Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[DiverRay]

If you pull the seat and look at the pan, is it plastic or steel? Plastic is aftermarket for sure. Steel may be the "touring seat" available as an option from Yamaha. If there are stickers on the bottom, it's probably Yamaha.
You will notice the seats are held on by the notch in front and 2 8mm bolts in back. There are also six round rubber pads on the seat that contact the frame or metal pads on the frame for extra support. You can send the seat off and have new foam and cover made to fit you and your riding style. This is probably the best thing to do, as the foam in your seat would be breaking down by now.

[puskrat]

Okay here's the deal....still dodging life to try to get the valve shyte done. Meanwhile I'm using my 'chained to desk' time for some design work. Said design work is focused on selecting a seat and developing a mounting system.
This is Dora....



What the heck is that seat? The bike is a 1980 Standard (G), and I see the bags and fairing are Venturer equipment-1981. Is that where the seat came from also? Ive been thinking it might be a midnight. The seat is too thick, too wide, and too seventies. It's like sitting on a horse and both my legs are malformed after a few minutes pushing the effer around from storage to work location etc. My vision is to put on a solo seat and a Quick Release second solo seat. After Ive done that I'll have to adjust pegs and/or install floorboards and consider alternate controls. Maybe I'll run a Mustang replacement of some kind, but at any rate I have to get this couch off my motorcycle.

[DiverRay]

If you can't find what you need at a shop, PM me. I keep a few around here even though I'm down to just one XS1100. I can 2 day them out to you. DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP CHINESE ONES ON EBAY!!! I've made the mistake, and had two break on me in the bike!

[puskrat]

Thanks Phils

[MaximPhil]

puskrat,
install the shims with the etched number down so you can still read it next time you need to check. a caliper is accurate enough to measure any that have had their numbers erased. when buying must be 29mm watch out for 29.5 mm used by some other bikes (BMW I think) as they will not fit in the bucket. Most bike shops will trade with you for a few $$
Good luck. I have seen it done It requires concentration and following the procedure to the letter. Take your time.
Phil

[bikerphil]

First, check your clearances and write them down. Second, remove and replace shims one at a time recording the number printed on the bottom. Now you can determine which sizes you need to buy/trade and which ones you have that can be re used in a new location. The shims are super hardened and don't wear. If it makes you feel better, you can check them with a micrometer.

[puskrat]

Gonna take cam cover off this weekend, do the valve thing. I saw a single shim on evibay on the way to looking up something else. is it efficient to buy those things one at a time as needed, or are there sets or subsets still available ?

Also, how concerned/alert should I be for wear on whatever I end up with? Can the shims be checked for spec?

[puskrat]

I appreciate breaking it down so that. I can catch up. I'm guessing I could get away with saying the original tensioners are semi-automatic. I found the rotation Mark. I found top dead center. I read the manual provision against using Allen socket. my wr en ching Square, seems to have been battered previously. Even though I didn't notice it I can really blame it on the PO. After all the way he cranked on my oil filter he's game for any Blaine

[MaximPhil]

Hi Puskrat,
You need a 19mm (?)open end wrench to turn the Square Nut on the timing wheel. The original is square with the corners knocked off so you must use a open end wrench (of the correct size)
Do not use the allen head in the centre to turn the engine
The timing wheel has an arrow indicating the direction of travel and as already explained do not go backwards if you miss then simply go around again.
Measure twice (or more) and write it down.

Phil

[3Phase]

Yes, if the crankshaft is at TDC and the dots on the cams line up with the bearing cap marks then the engine is in time and you're good.

Aside from a worst case, badly worn chain dropping out of time and having a couple of valves for lunch, a chain under tension at the front of the engine won't let the tensioner spring adjust and position the 'foot' correctly.

The 'foot' will be held back too far inside the body, then locked there by the set screw. When the engine turns forward the chain will be way too loose as you've basically just un-adjusted the chain tensioner. It'll make noise and slap the chain guides around. Eventually, it will kick the tensioner 'foot' further back into the body and possibly jump time when you let off the throttle.


The automatic tensioners that will fit our engines have a ratchet and spring combination built into the 'foot'. The tensioner spring holds the 'foot' against the chain guide and as the chain stretches, the ratchet lets the 'foot' move out to take up the slack and won't let it retract.

[puskrat]

So if my dots are right, I'm good? When I get the top cover off and see the alignment, I'm on to the next step. I was thinking about a new tensioner, as Ive seen that upgrade discussed. It sounds like the original system is automatic, adjusting to the proper tension when the bolt/nut are loosened, but the upgrade I read about is an "automatic" tensioner, so I'm unsure.

[3Phase]

The manual wants you to turn the crankshaft by hand to keep the chain tensioned as if the engine is running.

The reason you're not supposed to use the starter motor is because of roll-back.
When the starter motor stops turning, the engine tends to roll backward slightly and that changes the cam chain slack.
Instead of slack at the front of the engine below the Exhaust gear so the tensioner can take up the slack, the chain will be under tension and the slack will be at the rear of the engine between the crank and the Intake cam gear.

If there's enough slack in the chain it can droop and drop off the crank gear when the engine rolls back.
When the crankshaft is turned forward again and the slack is pulled out, the chain may or may not be in the same place on the crank gear and the cams may or may not be in the correct position.

[puskrat]

about 1 2/3 turns. Three "blips". I used it only in desperation, and it did pop past the C point on the first "blip"

Then loosened/tightened the adjuster stopper and locknut.

No further starter use. So glad you posted wht you did when you did.

Is the timing wheel the brass disc with the square head on it?

My next task is to get into the top end and do the valve shims. Guess I can verify dot alignment at that time.

[3Phase]

If the cam chain slips you may bend the valves, that's why the manual doesn't say to use the starter motor to turn the crankshaft.

How much did you run the starter, just bump it to line up the "C " mark, then loosen the adjuster screw and set the tensioner?

Did you run the starter after setting the tensioner?

The only way to find out if the chain slipped is to take out the spark plugs, then turn the engine to TDC so you can check the cam dots. With the spark plugs removed it shouldn't be difficult to turn the crank by hand with a rag wrapped around the timing wheel.

[puskrat]

Too late. The square is no longer square and I used the starter to accomplish part of turning the crank. What have I done and can i fix it before I fire the engine?