Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[puskrat]

I can't actually do anything right now because I'm at work. However, I CAN hang out on XS11.com. And plan the next step(s).

I hate the seat on my 11. HATE. Too wide, too thick, too 70s (even though it's an 80). What has anyone used as a replacement? I've seen some custom made pieces. Ainno fabricator.

[MaximPhil]

My Tq wrench happens to be from HF, even though I saw that Western Iowa guy bash all over it. guess I can head back to the Freight next day off. Not likely to ride before then anyway, so I dunt need to worry about rattling off

Hi Puskrat,
Check the calibration sheet inside the case. I was pleasantly surprised how good the one I got is.
I picked up a 1/4 to 3/8 drive converter so I only have to carry my 3/8 drive sockets on the bike.
Phil

[3Phase]

I can't actually do anything right now because I'm at work. However, I CAN hang out on XS11.com. And plan the next step(s).

I hate the seat on my 11. HATE. Too wide, too thick, too 70s (even though it's an 80). What has anyone used as a replacement? I've seen some custom made pieces. Ainno fabricator.

Help is available to narrow the seat and other sticky-out-too-much type annoyances.

Push button, run like... well, you know.


www.standard-industrial.com | Custom hydraulic press fabrication |
Custom made horizontal four columns or bulldozer style C-frame presses are available up to 1,000 tons

[MPittma100]

Valve Adjust

Yamaha manual says tensioner will automaticaly adjust to proper tension" if I loosen a locknut and a machine screw. will it? i mean, it IS the manual, but.....


also: what if my cheap torque wrench doesnt go down to 4.3 lb-ft. ?

When rotating engine for tensioner or valve adjustment, use a wrench on the square on the left end of the crank to do so. NEVER, EVER, USE THE STARTER!

[puskrat]

When rotating engine for tensioner or valve adjustment, use a wrench on the square on the left end of the crank to do so. NEVER, EVER, USE THE STARTER!

TOO LATE. That's what I did. the sides of the square are rounded and the wench wont stay (no typo). What have I done and is there some way to fix it before I fire the engine?

[3Phase]

TOO LATE. That's what I did. the sides of the square are rounded and the wench wont stay (no typo). What have I done and is there some way to fix it before I fire the engine?

Tighten the cam chain tensioner adjuster bolt and locknut.


Remove all four spark plugs.

Carefully turn the crankshaft to TDC. Do not use the starter motor.

The timing dots on the cams should line up with the arrows on the bearing caps in the head.

If the dots don't line up or if you feel ANY resistance while turning the crankshaft with the spark plugs removed then
STOP TURNING THE CRANKSHAFT!


XS11.com Forums > Idle Talk Forum > XS11/XJ11 Discussion > Valve Adjustment Pictorial | ValveAd4.jpg

[puskrat]

Too late. The square is no longer square and I used the starter to accomplish part of turning the crank. What have I done and can i fix it before I fire the engine?

[3Phase]

If the cam chain slips you may bend the valves, that's why the manual doesn't say to use the starter motor to turn the crankshaft.

How much did you run the starter, just bump it to line up the "C " mark, then loosen the adjuster screw and set the tensioner?

Did you run the starter after setting the tensioner?

The only way to find out if the chain slipped is to take out the spark plugs, then turn the engine to TDC so you can check the cam dots. With the spark plugs removed it shouldn't be difficult to turn the crank by hand with a rag wrapped around the timing wheel.

[puskrat]

about 1 2/3 turns. Three "blips". I used it only in desperation, and it did pop past the C point on the first "blip"

Then loosened/tightened the adjuster stopper and locknut.

No further starter use. So glad you posted wht you did when you did.

Is the timing wheel the brass disc with the square head on it?

My next task is to get into the top end and do the valve shims. Guess I can verify dot alignment at that time.

[3Phase]

The manual wants you to turn the crankshaft by hand to keep the chain tensioned as if the engine is running.

The reason you're not supposed to use the starter motor is because of roll-back.
When the starter motor stops turning, the engine tends to roll backward slightly and that changes the cam chain slack.
Instead of slack at the front of the engine below the Exhaust gear so the tensioner can take up the slack, the chain will be under tension and the slack will be at the rear of the engine between the crank and the Intake cam gear.

If there's enough slack in the chain it can droop and drop off the crank gear when the engine rolls back.
When the crankshaft is turned forward again and the slack is pulled out, the chain may or may not be in the same place on the crank gear and the cams may or may not be in the correct position.

[puskrat]

So if my dots are right, I'm good? When I get the top cover off and see the alignment, I'm on to the next step. I was thinking about a new tensioner, as Ive seen that upgrade discussed. It sounds like the original system is automatic, adjusting to the proper tension when the bolt/nut are loosened, but the upgrade I read about is an "automatic" tensioner, so I'm unsure.

[3Phase]

Yes, if the crankshaft is at TDC and the dots on the cams line up with the bearing cap marks then the engine is in time and you're good.

Aside from a worst case, badly worn chain dropping out of time and having a couple of valves for lunch, a chain under tension at the front of the engine won't let the tensioner spring adjust and position the 'foot' correctly.

The 'foot' will be held back too far inside the body, then locked there by the set screw. When the engine turns forward the chain will be way too loose as you've basically just un-adjusted the chain tensioner. It'll make noise and slap the chain guides around. Eventually, it will kick the tensioner 'foot' further back into the body and possibly jump time when you let off the throttle.


The automatic tensioners that will fit our engines have a ratchet and spring combination built into the 'foot'. The tensioner spring holds the 'foot' against the chain guide and as the chain stretches, the ratchet lets the 'foot' move out to take up the slack and won't let it retract.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Puskrat,
You need a 19mm (?)open end wrench to turn the Square Nut on the timing wheel. The original is square with the corners knocked off so you must use a open end wrench (of the correct size)
Do not use the allen head in the centre to turn the engine
The timing wheel has an arrow indicating the direction of travel and as already explained do not go backwards if you miss then simply go around again.
Measure twice (or more) and write it down.

Phil

[puskrat]

I appreciate breaking it down so that. I can catch up. I'm guessing I could get away with saying the original tensioners are semi-automatic. I found the rotation Mark. I found top dead center. I read the manual provision against using Allen socket. my wr en ching Square, seems to have been battered previously. Even though I didn't notice it I can really blame it on the PO. After all the way he cranked on my oil filter he's game for any Blaine

[puskrat]

Gonna take cam cover off this weekend, do the valve thing. I saw a single shim on evibay on the way to looking up something else. is it efficient to buy those things one at a time as needed, or are there sets or subsets still available ?

Also, how concerned/alert should I be for wear on whatever I end up with? Can the shims be checked for spec?