Did Someone Say Build Thread?!!

[DGXSER]

Let me assure you Steven, I take no offense to good advice. We all try to hard to make good things happen to quickly and break stuff some times, myself included. I am letting the wondrous MMO have time to do its work.

In the mean time I am trying to peel open these carbs. When even the big bloody screw that holds the octy on is stripping out, it can not be good things on the horizon for the bowl and diaphragm screws.

[DCII]

Don, It will be hard for this one not to be a money maker. Couple of tires and some sweat equity and it should be good to go by Spring. Heck I am sure the big trunk will be hot item, is Bill right about it having a lot of junk in it?

[DGXSER]

Well Doug, I never speak to soon on these old bikes. Well, I try not to, for instance, after cleaning the tank up, one side has a bunch of rust pitting through the paint. So it will need to be repainted. To keep from repainting the entire bike, I will need to make a template of the custom pin striping work, and find the same color paints.

on the good side, the motor is starting to turn, although it only turns 3/4 turn of the crank and gets stuck. Time and patience grasshopper, let the MMO work on that rust ring, hopefully saving the piston rings.

There was some unexpected junk in the trunk....


I also opened the locked portion of the fairing and found a rain suit, and two new spark plugs. So I am making money already!!

[Garagamus]

Great find, I found my '81 standard for the magical price of $200. Had it running in three days. Its nice when the gods smile upon and give a worthwhile project to the deserving. Have fun with the build, post lots of updates...its always nice to see someone put something together right, before I do it wrong.

[DGXSER]

I searched for months for a Standard model. One came up in Indianapolis, however, the seller stood me up after I hung around town for five hours to look at the bike. So I moved on. Only other Standard is the 78 in Ft Wayne area, and it is to nice for me. I like a project.

Well, today was carburation day. OK, more like the torture of a set of carbs day. In all the racks of carbs I have worked on, I have never had a set with so many stuck fasteners. I had to take the dremel to well over 50% of the screws holding the float bowls, diaphragm covers, and the rack together. Even one of the set screws for the choke gave me fits! First time I had to deal with the plugs over the mix screws, what a PITA that was. I tried the trick of drilling a hole, inserting a screw and pulling while wiggling....not the result I had in mind......


Well, no real harm done. Got the rest by drilling them out. Even with the covers on, I still had one mix screw that would not budge. I used PB Blaster, a torch, stripped out, cut a new slot with the dremel, would NOT budge. So it also got drilled out. Good news is, after about 8 hours of work, I have them fully disassembled.


Bodies are soaking in Pine-sol, metal stuff is soaking in Berrymans. I'm ready for a big tall drink!!

[DGXSER]

Well the engine turns about 3/4 of a rotation of the crank. Then it hits a stopping point. Must be where the rings on one cylinder hit the rust ring on the cylinder wall. Put a bunch of MMO in all four cylinders, put the plugs back in. Gonna let it sit for a few days or so.

Otherwise, the carbs parts in the berrymans are looking much better!! Letting the bodies sit in the Pinesol for the day.

Never took off a Vetter fairing before, four bolts and a harness connector and its off. Real simple! Is it normal that the bracket is only bolted to the frame at the top, the lower braces are strapped to the frame with hose clamps? That is the setup on this one. Of course, the driving lights frame was bolted to the front two fairing mount bolts, the rail was then strapped to the fairing bracket with hose clamps. They were also not wired up..hmm.

Well, if I get the engine to free up, step one will be to get a fuse box from TC. Time to apply patience....wish I had some.

[Gallaecus]

hey Don
did you take the valve cover off to see if the valves are returning to the closed position? or is it possible to see the valves closed through the plug hole ?
hope you get it turning freely soon.

[MaximPhil]

Well the engine turns about 3/4 of a rotation of the crank. Then it hits a stopping point. Must be where the rings on one cylinder hit the rust ring on the cylinder wall. Put a bunch of MMO in all four cylinders, put the plugs back in. Gonna let it sit for a few days or so.

Otherwise, the carbs parts in the berrymans are looking much better!! Letting the bodies sit in the Pinesol for the day.

Never took off a Vetter fairing before, four bolts and a harness connector and its off. Real simple! Is it normal that the bracket is only bolted to the frame at the top, the lower braces are strapped to the frame with hose clamps? That is the setup on this one. Of course, the driving lights frame was bolted to the front two fairing mount bolts, the rail was then strapped to the fairing bracket with hose clamps. They were also not wired up..hmm.

Well, if I get the engine to free up, step one will be to get a fuse box from TC. Time to apply patience....wish I had some.

Hi Don,
Your fairing mount sounds to be the same as mine. I have 2 hose clamps on each support.which makes me feel better
When i installed my driving lights I found the alternator could not keep up with 2 x 55watt bulbs even at highway speed so I installed 35watt bulbs and it works fine.
A couple of nice LED lights would save even more .....electrickery but cost more $$$
Phil

[DGXSER]

Good point Steven, a stuck valve could be the culprit. I'll pop the valve cover next.

Thanks Phil, not sure I will put the driving lights back. But who knows for sure. First things first, engine must turn over.

[XJOK2PLAY]

Hey Don,
Looks like a good rebuilder... And tools to boot!

Hope the motor loosens up, and the rings aren't ruined.

Great to see another standard has been saved by someone as knowledgable and capable as you!

I'm sure she'll soon be a strong runner, and a beauty to boot.
Bob

[DGXSER]

Thanks very much for your vote of confidence Bob. This one is a Special, but none the less, I will do my best with it. Lots of corrosion everywhere I look. Even the bolts that hold the kill switch. I swear it must have actually sat outside for a while to be this bad rusted in some places.

I also figured out someone used red locktite when they reassembled the carbs last time around! No wonder I had such a crazy time getting the bloody screws out. It still amazes me how well Barrymans cleans up the crappy parts, and how amazingly well Pinesol works on the carb bodies. I'll get pics tomorrow. I did have to use new pilot and main jets, the ones that were in there had to much corrosion to the brass around the inlets. Same for the needle valve seats, will need to order new ones.

I did get the crash bars and fairing frame pulled today. Keeping it a roller till I free the engine up, should I decide to roll it and pop the clutch to try to free the engine up. I will pull the valve cover tomorrow though and maybe the cams to see if all the valves come up.

[DGXSER]

Sorry, no pics just yet, not much new is pic worthy.

I remain amazed at the different things I find on this bike. It is as original and well put together as any I have picked up. Even had the bag over all the electrical connectors in the fairing, which seems to work really well. They look like they just came out of the factory, bright clean brass.

Yet, there is so much rust everywhere I look, even the screws that hold the right hand switch to the bars are brown with rust, the dust of the rust falls as you turn them. Even the screws inside the switch were rusty. It is like the bike sat outside for ever. But it was in a garage, though unconditioned. And still, the inside of the tank is NOT overly rusted.

I pull the front brake lever and the piston is frozen in place. Yet, the front banjo bolt was loose, and there is zero brake fluid in the reservoir or the MC. I expect to find the same in the rear system as its pedal moves freely with no effect.

I did pull the valve cover, and the crank turns back and forth about 3/4 turn. I can see that all of the valves are staying in contact with the cam lobes through out that travel, so none seem stuck. This seems to be a rust ring in one cylinder that the piston rings hit. Letting it soak some more in MMO, got the cylinders about filled with the stuff.

So the story on the bike was that he had about $600 worth of work done to it back in 2007, then he hurt his back and can't ride anymore, and that is why he is selling all his bikes off. Looking things over, I am not sure what they did for the $600, but it seems as if the work was left incomplete. How else would the MC have ZERO fluid in it, not even the gooey grunge of dried up fluid.

[DGXSER]

Now I find this very interesting, the right hand controls, stop switch, MC, all had VERY rusty bolts and screws, and not so nice switch bodies on them. I move over to the left side and find the turn signal switch is all but pristine condition???? Not that this is a bad thing, but still. weird.

So my best guess is that the brake fluid wept out of the MC and got all over the right hand controls. I would not have thought it would be detrimental to aluminum, or steel, but it would seem that it caused the steel stuff to rust like mad, perhaps because it draws up moisture and that moisture caused the corrosion.

[donebysunday]

[QUOTE=DGXSER;428996]Sorry, no pics just yet, not much new is pic worthy.

I remain amazed at the different things I find on this bike. It is as original and well put together as any I have picked up. Even had the bag over all the electrical connectors in the fairing, which seems to work really well. They look like they just came out of the factory, bright clean brass.

Yet, there is so much rust everywhere I look, even the screws that hold the right hand switch to the bars are brown with rust, the dust of the rust falls as you turn them. Even the screws inside the switch were rusty. It is like the bike sat outside for ever. But it was in a garage, though unconditioned. And still, the inside of the tank is NOT overly rusted.

I pull the front brake lever and the piston is frozen in place. Yet, the front banjo bolt was loose, and there is zero brake fluid in the reservoir or the MC. I expect to find the same in the rear system as its pedal moves freely with no effect.

I did pull the valve cover, and the crank turns back and forth about 3/4 turn. I can see that all of the valves are staying in contact with the cam lobes through out that travel, so none seem stuck. This seems to be a rust ring in one cylinder that the piston rings hit. Letting it soak some more in MMO, got the cylinders about filled with the stuff.



Careful of that 3/4 turn could still be a stuck valve ?

[DGXSER]

Well, today I gave the engine a nudge...ok more than a nudge. I took the bike out on the driveway, pushing it in neutral I could feel something was still binding. But it seemed to loosen up. Then I put it in gear, got it rolling good, and popped he clutch. Well, the engine now turns over. I will say that it definitely has compression, as it sprayed MMO about 50' across my driveway and my daughters CRV! So I spent the next 20 minutes cleaning a CRV.

So now I checked the valve clearances, and I found two out of spec. No 2 intake is very tight at .0025" and no 4 exhaust is pretty far out at .012".

So this got me concerned I may have a sticking valve. Time to check compression. Well, the bike needs a starter button, as well as a battery, so I turned it by hand. Knowing I was not going to see 140 psi, I just wanted to see what the difference might be between no 1 with spec valve clearance and no 4 with the large exhaust valve gap. Both seem to be close at about 40 psi. So I was glad to see that the no 4 valve seems to be closing.

So I set the timimg to the C mark.....


Then removed the timing chain adjuster, I have an auto unit ready to install. I had already removed the valve cover of course, yes, the gasket stuck in just two small spots, but it was enough to ruin the gasket, looks like the adjuster had been leaking, all the oil on the front of the cover, or the gasket was ...


And then pulled the caps off. Now time to get those couple shims out and see what I will need to get the gaps correct......


So I got an extra Christmas Present today...I now feel like I got a fecking bike, and not a pile of parts!!