Almost there

[CoastRider]

I’m so freakin close I can taste it (gas, carb cleaner, brake fluid, motor oil,etc…). The bike is running well but still needs the carbs synced. I’ll do that tomorrow. I now have a bit of an electrical issue. I took off the fairing and am building it naked. A couple of issues: my head light doesn’t work and looking at the schematic it looks to be connected correctly. Other symptoms are no back light on the speedo or tach. The brake light doesn’t come on when I hit the back brakes but does when I hit the front brake. The turn signal won’t flash but the relay clicks. All the fuses test good and as I mentioned the wires look to match the schematic.
Thanks
Jason

[DGXSER]

OK, lest tackle these one at a time.....

my head light doesn’t work and looking at the schematic it looks to be connected correctly. Other symptoms are no back light on the speedo or tach.

Most likely this the result of a bad headlight relay. (you do meanthis is after the bike is running..yes?). The headligh relay needs voltage from the alternator to pull hte relay in and power the blue/black wire that is then the blue wire to the speedo and tach lights as wellas the blue/black wire to the RLU.

The brake light doesn’t come on when I hit the back brakes but does when I hit the front brake.

sounds like a bad or out of adjustment brake light switch at the rear brakes.

The turn signal won’t flash but the relay clicks. All the fuses test good and as I mentioned the wires look to match the schematic.

A couple things here, check you have the correct bulbs in the sockets, and that the bulbs are good. Do the lights light up and not blink or no lihgts at all? One other thing these bikes are natorious for is poor voltage at idle. So try revving the engine up to about 4k rpm and see if they start flashing. If the lights all light, but do not flash, then perhaps the flasher cancelling unit, I am not certain if that could cause your symtoms, but it is in the circuit.

[CoastRider]

I didn't have the bike running when I checked the headlight, The bulbs I took out of the fairing so I'll match them to the existing rear ones and I'll check out the switch on the real brake
Thanks
Jason

[DGXSER]

That lack of voltage I mentioned when idling low can be even worse with the bike not running, depending on the condition of the wires and your battery. So, get the biek running then try the headlight, tach, speedoo, and turn signal lights.

The rear brake light should work any time the key is on.

[BA80]

Other symptoms are no back light on the speedo or tach.

That's one complete cicuit not working not just a headlight bulb. Check that fuse panel again and if all is good there bypass the headlight relay and see what happens.

[DGXSER]

Greg, Look a little closer.....

I didn't have the bike running when I checked the headlight

The headlight relay needs voltage from the alternator to pull the relay in and power the blue/black wire that is then the power or blue wire to the speedo and tach lights as well as the blue/black wire or power to the RLU.

Bike not running, no headlight, no tach or speedo lights. No need to dig into the fuses.

[BA80]

Ahhh my bad........but could bypass the relay and both should work with the key.

[CoastRider]

Ok all is good, amazing how much better the electrical works with the engine running. I did have to adjust the real brake light switch but all electric systems are running. Now to make the vacuum thingy to sync the carbs.

Thanks for all the help
Jason

[Shacknasty]

I’m so freakin close I can taste it (gas, carb cleaner, brake fluid, motor oil,etc…).
Thanks
Jason

I think you need to wash yer hands before ya eat...

[Poprock]

Lotsa luck, Coast Rider. Run 'er out to Tillamook and I'll show you around.

[CoastRider]

Ok, carbs 6 me 0. I did the bench sync'ed and installed the carbs. I then made a carb sync out of 4ea 12' pieces of tube and ATF. I got them synced fairly well but it just wasn't right. The plugs in cylinder 1 & 2 looked good but 3 & 4 looked to be running rich. I tightened the mixture screws on 3&4 to almost closed and figured that wasn't right. So having already had the carbs off 4 or 5 times I figured I'd just pull them and redo the bench sync. Well I used the bread wrapper wire trick, got them close and put them back on. Now when I start it it races to 4500rpm and sits there. Having had way too much fun with the carb sync the first time I'd rather not suck anymore ATF into the cylinder at high rpm and thought I's ask for help.

Maybe a related issue is that when I had it running the pipes for 3 and 4 where cooler then the ones for 1 and 2. Someone mentioned possible low coil ignition? Possibly why they where rich?

Thanks
Jason

[mack]

Linkage

Check your throttle linkage, could be its hung up. Before you start it roll open the throttle and let it go. You should hear the butterfly shafts snap closed to the idle screw. If that isn't your problem, turn down your idle and start your sync again.

[CoastRider]

I adjusted the idle speed adjustment knob down so it idles at 1100. I was under the misconception that this threw them way out of wack. Guess it does but now I'll put the manometer on it and see if I can get them sync'ed.
thank
Jason

[CoastRider]

After further review the coil firing cylinder 3 and 4 has very erratic spark at best. Any recommendations on a coil?

[CoastRider]

After further review the coil firing cylinder 3 and 4 has very erratic spark at best. Looking at the diagram it appears 1 & 3 work of one side and 2 & 4 work off the other. I don't suppose anyone has a schematic for the actual coil winding's. Any recommendations on a coil?