Boorrrringggg Build/Rebuild/Refres&restore

[bikerphil]

The correct pilot jet type is BS30/96

The correct main jet type is the 'large round' type

[puskrat]

I emailed jetsrus because I'm struggling in my next step. I'm soaking a couple carbs to achieve slide release, and I have the others down further...pulled Main Jets (and washer), removed "screw with a thin washer covering the pilot jet passage". Mike there just sent me a link to the page I am unable to figure out. :/ I think I may just not know enough about what I don't know to be able to ask the questions. The thing I keep bumping up against is thinking I have a I have a BS 34 unit and finding no mention of such at jetsrus.com, where everyone says I should get my Mikuni only jets and other carb parts. I feel like a complete foole.

[puskrat]

thanks Phil. Appreciate the confidence booster. One of my coworkers who's been harassing me for obsessing told me today it was a good thing I was doing what I'm doing. Guess the Stuck slides convinced him.

[MaximPhil]

thanks ray. the diaphrams are off, sorted by carb no. think i 4got 2 share that

Puskrat,
You are in good hands. Patience pays off Cleaner than clean is good.
Always ASK > better to take longer and get it right than to have to do it over
Phil

[puskrat]

thanks ray. the diaphrams are off, sorted by carb no. think i 4got 2 share that

[DiverRay]

For the stuck slides, put the carb bowls back on, and fill with GOOD carb cleaner, B12 Chemtool is what I like. You can also GENTLY heat the body up, and then spray a 50/50 mix of ATF(Auto trans fluid) and Acetone. It WILL break down Oxidation quickly, much better than PB Blaster, and it will not hurt the diaphram.

[puskrat]

Carbs are broken into major subassemblies except for two stuck slides. I've never heard of such a thing. I've sprayed 'em down and left them for the night. Should I be worried? Do carb slides seize? Diaphrams look to be intact, and pretty fresh. They're apparently replacements, surely thicker than what I see in the repair threads and youtube vids. bowl gaskets are all losses. Expected.

Waiting to get all the slides out before disassembling any. Removed main jets and pilot jet "plug screws". Left while two painters were arguing back and forth about whether my PB, Sili lube, and two kinds of carb cleaner fumes were going to ruin their finishes.

[Prothec]

I scratch the number using a metal pick into the inside of the bowl and the airbox side throat of the carb. If anyone wanted to remove it later, it could easily be polished out. The marking is for an added level of confidence. Just don't mix them up

[motoman]

Ive magic markered the bodies, the bowls and the diaphram caps. I don't think I'll do any disassembly til this evening or tomorrow. This work Ive been doing at my place of work, and I have to stop to deal with customers from time to time. Dont want to have that distraction, so will spend my Holiday weekend getting clean.

Also, to add to what Ray stated, keep the floats and float needles to their specific carb to.

[MarkD]

Puskrat -- here's a roadmap if you're interested. It's really a good helper.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95nlrP-yn2I

[3Phase]

Try not to go all John Hancock with the punch or the pencil and it will work. Be patient and remember you're just marking the parts for yourself on the bench, not so they can be seen from space!

.

[puskrat]

dirty parts in float bowls, clean parts in the carburetor caps.
y
.

Thanks. Great tip!

I anticpated the ink might not stand up to carb cleaner, pentrating oil, and other goodies it might meet, but I just fingered I'll not spray recklessly, and all will be well. Conversely, scribing numbers into the material just seems so....so....permanent.

[3Phase]

Magic marker has a way of smearing and getting black stuff on you and the work area or it just plain disappears if you look at it wrong when you're cleaning carburetor parts.

You can use an electric pencil to write the numbers on the carburetor bodies and inside the caps and float bowls or use a small punch to make the appropriate number of small punch marks . .. ... .... on the forward outer edges of the mating flanges at the junction of the carburetor bodies and float bowls. You won't see the punch marks when the carburetors are on the engine but you'll never mix them up when you're working on them.

The caps don't matter if you mix them up but you can mark them too so you can keep parts in them while you work: dirty parts in float bowls, clean parts in the carburetor caps.


Don't forget to clean the Start Jets in the float bowls. Those little holes in the edges of the bowls where the brass tube from the carburetor body goes has a tiny jet at the bottom that gets plugged up. The jet has to be clean or the engine will be hard to start and idle when it's cold.

Happy cleaning!

.

[Schming]

Hi Jeff, it's a good idea to dismantle on a designated table or bench on top of an old bath towel so the little parts don't vanish and make sure the screwdrivers you use fit the jets snugly. HTH

[puskrat]

Ive magic markered the bodies, the bowls and the diaphram caps. I don't think I'll do any disassembly til this evening or tomorrow. This work Ive been doing at my place of work, and I have to stop to deal with customers from time to time. Dont want to have that distraction, so will spend my Holiday weekend getting clean.