Greetings from Tucson!

[Sol]

Rtv

Yea, I looked at the RTV when they had no rubber sheet. I thought I could perhaps smear some on some plywood cut-outs, if it came to that (don't really have wood working tools - am an electrical & mechanical guy). Last time on the GL I used some conduit body gasket cut to size and reinstalled the petcock over top. I will most likely go that way again for the petcocks. for the fuel gauge I got lucky and there was a thread on nut for it & a frozen juice lid fit perfect. But I had the rubber in my head for the XS fuel gauge port and was probably getting a little monomaniacal. One of the best services provided here is calling me on it! Do we have a smiley for inserting and or removing ones head from - never mind we don't need that visual. I hope to post some progress over this up-coming weekend. Thanks all!

[Sol]

I am not going to wait for the weekend!

I got sick of getting prepared, putting other stuff first, and waiting for the manual.
So I just went and pulled my tank and air-box. It turns out there is a uni-filter in the box - hence the stickers. As it happens someone had already put a bob tail on my snorkel. Do those things look like the face grabbers from alien the movie to any one else? "No it's ok; you just remove it like..."

No really that came when I found:
The air box was not secured to the carbs, #3 was not even fully on. And I am finding other loose and mismatched stuff all over. my favorite example of this is the front engine mount! I will leave pulling the carbs for friday, my sweetie is going to take me out tonight and I don't want to be covered in motorcycle gore when she gets here. The kind of thing I try not to do, but don't always succeed at...
Catch ya all later!

[natemoen]

For the rtv you just put a little line of it on the sealing surface and bolt it together.

[Sol]

Rtv

Perhaps I am operating under a misconception. when using the RTV to seal the fuel level sensor port:

(A) would I be reinstalling the fuel sensor and subjecting it to the same treatment as the rest of the tank?

(B) Finding some sort of ridged backing material to produce a blank cover.

I was assuming (B) as to not damage whatever is attached to the float arm that opens/closes the circuit.

If I am making this more involved then it needs to be then I am on board with (A).

I will admit my first thought of using a backing "plate" made of plywood was not too swift for my situation - though it could be made to work. A flat plastic rectangle would be easier for me to work, could be sealed with RTV as suggested and would not be overly affected by various solutions. That is if I where to proceed with (B). Now that I think of it, a large weather tight KO seal for electrical boxes might do the trick as well.

Or perhaps less thinking an more doing!

[fredintoon]

- - - (B) Finding some sort of ridged backing material to produce a blank cover. - - -

Hi Sol,
yes! (B) is the correct answer!
Use a 1/8" thick metal plate to seal the hole. Use the stock gasket to seal the plate to the tank. The plate need not be carved to the same fancy shape as the level sender, a rectangle with the holes in the right place will do.
Same trick on the fuel tap holes but this time use a flat gasket. If you truly can't find gasket material, there's always an old inner tube to cut up.

[Sol]

Ok

Same page achieved.
I will find something to fit the bill I'm sure.
Thanks!

On another note:
Most carb posts state that separating the carbs not necessary (good), but since the T's are rubberized does that mean they are not affected by carb cleaner? Or are they removable in a manner I am not visualizing?

On another topic:
Pulled the carbs yesterday and opened #4 up just enough to take a look around. Knock on wood but these don't seem to have the level of complexity (# of parts) as the GL carbs.
I also drained the tank, and generally set up my "Work Space".
I should go Easter calls.
Have a good one!

[jwhughes3]

Yamaha cleaner

Sol - I think to be safe to the rubber bits you need to be using the Yamaha brand carb cleaner - expensive I hear but cheaper than replacing all the rubber.


John

[natemoen]

Spray carb cleaner isn't going to hurt the rubber bits, it is the dip stuff (but the yamaha brand is ok) that hurts the rubber stuff.

[Sol]

dip is not in the plans

Dip is not a part of the plan. Sorry, I had not specified. Thanks for the warning though, it never hurts!
I am checking my assumtions; as in general rubber and spray carb cleaner is a no-no, however on-site instructions seem to imply the rubberized "T"'s do not require to be removed for cleaning. I inferred this from mentions of not having to split the carbs from the rack in order to clean, and that the "T"'s appear to be removed in that manner. It looks like I also have a reply that the "T"'s are spray resistant.
Thanks!

I will try to get some photos of my carb diaphrams next time. I'm sure I'm being a worry wort but there is a bit of cracking around the edge of the one I inspected. It is probably "normal" and operable but not !perfect!. no apparent holes or anything. I had thought I read something about a spray rubber fix but now can't find it and I am probably blending posts in my head.

speaking of promising photos: sorry the tank shots baffled my range finder, and I left the flexi cam at work in my hurry to just get out Friday.

Happy Easter!

[Sol]

A little miffed at bike bandit:

I am I little miffed at bike bandit. I had ordered my speedo cable and mirrors from there under the websites implication that the parts suggested might actually fit my/our bikes. As it turns out this was not the case. Of course the return policy is that the part must not be opened. I emailed them; and as I did not trash the packaging, I hope this does not disqualify me for re-compesation for their mistake. I am disappointed.

On an up note: in the hour of daylight I get after work I got my second hand speedo on. I had to rob a bulb from the tach that came with it: good thing I checked. I was going to plug the tach in too as a test for when I get to fire it up, but it would not have connected up well (could be done but would have left too many light bulbs with out a home for the moment). It is probably just a poor connection anyway. Then I found out the cable had the wrong end and was too short. Humm. Then I tried the mirrors. The package says "Yamaha 10M Available" and has finer threads. Deigned. And on that note I got a call from work, “The alarm got tripped, go check it out”. And so the sun sets over Tucson this evening.

[natemoen]

Hopefully you can get the right cable.

[Sol]

Thanks.

I'm sure the right cable is around somewhere, but It is just a bummer to think you are prepared and have what you need only to find out otherwise.

No reply from the bandit yet.

But I did go get a front fender from the post office. that will wait till later though. mechanicals before cosmetics, function over form for the moment.
Thanks for the support

[Sol]

a little at a time

slow doings, but I did get to play with the crabs for about an hour today.
I have most of 2,3,&4 disassembled the exception being 2 out of 3 pilot jets seem to be a little stripped. I did not really want to get into it at that time so a little PB blaster and moved on. I figure another round after work and we can get down to fun with solvents. They don't look too gummed up at least. I lost the light and did not get all 4 diaphrams out for a photo shoot, but they look comparable in general condition as the diaphram shown in carbs 101 so I figure I'm just being over sensitive. Have a good weekend if I don't see you friday!

[natemoen]

Glad your moving along! Those pilot jets seem to often be a problem.

[Sol]

In this case it appears to be a problem 3 out of 4 times.

Friday, I pulled apart the #1 carb. Now with the exception of 3 out of 4 pilot jets we are fully disassembled. I'm going to see if the search function yields any tips, and if the rebuild kits might have replacements or not. Thanks for the interest!