Updated pictures on my build

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Mike and MATHH,

Okay, here's his front brake picture:


Mathh, looking at the one you posted, the sections where the mounting bolts go thru NARROW both on the caliper body as well as the fork mount.
But his appear to be just cylindrical. I would think that the threads are in the Fork section, and there appears to be some distance/space on the bottom/mating surface/section of the caliper BODY mounting tubes that could be REMOVED to allow the caliper to fit farther down onto the rotor and may not require replacing the rotor!? JAT!!!!

Yeah, those rotors are $$, even floating discs for the OEM are like ~$200.00 or so EACH!!

T.C.

[Mathh]

Hey Mike and MATHH,

Okay, here's his front brake picture:


Mathh, looking at the one you posted, the sections where the mounting bolts go thru NARROW both on the caliper body as well as the fork mount.
But his appear to be just cylindrical. I would think that the threads are in the Fork section, and there appears to be some distance/space on the bottom/mating surface/section of the caliper BODY mounting tubes that could be REMOVED to allow the caliper to fit farther down onto the rotor and may not require replacing the rotor!? JAT!!!!

Yeah, those rotors are $$, even floating discs for the OEM are like ~$200.00 or so EACH!!

T.C.

Hi TC. Your observations are correct. That can be a solution, but one that should be done with extreme caution. The forces on both round areas where caliper and fork lower meet are enormous under braking, the caliper trying to rotate in the direction of the wheel. Therefore the mounting points should be absolutely flush, so filing by hand or power tool is a definite nono and you should take it to a machinist to do so. Second question then: will the special bolts still have the desired length and if shortened is there sufficient thread left. The bolts should have the same mounting depth minimum as before adapting.



But before TS starts he has to measure exactly how much shortening has to be done.

[motoman]

Not to totally hi-jack the thread, but Mathh, you know I can't resist asking' bout your self manufactured twin-sparred frame xs11 project.
...you least gotta throw up some of those earlier pics for the newbies here to see how a twin sparred, mono-shock build SHOULD be done.

BTW, a very precisionly done job so far .

[madmax-im]

Hey Brant ya mean this one? This is bitchin'....

[madmax-im]

[motoman]

Seen that one before here....and yes, nicely done.
But the Mathh was building, literally frame and all was the one I was referring to.
The last point I saw it here he had the built frame in a jig after designing the twin-spar portion around the upper portion of motor.
Twin-spar is the frame design that all the newer sport bikes and moto-x bikes use.
This frame design in heavily bolted together frame structure is also used on the ST's and other sport tourers....even 1800Wings.
The double down-tube cradle frames are a thing of the past due to their flexing, cept on certain V twins for the most part .

[Mathh]

Thanks for the compliments guys. I think Motoman means this one, still under construction:



Showing of is for 20 year olds and I'm way beyond that ....
I'm just here hoping to share some knowledge .....

[madmax-im]

ah yes of course the work in progress model...I'm still impressed with the earlier one...