Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

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  • puskrat
    replied
    I think I have no enthusiasm left.

    speaking of new projects....anybody got a sidehack for sale?

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  • 3Phase
    replied
    Be nice to the tensioner adjusting bolt and locknut. The body is cast metal and it'll crack or pull the threads if you get too enthusiastic.

    Edit: Write down the shim sizes for each valve and keep the list somewhere for the next time you check the shims. With a list you can check the clearances, then see if you can swap shims around or buy new shims. It'll also give you a history so you can tell what shims have been changed and how much it's worn since you started the list.
    Last edited by 3Phase; 05-08-2017, 01:56 PM.

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  • puskrat
    replied
    Indeed. I expect I'll be retensioning, then adjusting valve pads. I was entertaining a tensioner replacement, but I'm going to run with the minimum for now.

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  • 3Phase
    replied
    Heh, I use the tool and leave the cams alone, I'd suggest you do the same.

    Since I don't pull the cams but a lot of others do, someone else may have figured out how to get away with not removing the tensioner. Either way, you're going to need the bike on the center stand. You'll have to decide for yourself if you want to loosen the lock nut and adjust the tensioner so you can use the tool safely, or remove the tensioner and use a fresh gasket/glob of sealer so you can set the camshaft timing and adjust the chain.

    However you do it, turn the engine a few times by hand to make sure it's good and no valves are hitting or sticking, then disconnect the TCI and run the Starter for a few revolutions and recheck the shim clearances again one more time before you put the valve cover back on.

    When you're finished, put your snipe trap out back with your other snipes in case one of them gets loose and tries to make an es-cape. I just got rid of a nest of them and don't want any more, they aggravate the dogs.

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  • puskrat
    replied
    3, I've never done this, but I've read y'all's experience and advice enough to think you might be trying to hoodwink me. "Oh don't do all that process stuff, just pull the cams out" Hey look at the virgin! Nice cams. Wanna go snipe hunting?

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  • 3Phase
    replied
    Seriously.

    It takes less than a minute to set the tensioner but you don't have to do it first, it's your engine. The hardest part is putting the bike on the center stand.

    You can skip the tool and grinding it to fit, just pull the cams to change the shims.

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  • puskrat
    replied
    Seriously? I have to do the cam chain tensioner before the valves?

    My frustation level.

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  • 3Phase
    replied
    It may take some work to fit a Motion Pro tool but some of them drop right in and you don't have to goof with them. You'll know it's right when the tool doesn't touch the cam when you try to bolt it to the head.

    The Yamaha tool just works but it's also just seriously expensive.

    The crankshaft has to be rotated clockwise and counterclockwise to use the tool so the bike has to be on the center stand or whatever you need to do to get it upright and level, then set the cam chain tensioner before tackling the valves.
    If the cam chain has too much slack then the engine can jump time when you turn the crankshaft backward/counterclockwise. Assuming you don't lunch a valve, it still defeats the whole entire purpose of using the tool because you have to pull the cams to reset the timing.

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  • puskrat
    replied
    How in the world do you know when it's right?

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    Didn't take more than 10 minutes to modify, hopefully yours won't need it. The holes may need some enlarging also.

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  • dbbrian
    replied
    Uh-oh

    Thats the one I bought to use next Saturday

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  • bikerphil
    replied
    The Motion Pro tool may need some grinding....



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  • motoman
    replied
    I would recommend the tool from Yamaha. The MotionPro tool has to be ground in several places in order to work as smooth as the Yamaha tool.

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  • puskrat
    replied
    While I'm waiting for my gasket et al, I need to score the valve adjusting tool. What should I choose?

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  • puskrat
    replied
    Originally posted by 3Phase
    The gasket looks a little ragged but at least comes with four cam plugs for your twenty bucks so there're a couple of spares.



    Right. If they are that tight and they do get mangled but you get them out without ripping out the aluminum threads, get some new bolts. Here's a good looking set from a Midnight Special and it has the throttle cable bracket too for about $9 plus $6 for Expedited shipping:-
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/80-YAMAHA-XS.../380884485516?

    If the bolts are overtightened, the aluminum will start to lift up around the holes where the bolt threads started to pull out of the head. That makes little raised spots that'll cut into the gasket when it's tightened or just keep the cover from sitting flush on the head.

    Before you put the valve cover back on, use a hammer with some round stock to carefully knock the aluminum back down around the bolt holes, then use a tap (best) or one of the bolts to clean up the threads.



    Heh, razors are dangerous, man, and the valve cover gasket is skinny and it's easy to tear it up. Use a good pair of sharp scissors like cuticle scissors and stay away from the ones in the wife's sewing kit.

    For sealing the cam plugs, use Yamabond 4 or ThreeBond 1194.
    The sewing kit gave up its snips To my fly tying bag years ago.

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