and all the other controls. SAME_SAME

Whilst they are both nice bikes, there are many very significant differences and I wouldn't say they are at all the same, or even similar, bikes. The frames aren't at all the same. The FJR has monoshock rear suspension, different swinging arm, water-cooled engine, very different wheels, shaft drive, full fairing, generally more 'civilised' styling and less 'attitude' (I would say). Although much better for a long tour because of the protection side of things.

I think the thing here is that it's apparent that both bikes are from the same stable, to mix metaphors. The styling is similar but not identical of course. No doubt the controls are similar, if not identical, but that's very common with all Japanese manufacturers...they've always used similar controls between models, presumably for efficiency.

Basically, we're talking comparing a faired, water-cooled, monoshock, shaft drive 1200 four cylinder with a naked, air-cooled, traditional rear shockers, chain drive 1250cc. It's not quite a valid comparison. I don't know what the performance figures are for the FJR1200 but I'd suspect that, given the shaft drive and the fairing, it would be slower on 0-60, standing quarter mile and perhaps top speed. It would be interesting to see if anyone can find those figures....

[b.walker5]

Hi James, I spent a few hours today removing my timing plate, slotting the bolt holes, marking the plate with a degree wheel and refitting with 4 degrees of advance. (too tight to buy a new one) What a difference... Starts better, Runs smoother, More responsive on the throttle and hopefully better fuel economy. Still havent looked at the intakes, thats next weekends project.

BTW, forgot to mention that I altered the stator plate, not the rotor.

[James England]

Hi James, I spent a few hours today removing my timing plate, slotting the bolt holes, marking the plate with a degree wheel and refitting with 4 degrees of advance. (too tight to buy a new one) What a difference... Starts better, Runs smoother, More responsive on the throttle and hopefully better fuel economy. Still havent looked at the intakes, thats next weekends project.

BTW, forgot to mention that I altered the stator plate, not the rotor.

That's a good idea re the stator mod. If it accomplishes the same thing, and for free, even better!

Did I mention a few other easy mods which make a big difference?

1. Remove the 'rain cover' on the air filter intake under the right side panel and don't use it again. Rain doesn't get in anyway and I've run my bike in torrential rain with no problems.

2. Remove all except 1cm of the snorkel on the inside of the airbox. This snorkel runs through a rubber grommeted hole in the air filter itself and then is so long that it almost touches the other side of the filter! Cut it off, leaving only a 1cm (approx) stump which will still engage with the air filter grommet when the air filter box side is put back on.

1 and 2 above allow for free a vastly better airflow through the filter box (like cutting the snorkel on an XS1100) by reducing turbulence etc.

3. If you have some spare cash (saved by not buying a timing plate ), then buy a K&N freeflow air filter. They are washable and last one million miles. They save money in the long run and they give a far better airflow into the engine than the OEM ones.

4. Replace the main jets and needles, and pilot jets with Stage 1 Dynojet Kit (if you have the OEM exhaust) or Stage 2 (if you have an after-market exhaust). The OEM carb setup is a compromise for sending the bikes worldwide (like the 4 degree retarded ignition). It's virtually 100% certain that your needles and jets are not the best for the bike's performance where you live.

5. Fit Iridium spark plugs

6. Check those inlet manifolds. If they are restricted, replace them with FJ1100/1200 manifolds. This may necessitate the use of spacers, because the FJ ones are 1cm shorter and this affects some models of XJR. Or, you can elongate the holes in the mounting lugs for the entire airbox and move it forward 1cm. This means the carbs themselves and the airbox all move closer to the engine. There is enough space but it will affect the looks of the bike slightly. I had spacers made from billet aluminium, with grooves for O rings for about $130.... a bit expensive but they do look good and make things easy to install.

The above mods are all reversible. On my bike, I did them one at a time and checked that everything was OK each time. They all ran first time with no problems. The effect on the bike is immense. I did Mod 6 last and it made a final big difference. I've done 1500 miles with the above mods with no problems at all. Apart from changing my OEM exhaust and going for a Stage 2 kit, there's little else I can do to the bike. I really don't see the need to either really, as it's really as fast as I would want.....

[Mathh]

I don't know what the performance figures are for the FJR1200 but I'd suspect that, given the shaft drive and the fairing, it would be slower on 0-60, standing quarter mile and perhaps top speed. It would be interesting to see if anyone can find those figures....

no way slower ... i'm now buying my second FJR1300 and I had rides on all three of the ones above. The standard XS and XJR are very similar in horsepower and torque numbers (yup, even with a 20+ years difference). The FJR has 145 horsepower @ 8000 rpm (125 rear wheel hp) and 99.1 lbf·ft of torque @ 7000 rpm.
Acceleration: 0 - 60mph 3.2
Acceleration: 0 - 100mph 7.2
Acceleration: 0 - 130mph 13.2
Braking: 100 - 0mph 4.7
Top gear: 60 - 90mph 4.95
Top gear: 80 - 120mph 7.45
Top speed (mph): 154
Dry weight: 521
MPG best/worst: 37/29
It should do the 1/4 mile in 10.68 seconds
This could be a beast of a naked bike but in fact it is a cruiser that is faster than most naked bikes.. and i love it.

[James England]

The standard XS and XJR are very similar in horsepower and torque numbers (yup, even with a 20+ years difference). .

Well, that may be the case... 105bhp v 98bhp or so but, even without the mods I did to the XJR, there really was no comparison between it and my XS1100. I found a big difference in performance. With the mods done, it's even more pronounced. The XS11's are lovely bikes but there really is no comparison in performance. The XJR is comparable to my XS11 on nitrous, I reckon.

Interesting re the FJR1300 figures though. Naked, like you say, it would no doubt be even faster....

I like the sound of this

Transmission

The FJR1300 uses a five-speed manual gearbox with close ratio gears. Final drive is via shaft, encased within the swingarm, which has monoshock suspension with remote quick-set two position adjustable pre-load.

The FJR1300AE/AS model features an electronic clutch, which Yamaha calls YCC-S. There is no clutch lever on this model. Instead, the YCC-S system allows the rider to shift using a set of manually operated push buttons on the left handlebar or via the standard gear shift lever. The electronic clutch is efficiently controlled by an internal computer, allowing gear shifts to complete in approximately 0.2 seconds. The gearbox pattern is also unconventional in that neutral is at the bottom end of the range, otherwise the gearbox is identical to the A model. The ECU automatically controls the electronic clutch and ignition timing to ensure smooth gear shifting and will actuate the clutch at standstill. Stalling the engine is not normally possible.

[BA80]

Although the electonic clutch seems attracive it has met with a few problems. FJR riders prefer the standard clutch setup as far as I can see.

[Mathh]

Well, that may be the case... 105bhp v 98bhp or so but, even without the mods I did to the XJR, there really was no comparison between it and my XS1100. I found a big difference in performance. With the mods done, it's even more pronounced. The XS11's are lovely bikes but there really is no comparison in performance. The XJR is comparable to my XS11 on nitrous, I reckon.

Interesting re the FJR1300 figures though. Naked, like you say, it would no doubt be even faster....

I like the sound of this

Transmission

The FJR1300 uses a five-speed manual gearbox with close ratio gears. Final drive is via shaft, encased within the swingarm, which has monoshock suspension with remote quick-set two position adjustable pre-load.

The FJR1300AE/AS model features an electronic clutch, which Yamaha calls YCC-S. There is no clutch lever on this model. Instead, the YCC-S system allows the rider to shift using a set of manually operated push buttons on the left handlebar or via the standard gear shift lever. The electronic clutch is efficiently controlled by an internal computer, allowing gear shifts to complete in approximately 0.2 seconds. The gearbox pattern is also unconventional in that neutral is at the bottom end of the range, otherwise the gearbox is identical to the A model. The ECU automatically controls the electronic clutch and ignition timing to ensure smooth gear shifting and will actuate the clutch at standstill. Stalling the engine is not normally possible.

You're right of course about the XJR being superior to the XS. I was just making fun of the fact that on paper they're almost equal after all that time .

Interesting you mention the FJR AS version. You'll instantly grow a liking to it when you take it for a testride. But once you get accustomed to it you'll start missing the clutch (at least that's what I did).
For instance it will be impossible to make a brutal launch from a traffic light (using the clutch): it will take off in a docile manner (although very quick).
Other joys like drawing a black line with your rear tire or making a burn out (you need your clutch for both these things) will belong to the past. But then, it will perform perfectly for all normal people

But it's clear most people don't want the AS as the used ones drop in price quickly overhere.

[James England]

For instance it will be impossible to make a brutal launch from a traffic light (using the clutch): it will take off in a docile manner (although very quick).

Oh, I don't like the sound of that. I don't do donuts and wheelies but I think a conventional clutch is probably best then. It did occur to me that a problem with the fancy clutch might prove difficult to solve.

[DGXSER]

Oh, I don't like the sound of that. I don't do donuts and wheelies but I think a conventional clutch is probably best then. It did occur to me that a problem with the fancy clutch might prove difficult to solve.

That was my first thought, being a huge fan of the KISS method (Keep It Simple Stupid), I saw that as a system for people lazy people with way to much money to spend. Buying it, and repairing it, cause it is bound to be problematic over time.

[James England]

That was my first thought, being a huge fan of the KISS method (Keep It Simple Stupid), I saw that as a system for people lazy people with way to much money to spend. Buying it, and repairing it, cause it is bound to be problematic over time.

Or perhaps people with a fascination for gadgetry. It has all the hallmarks of trouble in the future! I can imagine the Unobtanium Factor kicking in too, at some point, just to make things even more difficult. I'll stick to the XJR. I was out on it today and I prefer its looks to the FJR.... slightly on the 'bad' side and 'hooliganesque' but somehow refined at the same time.

[FJ111200]

Talking of XJR's. Mine are 1200's.
This first one is still in project form, single seater affair.
You might have seen them on the XJR forum, the second picture has been on here before, i think.