New Member

[Schming]

Just an update. Pulled out the chemtool and the jets appear to be clean. Just need to grab some new bolts and reassemble. Work will have me gone for a couple of weeks.

What is the best tool for setting the float levels. This has always vexed me.

A GOOD EYE and the stem end of a digital caliper

[aquamantx]

So A quick update. new oil filter and air filter have arrived. Carb assembly almost complete but the float pins i recieved from mikes are to tight in the float bushings. Any one know of another supply house besides yamaha?

[motoman]

Take a cold chisel and hit on the edge of those screw heads to pop them loose. Then get new ones by matching them up at a hardware store. May even want to get Allen head screws so you don't have the issue again. As well, the screws have a Japanese Philips head, which strips out with an American Philips head driver. Find a Japanese screw driver tip and it might not need the cold chisel persuasion.

That would be knwn as a JIS screwdriver.......stands for Japenese Industrial Standard.

[motoman]

So A quick update. new oil filter and air filter have arrived. Carb assembly almost complete but the float pins i recieved from mikes are to tight in the float bushings. Any one know of another supply house besides yamaha?

The float pins are made with a raised shoulder on the pin stop end. Carefully chuck each one in a drill, spin it and use a fine file to JUST remove the shouldered part, as you WILL be removing them time to time to get fuel levels in all four carbies spot on the same. Breaking a flot pin post off WILL ruin the carb AND your day. Remove JUST enough of the raised shoulder so that the pin JUST fits ferfectly, no more. no less. Trust me, your just getting a good start first time around assembling and installing carbs. The specified float level setting is just a happy medium. The teeny springs in the float needles do NOT compress the same under load, resulting in no two fuel bowl fuel levels being the same. You WILL have carbies off and bowls off at least three more times to get running fuel levels all the same in all four carbs!

[aquamantx]

OK float pins are in. Did some looking at the bench setups so I can sync. One more question if you dont mind. What is lightly seated on the pilot screws? I noticed at one point the tip of each screw was entering the carb body as I was screwing it in. Not sure if i should go lower and risk breaking a tip.

[Bonz]

Lightly seated equates to when you feel slight resistance screwing them in, stop. Just do it consistently on all four, and base your adjustments on that.

[motoman]

OK float pins are in. Did some looking at the bench setups so I can sync. One more question if you dont mind. What is lightly seated on the pilot screws? I noticed at one point the tip of each screw was entering the carb body as I was screwing it in. Not sure if i should go lower and risk breaking a tip.

On the 80 and later caarbs., the tapered tip has a raised shoulder that hits before the tip. Pretty much impossible to break a tip. Initial setting for THOSE mixture screws WILL be 2 and a 1/4 turns out from lightly seated. After bike running your STILL gonna have to set them using the LEAN DROP method. In other words, one at a time(starting with #3 carb) back screw out a turn or so and slowly start back in. When you HEAR the slightest rpm drop in exhaust sound, back it out an 1/8th to a 1/4 turn, A 1/4 turn at the MOST. 1/8 turn being the best unless you get a slight backfire on decel. Then back all four out just another 1/8 turn. This method is used on ALL carbs including automotive. Automotive applied is 1 to 1 1/2 turns out after slightest rpm drop screwing them in. This is from me being a carb guru for several decades in the automotive world.

[aquamantx]

Thanks for the info.

[aquamantx]

Carbs

Been out for a while. Been home 3 days in the last two and a half months so not a lot of progress on baby.
So the carbs are cleaned and assembled. Need to build the rig for setting float heights.
I was wondering if anyone has had experience with the boots I see on line. Mine are as most seriously weathered. I would prefer to correct the possible issue now while i have the carbs off.

[aquamantx]

As I have read on the forum the after market parts are not as good. Decided to pull the k&l float valves and seats because i didnt like the large variations in the float heights when I checked them. Purchased Yamaha oem float valve and seats and voila the floats are all pretty much at the same recommended height with no adjustment to the floats. I used the cut gasket method to check and it is quite easy.

[Schming]

Good Move !!!

As I have read on the forum the after market parts are not as good. Decided to pull the k&l float valves and seats because i didnt like the large variations in the float heights when I checked them. Purchased Yamaha oem float valve and seats and voila the floats are all pretty much at the same recommended height with no adjustment to the floats. I used the cut gasket method to check and it is quite easy.

IMHO spending a few extra bucks for genuine Mikuni parts virtually ends the frustration of carb rebuilds on these XS11's.

Same philosophy I use on other brand rebuilds with good results.

[aquamantx]

Ok so after being interupted by the job im back on her for a few days. I decided that caution could keep me alive and decided to fix the brakes before setting up the carbs. Had pics of the rear master on another post. Cleaned up ok. Removed the rear caliper needing a bfrh and have found that the piston is stuck. Tried air to no avail ( 150psi). Have it filled with liquid wrench to see if it will loosen.
Does anyone happen to know the bolt size for the banjo bolt. I would like to plug it and try the grease gun idea. I have some pics for anyone doing a midnight special rear brake. The clymer manual is a little off.

[aquamantx]

Hi folks,
Well been making progress, granted slow, and the rear master and caliper are redone. Moved to the front and ran into a small issue. After draining what looked like gold water out of the caliper I went to split the parts. I cannot seem to remove the pin on the slide parts. pad pin is out but the floating pin doesn't want to budge. I cant find any locking screw or the like so am I missing something? The pin slides with the part in the housing.
Just trying not to brake a good caliper over replacing dust boots.