Its not so much downing a quick fix as it is making sure everyone knows the pitfalls. There are a lot of things that work fine for the general user but the best thing about this site is all the positive and negative are given.
A person who knows something about his/her bike is very different from a newbie on here. Say for instance someone comes up with a quick get around or fix for their bike that is a great thing. However there are newbies and lurkers here who have never even seen this bike and now have one. Its only fair that all the information is in the thread or at least enough to point anyone in a safe direction. Some of these bikes have been POed to death a guy that has just gotten a 30 year old bike I suggest taking the springs out and checking things rather than the mix of cleaners and thinking everthing is just fine.
Shinko tire travesty
Collapse
X
-
Any friction modifiers in that Mazola? BTW, glad you've finially pampered the SG with an ACCT.With respect to putting a cleaner in there, kerosene is an oil fuel, and as such poses no risk to the fork seal, and it's only in there for a matter of a few moments to flush stuff out, then chase it with some ATF. NOT A PROBLEM in reality.
Don't understand why so much negativity, per se, comes out when folks in general come up with a good trick or method and it gets poo-poo'd left and right.
I'm guilty of it too, and it would be helpful for all of us to be open to things and learn them, such as I have in the cct thread some may have been following. If a guy wants to run Mazola in his crankcase for an oil change interval, let him know it ain't a good idea, K?
I think that makes the point?Leave a comment:
-
Any friction modifiers in that Maxola? BTW, glad you've finially pampered the SG with an ACCA.With respect to putting a cleaner in there, kerosene is an oil fuel, and as such poses no risk to the fork seal, and it's only in there for a matter of a few moments to flush stuff out, then chase it with some ATF. NOT A PROBLEM in reality.
Don't understand why so much negativity, per se, comes out when folks in general come up with a good trick or method and it gets poo-poo'd left and right.
I'm guilty of it too, and it would be helpful for all of us to be open to things and learn them, such as I have in the cct thread some may have been following. If a guy wants to run Mazola in his crankcase for an oil change interval, let him know it ain't a good idea, K?
I think that makes the point?Leave a comment:
-
With respect to putting a cleaner in there, kerosene is an oil fuel, and as such poses no risk to the fork seal, and it's only in there for a matter of a few moments to flush stuff out, then chase it with some ATF. NOT A PROBLEM in reality.
Don't understand why so much negativity, per se, comes out when folks in general come up with a good trick or method and it gets poo-poo'd left and right.
I'm guilty of it too, and it would be helpful for all of us to be open to things and learn them, such as I have in the cct thread some may have been following. If a guy wants to run Mazola in his crankcase for an oil change interval, let him know it ain't a good idea, K?
I think that makes the point?Leave a comment:
-
Just piping in with my 2 cents worth. These forks are oil air charged so you have air in them not nitrogen etc etc. Air when heated and cooled expecially in a confined space creates moisture. Moisture makes rust. Water in oil makes sludge. Rust and sludge stick to everything. Rust is hard to remove and sludge is just about as bad.
I do not see where you can simply put any type cleaner in and get this crap flushed out. I'd almost bet anything you put in to clean it will damage the seals. Also its what you can't see that kills you.
Now I can see where people who drain and refill often and store their bike where where is does not freeze and thaw would have less trash but all and all the only way would be to pull it out and inspect.
Would not be nice to be at high speed hit the front brakes have it dive one rusty spring break putting you into a tank slapping wobble. But if you obey all laws never speed never overload you are PROBABLY safe.
Leave a comment:
-
Since Courtney never had a leak, he probably doesn't have the sludge since dirt hasn't gotten in there. Or maybe I'm totally wrong on that, but I just asked for a band aid until winter cause I was just going to ride it anyway. I think its a really good idea to get someone by a few months so your not getting fork oil all over the place or running it dry.Leave a comment:
-
The by products of oil being smashed and squashed and micro metal particles from 30+ years accumulating in the bottom nether regions of the fork has to be cleaned out, but I do not think it has to be done at each fork fluid change.
With Courtney's method, I would run a bit of kerosene into the valve, pump the fork around and drain. I bet the crud that comes out is many shades nastier looking than anything that's come out in 25 years of doing straight oil in and straight oil out. (Courtney, humor me on this one
) Then put some ATF in the fork, cause its cheap, pump the fork to basically flush out the kerosene, drain it and then fill with your fluid of choice to the desired level.
Fwiw, I added a bit more fluid to each fork than called for, made the fork respond more to my liking in the ride and brake dive departments vs adding more air to the tubes.Leave a comment:
-
Doesn't sludge help control damping and fork dive?
After thirty years you're just getting everything all nice and sludged up to where the forks damp and the front end doesn't dive and you want to clean it?
.Leave a comment:
-
I would agree with Rasputin on this one. Every old Xs I have gotten and went through the forks(total disassembly), I have found sludge in The bottom of the forks. Adding clean oil to that sludge will just contaminate it fairly quickly.Last edited by tarzan; 07-23-2013, 07:14 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Can't dispute your logic Rasputin, you have to do what sets your mind at ease for safety. I HAVE owned the bike for 25 yrs, but have never had the forks apart, since they have never leaked and I don't tend to disassemble things unless I have a problem. I don't know what would cause buildup of crud in what is supposed to be a closed system, unless it is dirt getting past the fork seals??? In any case, would LOVE to see what crud there is if someone has some pics. I follow the fork oil change schedule from the manual, and maybe that's why I don't have any problems Next time I change the oil, I will pay more attention to the color of the oil as to if it's nasty looking or not!
Leave a comment:
-
I have to disagree with this method as the forks I have had apart while changing the oil were in very bad need of cleaning. If you have 25 yrs of doing it this way I would venture to say that you also have 25 yrs of crud built up in places you have never seen.
If you were the only rider on that bike I would say there is a possibility your method may work. I would hate to steer someone who just bought a 30+ year old bike wrong and say this would be a good idea. Unless you know the history it is always far better to play it safe and do the job completely. That fork oil could possibly be the original oil.
I just wish I had the capabilities to take a pic of some of the insides of the fork tubes I have had apart. The sludge in there is considerable and the way it will affect the handling is not good. We all talk about fork emulators and fork seals, new springs, air pressure etc. To me the best thing you can do for handling is clean and refill the forks with the correct amount of fork oil.
Not trying to give you a hard time Courtney but lives depend on handling of these old girls and that is one thing I will never shortcut on.Leave a comment:
-
Thanks Bonz,
I didn't even take the full valve assembly out, I just remove the "core" with a standard bicycle tool, fill the fork, then put the core back in the valve body.
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: