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Traded a Mossberg 590 for a 1979 yamaha Xs 1100 and new to forum
Hi Kyle and welcome,
if installing the not quite right replacement seat starts giving you grief, you can always try to salvage the existing rusted away seat pan.
Sandblast the remains to provide a good key for the 3 layers of fiberglass that you put over it.
The little teeth that hold the cover on will most likely have snapped off when the cover was removed.
They can be replaced with strips of teeth that pop rivet on.
Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
Everything was dry.... The slides, and the sleeve that slides in the rubber boot. It was all sized up. But, NO LONGER.
Next issue. I attacked the fuel lines....
I guess the previous owner was only running two cyls?
Only the bottom T on both sides had a line going to it.
Are they all supposed to have lines to them?
Aka off each petcock, an inlaid filter...a Y, then to both carb T's?
Then, it looks like each manifold has a vac port on it... Along with the #2 carb from the left?
Each outside port it plugged, along with the port on the carb facing the engine.
I assume the open vac ports connect to the petcocks.
I'm having a blast working on all this.
Thanks for all the help everyone
79F
"Excelsior"
Honda gl1100 handlebar
Vetter IV fairing with speaker system
OE headers,Jardine slipons
Hid headlight 6000k
Stock jets
Shinko 712 F & R
Oe hardbags and luggage rack
TC fuse block
K&n filter with oe airbox
Raptor 660 Acct
Found a portion of a post stating this... By a certain cat
78-80 carbs have 2 sets of inlets, the LOWER ones which are the*fuel*inlets, the UPPER ones are the bowl vents only and no*fuel*lines should be connected to them, but they need to be OPEN to air/vent, otherwise if capped off, will cause the carbs to flood.*
Guess that answered part of my question.
79F
"Excelsior"
Honda gl1100 handlebar
Vetter IV fairing with speaker system
OE headers,Jardine slipons
Hid headlight 6000k
Stock jets
Shinko 712 F & R
Oe hardbags and luggage rack
TC fuse block
K&n filter with oe airbox
Raptor 660 Acct
Hi Kyle and welcome,
if installing the not quite right replacement seat starts giving you grief, you can always try to salvage the existing rusted away seat pan.
Sandblast the remains to provide a good key for the 3 layers of fiberglass that you put over it.
The little teeth that hold the cover on will most likely have snapped off when the cover was removed.
They can be replaced with strips of teeth that pop rivet on.
The whole right rear of the pan is rusted away basically.
I guess when I thought it was in half, was because the whole cushion is able to move.
I hope this 1980 seat isn't too hard to install..... :/
79F
"Excelsior"
Honda gl1100 handlebar
Vetter IV fairing with speaker system
OE headers,Jardine slipons
Hid headlight 6000k
Stock jets
Shinko 712 F & R
Oe hardbags and luggage rack
TC fuse block
K&n filter with oe airbox
Raptor 660 Acct
Hello 88, welcome to the best place south of the north pole for Yamaha knowledge. As you know by now we have the most eager helpers there are. We are glad you found us. Good luck with the bike.
Ole Jack
J.D."Jack" Smith
1980G&S "Halfbreed"
1978E straight job
"We the people are the rightful masters of both congress and the courts, not to overthrow the constitution, but to overthrow the men who pervert the constitution." Abraham Lincoln
Life is like a coin, you can choose to spend it any way you wish, but you can only spend it once. Make your choices wisely.
Yep, lots of info available when you search. The petcocks on a standard are Vacuum actuated, so that's why they get connected to 2 of the intake boot ports. However, the #2 carb body port is ONLY for the vac. advance hose that "should" be coming from the left timing cover...vacuum pot underneath it. The carb port is metered and controlled by the throttle shaft butterfly which is required to properly control the vac. advance function.
Hopefully on the brake calipers, you took the square O-ring out of the groove and cleaned/scraped the corrosion that builds up in the caliper groove which can put excessive amounts of pressure on the caliper piston preventing it from sliding back and forth. Also, check out the tech tips for the SPOOGE HOLE repair/fix for the master cylinder. Some/many folks still use their OEM Vinyl brake lines. But others complained of poor braking response/affect, and after installing braided stainless steel lines, there was a significant improvement in stiffness and such. Just a thought for a possible improvement in the future, I know you're just trying to get it up and running without sinking a ton of $$ into it.
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
Okay. So the capped off intake boot is supposed to go to a vac advance... Lol.
I'm sure that'll help it run alot better.
I disassembled and cleaned the brakes according to what I'm used to doing when I was an aut tech.
I don't remember seeing any square o ring. I removed the pads, and slides, greased the contact points of the slides And caliper.
I'll start posting photos eventually, I use my phone mainly and I wish the forum used Tapatalk like my others.
I remember going through and finding the fabled spoog hole on the forum.
And your correct, before I drop a ton of cash into it, I want the basics running. Then I'll know it's worth it.
79F
"Excelsior"
Honda gl1100 handlebar
Vetter IV fairing with speaker system
OE headers,Jardine slipons
Hid headlight 6000k
Stock jets
Shinko 712 F & R
Oe hardbags and luggage rack
TC fuse block
K&n filter with oe airbox
Raptor 660 Acct
You have to remove the caliper piston from the caliper to find and clean this square o-ring. It gets a bunch of gunk built up behind it and needs to be cleaned.
2-79 XS1100 SF 2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever 80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!
Okay. So the capped off intake boot is supposed to go to a vac advance...
No, the vac advance goes to a port on the front of carb body #2, the 4 intake boot ports should be either capped off or running to the 2 fuel taps to let the gas flow when the engine is running.
No, the vac advance goes to a port on the front of carb body #2, the 4 intake boot ports should be either capped off or running to the 2 fuel taps to let the gas flow when the engine is running.
Sorry, I forgot I removed the lines from the intake boots.
I meant to say the port that is capped off on the back of the carb
Tomorrow I will definitely look into it.
I bought 4 feet each fuel and vacuum line just for this reason.
When I get everything up to snuff, I plan to totally rebuild the calipers. The previous owner decided to spray the left front down with something like lithium or pb blaster, and it ate all the rubber dust covers...
This bike has a little bit of everything wrong...... Lol
79F
"Excelsior"
Honda gl1100 handlebar
Vetter IV fairing with speaker system
OE headers,Jardine slipons
Hid headlight 6000k
Stock jets
Shinko 712 F & R
Oe hardbags and luggage rack
TC fuse block
K&n filter with oe airbox
Raptor 660 Acct
Sorry, I forgot I removed the lines from the intake boots.
I meant to say the port that is capped off on the back of the carb
Take another look. The timing vacuum port is a brass tube that sticks up and out from body on the front of the carb , just to the left of the idle screw on number two carb. (the carb second from left)
It is situated so that the vacuum increases with increased air flow through the carb, (open throttle), unlike the ports on the rubber intake boots which have increased vacuum when the throttle is closed.
If your carbs have a port on the back, they are not stock for an XS11.
CZ
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