What did you do to your bike today?

[JeffH]

Curious, what size / brand front master are you running??

To work properly everything has to be very precise and balanced. If the calipers aren't say + - 1/4 mm within center of the rotor or they top & bottom not evenly aligned then they won't work right. As in pulsate or do other crazy things.

I've got 16mm oem replacement with the original calipers perfectly aligned so I'm not expecting any problems or issues at all with my setup.

Getting your system tweaked to stop the pulsating shouldn't be to big a deal. Pulsating is either from physical misalignment or the master & lines are holding constant equal pressure on the pistons. or a combo of both going on.

Jeff

[IanDMacDonald]

Seems nobody posting much here lately?


It has been a long - hot - humid summer so I've been passing the time by WHITTLING
Got a little carried away and just kept whittling. On the rotors. Started off with 13 lbs 8 oz hanging up front and got it whittled down to 4 lb 4 oz
A reduction of 9 pounds.

But now I got "NO BRAKES"

Have already cleaned calipers and pistons and installed new 'O' ring kits.
Got the shimming figured out today (came with 7mm spacer but needed 8.25mm spacer to get calipers more centered over the rotors).

XSSE is coming up in a few weeks so i will need brakes.
Plus some gentle slow n' easy brake applications for a few hundred miles to get the rotors set for use.
Got a new front master too since the old one was not reliable in the spooge arena.



those nifty running lights Kurt installed sure work great at night too.

Jeff

I have those wave rotors on my XS. I love them, and I hate them. I'm using the R6 Blue pots on my bike (thus the bigger rotors). The combination of the rotors and blue pots make you think the bike will throw you over the handlebars if you grab too much lever!!! However, I don't have them aligned properly, so when I grab the front brake, it gives you the feeling that the rotors are warped, as it pulsated very bad. Aligning them properly is out of my skill-set, so I just use the rear brake, and the front brake sparingly.

[kboehringer]

I hope Santa gives me a set of those...

XSSE is coming up in a few weeks so i will need brakes. . . . . . Plus some gentle slow n' easy brake applications for a few hundred miles to get the rotors set for use.
Jeff

WOW! Those are really COOL! I need some!!!!!

That weight reduction should be immediately noticeable on your first ride!

I'm gonna ask Santa for a full set of those!!!!!!!!

KURT

P.S. Please tell Santa/Nancy where to get them!

[JeffH]

Seems nobody posting much here lately?


It has been a long - hot - humid summer so I've been passing the time by WHITTLING
Got a little carried away and just kept whittling. On the rotors. Started off with 13 lbs 8 oz hanging up front and got it whittled down to 4 lb 4 oz
A reduction of 9 pounds.

But now I got "NO BRAKES"

Have already cleaned calipers and pistons and installed new 'O' ring kits.
Got the shimming figured out today (came with 7mm spacer but needed 8.25mm spacer to get calipers more centered over the rotors).

XSSE is coming up in a few weeks so i will need brakes.
Plus some gentle slow n' easy brake applications for a few hundred miles to get the rotors set for use.
Got a new front master too since the old one was not reliable in the spooge arena.



those nifty running lights Kurt installed sure work great at night too.

Jeff

[nzemke]

Replaced the small junk china knock off 1:1 digital tachometer. Not sure why I keep entertaining the notion that ebay china crap will be any good for me or the bike. On the other hand I picked up the 79 XS1100 sf round gauge for 20 including shipping. And it is SUPER clean. And wish that the guy bending the rear hoop wasn't flaking on me so much >.< I want that done so I can go through and repaint the frame poor thing looks like crap with the frame scratched up slightly sanded...Still need to take the rear wheel off and replace the tire.

[mack]

First good

riding weather this year in the last couple days. Still a lot of sand on the road as it has been very dry up here. Took the SF out for a good ride yesterday but 100 miles from home I started to get an intermittent subtle vibration in the left highway peg. Didn't feel anything at the drives peg but I could feel it when I put my feet forward.Stopped for a break and looked over the bike for anything loose and discovered a small leak at the middle drive cover. Had no oil with me so I nursed it home in fifth and checked the level. The unit was way down in hypoid. Retightened all the bolts today and topped up the levels and took it for another scoot to see if the vibration was gone and it was. Funny how in tune you get with these bikes!

[BA80]

Voltage at idle hangs right about 11.8. I rode it out to Owasso the other day and the turn signals refused to even come on, emergency flasher worked fine though. Since then the signals have started working again.

There is a big difference between XJ and XS alternators. This one jumps up to 13 - 13.5 off idle.

[XJOK2PLAY]

Gimme a break. That's a given. Besides, as I said it runs fine down the road, the only issue is at idle.




I do need to check that. However, as it idles the RPM slowly drops over a few minutes then it just dies.

The tach IS all over the place though. Something else to check. Thanks

Greg,
My Maxim used to do those same two things. Another thing it also did- turn signals at idle would flash fine on the right side, but would just stay on and not flash on the left. It would idle, then stall, like yours. Ran great down the road. Was a handful to ride stoplight to stoplight.

Checked voltage at idle compared to 3k rpm. 11.2 at idle. Went through every connection, every ground... no luck.
My tach would bounce wildly all over the place, too.

Cody and I decided to look at the alternator. Pulled the stator out and turned it over. It had been hot, and all the resin was cracked up.

Replaced that, solved all the issues, and voltage at idle then was 12.5. Tach was perfect, turn signals worked perfectly on both sides.

I know about the differences between XJ and XS charging systems, but might be worth a look see? JAT.

That was also back when I still used the stock thermal flasher, too.

[BA80]

Greg, check your fuel lines to make sure the carbs aren't intermittently running dry.

Gimme a break. That's a given. Besides, as I said it runs fine down the road, the only issue is at idle.

Also is the voltage for the TCI staying up while at idle ?

I do need to check that. However, as it idles the RPM slowly drops over a few minutes then it just dies.

The tach IS all over the place though. Something else to check. Thanks

[Schming]

O-rings all there and not broken.



I had that thought too but as I said I swapped out the carb body and when I did the butterfly shaft had to be swapped. The seals aren't new but good. I put the best 2 from both carbs in there. Swapping bodies made NO difference.

Greg, check your fuel lines to make sure the carbs aren't intermittently running dry.

This morning I fired the G up and put on my gear but by the time I got my gloves on the bike sputtered, popped a lot and died, wouldn't start or fire at all so off came the gear and I remembered when I came back from my shakedown ride the fuel in the lines was bubbling 'cause they are too long and laying on the engine near the starter. I didn't realize the starter cover got that hot so I tucked the extra up under the tank and created an air trap that starved the carbs this morning. Dropped them back down and fired right up.

Also is the voltage for the TCI staying up while at idle ?

[BA80]

had that same issue with mixture screw WAY out on #4 of mine a few yrs. back. A carb removal and finding #4 idle mix screw o-ring fubared and missing the teeny flat washer for o-ring. Replaced those pieces and mixture screw easily tuned in at approx. 2 1/4 out from seated like or very similar to other three mixture screws...........JAT.

O-rings all there and not broken.

Are the B-fly shaft seals new ?

I had that thought too but as I said I swapped out the carb body and when I did the butterfly shaft had to be swapped. The seals aren't new but good. I put the best 2 from both carbs in there. Swapping bodies made NO difference.

[Schming]

Jat

Been into then carbs 3 or 4 times. Runs great going down the road but at stoplights not so much unless you keep clearing the cyls........like an old hardly.

Idles perfect for a few minutes then just freakin dies.

And #1 needs the mixture screw turned WAY out to get a decent idle. Thought it was a bad carb body but I swapped it out and still the same.

Are the B-fly shaft seals new ?

[MarkD]

So-- today I finally started up my F. In the fall, I did the usual winterizing, which includes fogging the cylinders. Not to make anyone who posted today about the early carbs being a pain to tune jealous, but it started right up, and idled very smoothly. After a 20 minute run around the area, it still was idling really well. No, you can't have my carbs.

[motoman]

Been into then carbs 3 or 4 times. Runs great going down the road but at stoplights not so much unless you keep clearing the cyls........like an old hardly.

Idles perfect for a few minutes then just freakin dies.

And #1 needs the mixture screw turned WAY out to get a decent idle. Thought it was a bad carb body but I swapped it out and still the same.

had that same issue with mixture screw WAY out on #4 of mine a few yrs. back. A carb removal and finding #4 idle mix screw o-ring fubared and missing the teeny flat washer for o-ring. Replaced those pieces and mixture screw easily tuned in at approx. 2 1/4 out from seated like or very similar to other three mixture screws...........JAT.

[Bigfoot]

Yeah she is. Other than trying to make me a fireball going down the freeway, it is running good. lol