Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[puskrat]

[DiverRay]

COOL! Now keep all the parts for each carb in it's own place! The BIG thing with the '79 is the idle adjustment screw. The end is a sharp point, and can break off in the carb body. It's not fatal, but it DOES feel like it. Just follow directions in the repair thread and go slow. You should NOT need to take the bodies off the rack, just strip them down and use spray cleaner on them. You can use the tube on the cleaner to make sure each passage is clean, by spraying in one side and looking for the cleaner to come out the other side. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!
When you put the idle screws back in, just turn the screw driver by the shank, NOT the handle. This will keep you from over tightening them, and breaking the tip off.

[puskrat]

My carbs are off!

[puskrat]

Tanks Ray. Wasnt sure whether to go with that or with "well if this is what they changed to..." Actually this is one more reason for me to grumble about the P.O., who did the swap.

[DiverRay]

You use the '79, as that is what the carbs are.

[puskrat]

A new subtopic in this omnibus "ask em as you find em" thread......I'm working on an 80G with 79 carbs (F I think) I've had a leaky petcock, and gasoil, so I know one of the carbs has been leaking. I also know there was rebuilding near my purchase. When (okay maybe if) I order jets, do I run off 79 or 80 spec?

[DiverRay]

OOPS! It should be K&L parts. Most of the time, the needle and seat are all that you need. Everything else you should be able to clean up and re-use. Sometimes the needles are almost new, and then you don't really need much other than some time and work. Just make SURE you get ALL the jets out and clean ALL the passages!

[puskrat]

Airbox isn't THAT hard to re-assemble! Use a little bit of silicon seal to hold the nuts in place inside the airbox, and re-assemble. BTDT As far as carbs, DO NOT buy the K&N kits!! You should be able to replace the needle/seat assembly with Mikuni parts, set the float levels, BENCH TEST THE FLOATS, and then sync the carbs once you have the engine running again. I use a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner for carb parts. Use PINESOL mixed 50% with water for a cleaning liquid. Don't forget the mixture screws under the seals on the later model carbs!

Ray, are you referencing K&N filters or K&L carburetor parts? I was waning a bit in my commitment to Mikuni parts, but was corrected (by a Keilin rider). Not sure what all I'm going to need to fixit when i get in there. *sigh*

[DiverRay]

Airbox isn't THAT hard to re-assemble! Use a little bit of silicon seal to hold the nuts in place inside the airbox, and re-assemble. BTDT As far as carbs, DO NOT buy the K&N kits!! You should be able to replace the needle/seat assembly with Mikuni parts, set the float levels, BENCH TEST THE FLOATS, and then sync the carbs once you have the engine running again. I use a harbor freight ultrasonic cleaner for carb parts. Use PINESOL mixed 50% with water for a cleaning liquid. Don't forget the mixture screws under the seals on the later model carbs!

[puskrat]

I broke the rules.

I was going for restoration. Keeping orginal configs. When the site was down and I couldnt access the tutorials, I gave up and pulled all the screws from the airbox in my frustrated attempts at removing it. Speculation is I'll not be able return it to its assembled state, and will go to individual air cleaners. As the point of this air cleaner removal is carb diag/repair, I'll just go with the resized jets to accomodate.

[natemoen]

But seriously folks:

I know I have to inspect two carbs. I am lazy. Should I go ahead and disassemble all four anyway, in spite of my slothfulness?

I think that's an obvious yes.

[puskrat]

But seriously folks:

I know I have to inspect two carbs. I am lazy. Should I go ahead and disassemble all four anyway, in spite of my slothfulness?

[puskrat]

ALL of the specials use non-vacuum controlled petcocks. They just have the Octy vacuum control valve which many just remove anyways. IF your carbs and float needle/seats are working properly, you won't have any carb flooding/gasoil events. It's just that the petcocks turned off takes the pressure off of the float needles/seats, and removes a source for flooding IF the float/needles DO leak! An additional option is to put inline cut off valves as well, but again you have to remember to turn them to closed/off for them to work! Turning the petcocks off can become a muscle memory automatic event after a short time of doing it, like getting in the car and putting your seatbelt on first!

When parking for a long time, it's best to put it up on the centerstand, helps the float valves/needles to work easier and evenly, vs. on the side stand where the carbs are then slanted.

T.C.

Uhhhh

what's a "seat belt"?

[TopCatGr58]

What luck has anyone had with going to straight no-vacuum valves? I can be a little ADD, and I don't want to resurrect the gasoil demon by leaving a petcock "on".

ALL of the specials use non-vacuum controlled petcocks. They just have the Octy vacuum control valve which many just remove anyways. IF your carbs and float needle/seats are working properly, you won't have any carb flooding/gasoil events. It's just that the petcocks turned off takes the pressure off of the float needles/seats, and removes a source for flooding IF the float/needles DO leak! An additional option is to put inline cut off valves as well, but again you have to remember to turn them to closed/off for them to work! Turning the petcocks off can become a muscle memory automatic event after a short time of doing it, like getting in the car and putting your seatbelt on first!

When parking for a long time, it's best to put it up on the centerstand, helps the float valves/needles to work easier and evenly, vs. on the side stand where the carbs are then slanted.

T.C.

[puskrat]

If the only rust is on the cap, I'd wipe up and roll. It's the prospect of more widespread corrosion that bothers me.

I've read enough here to know sort of what I was getting into with petcocks, and the further observation that parts cost is going to be the same convinces me to just get replacements. What luck has anyone had with going to straight no-vacuum valves? I can be a little ADD, and I don't want to resurrect the gasoil demon by leaving a petcock "on".

For some reason I didn't even consider the potential use of JIS screws in and on the petcocks.