So....what setting do I use to test mine? First time user. And there ya have it. I'm no whiz.
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Source for gasket/sleeve for speedometer?
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He is there in the picture. I ALWAYS touch the probes and verify "0" Ohms BEFORE trying to test anything. If the battery is going or low, the meter will not work correctly. AMHIK.....Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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Verified the 0. Right side up 1.95. Upside down 0 again.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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You can possibly repair the sender with this part. (this will repair the thermistor type and not the float type)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/37319463300...Bk9SR9LpqZHPYg
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Originally posted by DEEBS11 View PostYou can possibly repair the sender with this part. (this will repair the thermistor type and not the float type)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/37319463300...Bk9SR9LpqZHPYg
2H7 (79)
3H3
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
Yes, that is what I have used in the past and it will work. The OEM uses an axial type thermal resistor but on that radial type, the leads can be bent in a certain way to fit in the canister without them touching the sides.
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Originally posted by DiverRay View PostIs this measuring the wires to the switch in the tank? Float all the way up should be a high reading, all the way down should be zero, If I remember correctly.
This reminds me of having to replace fuel pumps in Benzs and BMWs-it was ALWAYS people who let the car go to E before refilling. Never thought it might be because they sat without fuel for long periods but that is what happened with me-I let it sit for months ( too hot to ride here in AZ ) with little fuel in it. I SUSPECT if I hadn't it would still be functional.
But hey, what do I know?
Worse case scenario is being unable to fix and then I'd have to use odometer rather than wait for sputtering of "reserve" needed. Not THAT big a deal, really.
But I'm anal......so...
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