Any chain drive bike owners?

[Montreux_Blue]

I have seen those automatic oilers before but I think I can keep up with it for now. What about some heavy gear oil? That is what I was going to use since I have some left over from the last time I freshened up the final and middle drives and it is very thick.

[jmnjrpa]

Can't think of the name right now but there is an industrial chain lube that comes in a spray can. It sticks like cosmoline and won't sling off. It will also run for extended periods at high speeds (we're talking 24/7). Those auto oilers leave a mess on the bike and driveway.

[79XS11F]

My chain drive bike is an xs11 conversion so I will adhere to the chain manufacturer's recommendations.
Rob

[GNEPIG]

I think LPS 3 is what jmnjrpa might be thinking of, good stuff if you can find it.

The stuff I use is called Maxxim chain wax, it kind of hardens on your chain, repells sand real well.

Right now I have (operational) 4 chain driven bikes, 1 belt driven and 1 shafty (the XS11).

[fredintoon]

Chains are inherently messy, it's the price you pay.

Can't think of the name right now but there is an industrial chain lube that comes in a spray can. It sticks like cosmoline and won't sling off. It will also run for extended periods at high speeds (we're talking 24/7). Those auto oilers leave a mess on the bike and driveway.

Hi John,
yes, indeed, most brands of chain lube are formulated to maximize their stickyness so they don't fly off as readily as engine or gear oil would. The Scottoiler on my XS650 has variable settings and is activated by carb vacuum so it only leaves a mess on the bike if it's set too open and only leaves a mess on the driveway if I leave the engine running.

[Bigfoot]

If you don't have an oiler, how often should the chain be cleaned and oiled?

[Montreux_Blue]

If you don't have an oiler, how often should the chain be cleaned and oiled?

According to the shop manual for my TLR is says to clean and lubricate every 600 miles, I can't take any trips on it I guess.

[Bigfoot]

According to the shop manual for my TLR is says to clean and lubricate every 600 miles, I can't take any trips on it I guess.

Wow, that is almost ridiculous. Guess I need to do mine again. I have put a couple thousand miles on the FJ since I got it running.

[jmnjrpa]

If you use the tacky chain lube it is good for 48 -84 hours continous high speed operation under ideal conditions. You should be good for 2000 miles unless running on dirt backroads. You should adjust the chain by that distance anyway unless you like replacing thrown chains. It is not LPS 3 but that is pretty good. I will get the name and source posted later. The stuff is made for industrial chain driven machinery and is far better than anything else. I used it when I had chain driven bikes and it would extend chain life several hundred percent. There is also an industrial belt dressing that will stop belt slippage for belt driven bikes. Have some of that in the shop and will post it also.

[jmnjrpa]

Harry

Kinda hard to say. If you ride every day on paved roads and use the tacky chain lube then about 2000 miles. Use good oil and you will need to clean and lube at 500. If you ride dirt roads then clean and relube ASAP. The chain lube will keep a lot of the grit out of the links whereas the oil only helps the back road grit to do a job on the chain... like using oil on a whetstone. As the chain heats up oil slings off easier. The higher speeds reduce intervals between cleaning. You can't do a proper cleaning while it's on the bike either. I always soaked the chain in degreaser totally immersed for a couple hours then blow off with compressed air and immediately relube. My dad was a maintenance machinist so I got first hand insight into drive systems care. A good chain properly cared for should last 10K to 20K miles according to the type of rider you are.

[jmnjrpa]

Here's a couple:
Keystone Chain Drive Lubricant
Schaeffer #227 Molly Roller Chain Lube

Two other possibilities are using a dry film moly base lube or a sealed roller chain. The sealed roller chain is wider and uses a little more energy (less HP) but needs no lubrication.

On the belt dressing - I have a can of STP and a can of Prestone- both work well.

[Pat Kelly]

I used to lightly lube the chain on my Honda Hawk daily. I'd park for the night and lube it with the chain warm.
I would adjust the chain with both wheels on the ground and my roommate sitting on it (we weighed about the same). I would set the chain side 1st then adjust the other side to align the front and rear wheels.
I used a board that went along both front and rear wheel to align the wheels

[fredintoon]

- - - The sealed roller chain is wider and uses a little more energy (less HP) but needs no lubrication. - - -

Hi John,

It's true that the drag on an O-ring, X-ring or other sealed chain is more because those seals add friction, but to say that such chains need no lubrication,with all due respect, is horsefeathers!
The seals keep the factory lube inside to keep the pins oiled but the roller to sprocket interface needs lubrication just as much as any other chain.

[jmnjrpa]

That's true Fred. Left that part out but if one wanted a true maintence free chain there is a way possible. Take the sprockets and have them coated. There are several coatings that could work ( don't know how well). I like the driveline.

[FJ111200]

but if one wanted a true maintence free chain there is a way possible. Take the sprockets and have them coated. There are several coatings that could work

Go on then, give us a clue.