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Source for gasket/sleeve for speedometer?

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  • #16
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	875319 So....what setting do I use to test mine? First time user. And there ya have it. I'm no whiz.
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    • #17
      Turn it the horse shoe (omega) section and put the pointer on 20k.
      1980 XS1100G

      These aren't my words, I just arrange them

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      • #18
        He is there in the picture. I ALWAYS touch the probes and verify "0" Ohms BEFORE trying to test anything. If the battery is going or low, the meter will not work correctly. AMHIK.....
        Ray Matteis
        KE6NHG
        XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
        XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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        • #19
          Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
          He is there in the picture. I ALWAYS touch the probes and verify "0" Ohms BEFORE trying to test anything. If the battery is going or low, the meter will not work correctly. AMHIK.....
          Verified the 0. Right side up 1.95. Upside down 0 again.

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          • #20
            Verified the 0. Right side up 1.95. Upside down 0 again.
            Is this measuring the wires to the switch in the tank? Float all the way up should be a high reading, all the way down should be zero, If I remember correctly.
            Ray Matteis
            KE6NHG
            XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
            XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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            • #21
              You can possibly repair the sender with this part. (this will repair the thermistor type and not the float type)

              https://www.ebay.com/itm/37319463300...Bk9SR9LpqZHPYg


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              • #22
                Originally posted by DEEBS11 View Post
                You can possibly repair the sender with this part. (this will repair the thermistor type and not the float type)

                https://www.ebay.com/itm/37319463300...Bk9SR9LpqZHPYg


                Click image for larger version

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ID:	875330
                Yes, that is what I have used in the past and it will work. The OEM uses an axial type thermal resistor but on that radial type, the leads can be bent in a certain way to fit in the canister without them touching the sides.
                2H7 (79)
                3H3

                "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by bikerphil View Post

                  Yes, that is what I have used in the past and it will work. The OEM uses an axial type thermal resistor but on that radial type, the leads can be bent in a certain way to fit in the canister without them touching the sides.
                  OK. Ordered. ( thanks Tim! ) Where can I find instructions on "how to repair"?

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
                    Is this measuring the wires to the switch in the tank? Float all the way up should be a high reading, all the way down should be zero, If I remember correctly.
                    Wait. You're not saying mine is good, are you? I got NO LIGHT ( key on or when tank was low ) until I unplugged the connection and bridged the harness side connector with a paper clip.
                    This reminds me of having to replace fuel pumps in Benzs and BMWs-it was ALWAYS people who let the car go to E before refilling. Never thought it might be because they sat without fuel for long periods but that is what happened with me-I let it sit for months ( too hot to ride here in AZ ) with little fuel in it. I SUSPECT if I hadn't it would still be functional.
                    But hey, what do I know?
                    Worse case scenario is being unable to fix and then I'd have to use odometer rather than wait for sputtering of "reserve" needed. Not THAT big a deal, really.
                    But I'm anal......so...

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