What did you do to your bike today?
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One more thing to take your eyes off the road, lol. My voltmeter on my Triumph has me taking my eyes off the road quite a bit. The way I see it, if I'm losing oil pressure, damage is already done. But, I installed the same gauge on my GS850. -
I removed the temporary gauge I had set up for testing/monitoring the oil pressure and I wired in a Low Oil Pressure warning LED for my XJ11.
Picture

Video
Youtube | New XJ1100J Low Oil Pressure Warning LED 0:19

My first idea was for a gauge and a light but the gauge fitting won't fit the threads in the engine case.

An adapter was necessary.

Protect the plastic oil line with clear PVC tubing and mount the gauge.


Oil pressure at fast idle.

Oil pressure at idle.
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She sat for about 3 years. She runs well, but the plug on the end of the tensioner is gone, so she spews oil pretty good when I start her up. I plugged the hole with some RTV just to keep any crap out while I am working; I am not sure it would hold up to actually running the engine or not and I don't feel like testing it.
I have since ordered an auto-tensioner and that should be here on Saturday, along with her new tires (the ones on it are from 2001
). My local shop actually had the plug boots on hand, so I replaced them already.
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Welcome! How long since it has run?Leave a comment:
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Way to go, that's sticking with it. Now just take your time checking and setting the valve clearances and you'll be stylin'!Leave a comment:
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Yesterday....assembled sealed beam into bucket. Now when I get the valves valved I can drive Dora home and get her out of my workplace. Boss Happy, Body shop manager happy, Dora happy, Puskrat happy.Leave a comment:
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Yeah, now the licensing is gone, "They" can put whatever red stuff suits the bottom line in a bottle and someone will buy it. It's really not all that critical for motorcycle forks and shock absorbers but car and light truck transmissions and power steering will self-destruct if it's wrong.Leave a comment:
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What I did today: Brought her home!
Then changed the oil and plugs, and realized that the plug boots are garbage, and the cam tensioner was leaking
I also disassembled the Fair Warning fuzzbuster that came with my Windjammer so I can re-use the plate for something else
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CAPTON , I do use marine grease in the steering head bearings and other points of interest, swing arm and FD splines to mention a few more.The BSA bikes in the late 50's had a Zerk on the head, which would take half a big tube of grease to fill up. And then, when you wanted to check the bearings, you would have to contend with it all. Better to use some Moly wheel bearing grease on the bearings, and NEVER submerge the bike in water deep enough to get water in there.
CZ
Tell me please, how did you know ? ? ?Leave a comment:
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The BSA bikes in the late 50's had a Zerk on the head, which would take half a big tube of grease to fill up. And then, when you wanted to check the bearings, you would have to contend with it all. Better to use some Moly wheel bearing grease on the bearings, and NEVER submerge the bike in water deep enough to get water in there.
CZLeave a comment:
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Bonz, the Dexron patent and license are dead but use it while you can for your forks. Like Ford Type H and Type A, they're not just pining for the Fords, they are an ex-fluid.
And synthetic oil is a waste of money in an XS/XJ engine.
When we did the Durango rally in 2011, I used up my Redline 10W-40 stash to fill Columbo for the long, hot, trip through the Navajo Desert and I brought my last three quarts along as spares. That was after 50 or 60K on the rebuilt engine and clutch with the '750 drive and running on whatever flavor of dino HDEO was on sale at Wallyworld. I think it was also the trip that did in my first '750 drive.
The clutch didn't slip at all, not even once and that included some extreme pulls with a full load of luggage and a lot of high speed runs. I finally had to replace the clutch when I got back from the XSSE rally (2014?) after I quite literally burned it up using it like a torque converter but that was a couple of years later and it was a completely deliberate act.
If your clutch slips when you add synthetic oil then your clutch is failing.
Fix it.
New Yamaha clutch plates are ~$80 for eight plates, Barnett springs are ~$20.
Switching back to dino squeezins' may seem to fix the slip but it's still slipping, just not noticeably. Wet clutches are designed to slip and just dump the little bit of extra waste heat from minor slippage into the engine oil. You won't notice it and it'll run like that for years, maybe decades before it gets noticeable again and you replace it.
The clutch handled the really-synthetic synthetic Redline oil but what about the engine? Man! It absolutely loved it! Columbo guzzled down two quarts from my traveling stash before we reached Flagstaff on the first night and gulped the last quart going through the desert. That was close to a hundred dollars of oil before I reached Durango. Yes, the power was great and the engine had no problem with the desert heat and heavy load but neither did any of the other bikes using $10/gallon mineral oil.
Even assuming the Redline folks were correct and oil consumption would have decreased after a few more hundred-dollar oil changes and gotten under control, there's still the short oil change interval. Buying synthetic oil for an XS/XJ11 isn't like buying gold bathroom fixtures, it's like buying gold toilet paper!Leave a comment:
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