Any chain drive bike owners?

[Montreux_Blue]

I was wondering if anyone on here has a chain drive bike that adjusts their chain themselves. The TLR is my first chain drive bike, I've owned 2 belts and 2 shaft drives, XS11 being one of them. I read that some adjust on the side stand, center stand and swingarm stand. Plus everyone checks the tension differently, with the rider on the bike, no one on the bike, side stand, center stand............ I am so confused on what the standardized way is to do this or is every bike method different?

[fredintoon]

I was wondering if anyone on here has a chain drive bike that adjusts their chain themselves. The TLR is my first chain drive bike, I've owned 2 belts and 2 shaft drives, XS11 being one of them. I read that some adjust on the side stand, center stand and swingarm stand. Plus everyone checks the tension differently, with the rider on the bike, no one on the bike, side stand, center stand............ I am so confused on what the standardized way is to do this or is every bike method different?

Hi Blue,
alas, motorcycle rear chain drives don't self-adjust. It works like this:-
The chain should be adjusted to have between 1/2" & 3/4" up and down movement in the middle of the bottom run at it's tightest point while the centres of the drive sprocket, the swingarm pivot and the rear sprocket are all in a single line.
The confusion is in the best way to measure this. Some sit on the bike and have a buddy do the measuring. Some sandbag the seat and measure it themselves. If you are by yourself and want to be accurate, ratchet-strap the rear suspension to bring the sprockets and swingarm pivot into line. All these are best done with the bike on it's wheels and held upright with the sidestand out for safety's sake.
Some make a guess as to how much more movement is needed with the suspension fully extended with the bike on it's centrestand.
A chain drive can be up to 97% efficient under perfect conditions but it needs to be nurtured and cosseted like an ailing child.

[Montreux_Blue]

Thanks for the response. When I was saying "adjusts their chain themselves" I meant a DIY or garage mechanic, not some sort of automatic tensioner. I ended up finding the service manual online and it says to place the motorcycle on the side stand for accurate readings but doesn't mention anything about sitting on or compressing the suspension etc..... I cleaned the chain tonight and will oil and adjust tomorrow. I wish it was a belt drive.

[MartyA]

The chain free play (slack) is the distance between where it rests (pretty close to how far down you can push it) and how far up you can push it.

For my FZ-1 the chain slack is 40-50mm (1.57" to 1.97" - actually hits the bottom of the swing arm) while on the center stand, so you should be sure from the manual for the particular bike what the chain slack is supposed to be and how the bike is positioned when you do it. If you tightened mine up to 1/2" slack it would stretch tight and restrict the suspension from compressing like when you hit a bump. That makes for a rough ride and premature chain wear. Also too tight too often will stretch the chain causing you to adjust more often which shortens the life of the chain.

Now, my FZ has ~145 HP (around 130 at the rear wheel) and tends to wear out the chain a little faster than smaller bikes. Mine is 4 years old with 17,000 miles on it and just about due to be replaced. The chain has more adjustment left but some of the links are starting to get stiff.

Point is each bike has its specifications. Find the correct information either in the manual or in an internet forum like this one that has the techie and specification stuff.

[FJ111200]

What i tend to do is make the chain quite slack, so when the rider and pillion get on the bike most of the slack is taken up, but still leaves slack that can be seen to act like a wave or a ripple on water when the bike is ridden. The best place to see this happening is when watching racers on the track. OK, they chuck the c&s after every race, but is still a good indicator.
Most bikes have the tension set up when the bike is on the centre stand, but some have it set when the bike is on the side stand, one i know for sure is the Fazer 600, pre FZ6.

[Montreux_Blue]

I was told the only true method was to compress the rear suspension such that the swingarm pivot, rear axle and countershaft are all in a single plane then set tension such that there is about a half inch of slack at the tightest point of the chain. Measuring any other way introduces a lot of variables - preload/sag, ride height setting etc.

[jmnjrpa]

Be sure to use chain lube. If you place paper or cardboard behind it when spraying you won't have a *%%$$# mess to clean up. The chain lube is very tacky and is hard to remove. Place on center stand and rotate at least 2 times to get a good coat. Also if you are riding in a dusty area it is a good idea to degrease the chain and relube often. Keep a eye on it for the first few miles to assure you tightened it up good. Happy trails!

[Montreux_Blue]

I cleaned the chain today and will oil and adjust tomorrow. It was very dirty.

[trbig]

You might PM Hippie Dave and ask him what chain lube he uses. I told him about a lube that looks almost like a wax on the chain and it won't sling off. He found out what it was and uses it on his 'Busa and loves the stuff.


Tod

[fredintoon]

Life before O-ring chains

I cleaned the chain today and will oil and adjust tomorrow. It was very dirty.

Hi Blue,
the roller chain was invented by Hans Renold in 1880.
The enclosed oilbath chaincase was invented not much later but it somehow never saw widespread use.
By the 1920's (and still in use in the 1960's) a way had been developed to clean & lube Han's wonderful invention.
You need two chains and a can of "Linklyfe" solid chain wax.
Melt the can of wax on the stove.
Lift out the extra chain and let it drip-dry into the can.
Remove the dirty chain's link pin and clip the clean chain onto it's end.
Rotate the rear wheel so the clean chain goes on to replace the dirty chain.
Wash the dirty chain in a kerosene bath, scrubbing it with an old paintbrush.
Lower the newly cleaned chain into the still-melted Linklyfe and put the lid back on.
Repeat every 1,000 miles.

[FJ111200]

This is what you want. I've had one of these on my FJ, and now i've got one on my XJR. Better than lube in a tin.

http://www.scottoiler.com/

[fredintoon]

This is what you want. I've had one of these on my FJ, and now i've got one on my XJR. Better than lube in a tin.

http://www.scottoiler.com/

Hi FJ,
yeah, I have one on my XS650. I'd take Scottoiler's claim of 7 x chain life with a big grain of salt but 3 or 4 x for sure.
FYI, chainsaw cutter-bar oil works as well as the appallingly expensive jollop that comes with the Scottoiler kit and at maybe 1/4 the price.

[FJ111200]

Yeah mate, don't know about 7 times chain life, but i got 30,000 miles out of the last chain on my FJ.
As for the recommended oil, i just use any old 10w/40 or even used engine oil has been suggested.

[fredintoon]

[QUOTE=FJ111200;242898 - - - As for the recommended oil, i just use any old 10w/40 or even used engine oil has been suggested.[/QUOTE]

Hi FJ,
for sure any oil is better than no oil. But "clingtex" (the brand of the half-full gallon jug of chainsaw bar oil that's been on my shelf for a decade or so) is specially formulated, in common with motorcycle chain oil, to have the ability to not get flung off without a struggle.

[FJ111200]

Sounds like an idea to me Fred.
So have you run the Clingtex through the Scottoiler? I'm just wondering whether it would clog it up or not.
I have my Scottoiler set up to drip about 1 drop per minute or so onto the chain. As you know, if you set it up for a faster flow oil will be flung all over the wheel and tyre.