What did you do to your bike today?

[motoman]

My XJ1100 has been leaking oil from the neutral switch and marking her territory wherever I park. I think she's jealous and was trying to pretend to be a Harley to get my attention but the switch finally shorted out and the neutral light stayed on all the time.

I popped in a spare neutral switch and fixed the light and the leak. That was annoying.

There was a discussion on Facebook that got me wondering about the fuel level specification. The fine manual says it's 3mm +/- 1mm below the mixing chamber body but the picture in the book shows the level below the upper float bowl lip by the screw and washer. That's roughly 4mm to 6mm below the mixing chamber.

I pulled the carbs and reset the floats from a tight 23mm to a loose 23mm and they're right at 4mm from the mixing chamber instead of 5mm. (shrug) It still runs like a scalded dog

Nice work there 3Phase re-setting those floats, considering having to pull that carb bank to do so. That 4mm fuel level setting is perfect.....for here at 5,000ft. elev.. From your statement, seems to be fine for your location at sea level also....go figure. Of course, getting running fuel levels identical on all four IS the key to a very smooth running motor with all four cyls. doing the same 'work' at any given rpm. That's the part that has one removing and tweaking float level many a time to get those fuel levels identical on all four carbs with bike at an idle, which myself, I FINIALLY succeded in doing just prior to my crash(totaled ST1100..and myself) back in June 2015.

[3Phase]

Nice work there 3Phase re-setting those floats, considering having to pull that carb bank to do so. That 4mm fuel level setting is perfect.....for here at 5,000ft. elev.. From your statement, seems to be fine for your location at sea level also....go figure. Of course, getting running fuel levels identical on all four IS the key to a very smooth running motor with all four cyls. doing the same 'work' at any given rpm. That's the part that has one removing and tweaking float level many a time to get those fuel levels identical on all four carbs with bike at an idle, which myself, I FINIALLY succeded in doing just prior to my crash(totaled ST1100..and myself) back in June 2015.

It's not really difficult to R&R the XJ carburetors but there are a few tricks and extra parts to remove before you do it.

Sometime last year at a tight 23mm spec:




A couple of days ago after ~20K miles and no change from the tight 23mm spec:



A couple of days ago and reset to a loose 23mm spec:




The fine manual:

[motoman]

Nicely done.....and all four even!

[3Phase]

Nicely done.....and all four even!

Thank yew.

I'm not sure where Yamaha took the 3mm measurement.

I'll check tomorrow in the daylight and see if measuring from that funky tab/flange thing on the carburetor body directly above the float bowl screw will put their 3mm in the range shown in the drawing, nothing else makes sense except a typo in the specs or they drew the wrong marks on the illustration.

[3Phase]

A Tale Of Two Millimeters

That was interesting, there is as tab/flange on all XS1100 and XJ1100 carburetor bodies as shown in the illustration, it's a step up in the carburetor body on the inlet side and, fortunately, you can't really get a measurement from that point so there's no way to flub the measurement.

I set a float gauge to 4mm and took some pictures.

The written 3mm spec is closer to the actual 4mm fuel levels measured from the carburetor body when the float height is set to 23mm.

The illustrated 3mm spec is closer to the illustration when it's measured from the float bowl casting step.

Based on the fuel levels I measured with the floats set to 23mm, I'll take a wild guess that 3mm is measured from the carburetor body, not the float bowl casting step, but it seems to me that it would be a little high if it went all the way up to the 2mm upper limit.

I'll reset the float heights to get a 2mm fuel level and see if it runs or dumps fuel out the air box.



XJ1100 4mm from carburetor body with 2mm and 3mm marked





XJ1100 4mm from float bowl casting step





Step-up in the 1982 XJ100J and 1979 XS100SF carburetor body inlets and, yes,
I do know that the washers are missing on the '82 float bowls, they're working spares










The illustration once more with feeling from the fine manual

[mack]

Levels

I always use the lowest part of the carb body where you had your caliper in the top photo, and have never had them leak with mikuni seats and metal on metal needles. I did a running test at various rpms with my LH and marked the levels from idle to 5.5 k. Of course the bike was on the center stand so it wasn't under load but it confirmed with the assistance of TC's cutaway that, plus or minus 2mm from the lowest edge of the carb body ensures that the pilot jet is always feed. I believe that there was 4mm to spare. My thoughts were that once your into the mains over 5.5 k there is lots of fuel, and the bowls recover amazingly fast so when you chop the throttle back, the pilot cct has plenty to provide the smooth transition when the butterflies start to close. Works for me anyways. If PB was still working I could retrieve the photo's I did.

[mack]

levels

to clarify. I shoot for 3mm down but anything from 2-4 mm is going to work as designed.

[3Phase]

Here you go. I marked the pilot tower fuel levels and the pilot jet location at the bottom of its screwdriver slot on the jet inlet face.

The carburetor body 'lip' used to check the fuel levels externally with the clear hose goes away at the carburetor inlet. I had to measure the float bowl gasket surface offset to 'zero' the float gauge so I could square the gauge, then measure and mark the pilot tower fuel levels at 2mm, 3mm, and 4mm.

The internal fuel levels are 4.5mm, 5.5mm, and 6.6mm from the float bowl gasket surface that's used to set the float height.


XJ1100 float bowl gasket surface offset 2.5mm





XJ1100 pilot tower fuel levels marked 2m to 4mm with jet height

[JeffH]

Ah, six month delay is over

February 11, 2018

As for me,
I'm running behind on my Florida Rally Riding Machine wrenching


Was planning on taking my new 11E to Florida but hitting a few snags. New tires are mounted and balanced but surprised to find the left front wheel bearing knotchy and not good. So working on that unexpected twist. Also found the grease in the rear axle and bearings to be like tan / brown sloppy like wet mud. Woops, another unexpected twist. So adding rear right bearing & seal into the work plan.

Have flushed the front brake fluid and flushed the forks. Watery tan brake fluid and the watery greenish brown fork oil, well both were going to create problems if left in there too much longer. So new fluids up there. Test ride will surely show if I got the right fluid in the right reservoir. lol With the findings up front, a Rear brake flush is needed too. Used the tool kit cable to remove the rear axle so since the cable hooks to the FD and left shock I'll have to jockey around to get the cable off and remove the FD for inspection and greasing.

Bike also needs switches and all electric connections cleaned. btw: new oil & filter and new Royal Purple in Mid & FD already done. New to me XS11E and if time doesn't allow to "do it right"

Jeff

FAST FORWARD
Update: Aug10
That post was six months ago. Frightening it has sat like that for so long.
Certainly didn't use that bike during the Florida Rally.
Finally getting back to work on going through this new to me machine.
Goal this time is to ride this bike up to North Carolina for our Vintage Yamaha Rally at the Iron Horse Sept 28-30th.
I'm happy to report that after six month delay I did remove the Final Drive.

Was some grease at the FD end but NO Grease on the front

Looks like somebody had put some grease via the Zerk fitting but of course that did nothing but make a mess at the FD end of the swing arm

Flushed and bled the rear brakes today too. Next is Carb check, Valves check and clean ALL the electrical connections.
Then bike should freshened up to ride to the VYR I-H Rally.
After that, start on long overdue 10K service, check stator and put Geezer regulator on my other 78E. yippie

Jeff

[MPittma100]

Xs1100E

Jeff,

It looks like taking that driveline apart was a good idea. I would guess that may be the first time since new. Looks like this E will make it to the VYR. Good job.

I was having a little less fun last week. Worked on two BMWs (K1200GT, K1200LT) and one Honda ST1100. The Honda will make the rally.

[madmax-im]

Jeff,

It looks like taking that driveline apart was a good idea. I would guess that may be the first time since new. Looks like this E will make it to the VYR. Good job.

I was having a little less fun last week. Worked on two BMWs (K1200GT, K1200LT) and one Honda ST1100. The Honda will make the rally.

As you know..I love the ST11's... great bikes..solid platforms and a good overall machines...not exceptional but very good...didnt know you had one...
Jeff..great job...you do what everyone should be doing to these bikes before you trust your life on a 40 year old machine...Most ppl here do not have the means to do it properly...

[kboehringer]

XS Friends,
In keeping with the theme.... What I'm doing today is a valve adjustment.



My newest project has 6/8 valves out of adjustment. Doesn't appear that:

1. The owner EVER cleaned the motor
2. The valves were EVER touched.

Like Jeff, I'm trying to make the VYR with this machine although the chances are slim. Also like Jeff, the rear has to be pulled apart and properly inspected and lubricated. All of these systems and sub-systems have to be taken care of to assure SAFE and RELIABLE driving.

[Radioguylogs]

Oil Leak with Easy Fix

In the mid-summer, I developed an oil leak at the bottom of the stator cover on my SF. If I rode for a half-hour, 2-3 drops would accumulate at the bottom of the cover.

We know the possible causes are:
(a) galley plug o-ring
(b) crank seal.

I bought both parts and procrastinated....until now.

Last night I pulled the cover, and I could see it was the galley plug leaking.

This fix took 15 minutes because I was careful to wipe everything super clean.

Moral: Don't be afraid of this fix, it's super easy.

[skids]

You can’t argue with succcess.

[MPittma100]

Confidence

In the mid-summer, I developed an oil leak at the bottom of the stator cover on my SF. If I rode for a half-hour, 2-3 drops would accumulate at the bottom of the cover.

We know the possible causes are:
(a) galley plug o-ring
(b) crank seal.

I bought both parts and procrastinated....until now.

Last night I pulled the cover, and I could see it was the galley plug leaking.

This fix took 15 minutes because I was careful to wipe everything super clean.

Moral: Don't be afraid of this fix, it's super easy.

Mike,

Good advice on confidence to make this repair. Let me add: Don't be afraid even if it is not easy. Plenty of helpful repair procedures here on channel 11 for everything XS related.

Mike P