Iridium - who knew?

[dbeardslee]

That's an excellent question, Chop. E3's cross reference shows them as a replacement for both the bp6es, as well as the bpr6es. I'd be willing to bet they're resistor plugs, but then who knows?

[trbig]

I just got one of these to do easier spark diagnosis as the miles pile up this summer....

Does the Harbor Freight do-hicky work?

You simply attach the electrode side into the existing spark plug boot. Then stick your tongue into the supplied boot on the tool and crank the motor over. You'll know immediately if there's good spark.

The spark gauge is.. One eyebrow twitching.. weak spark. Two eyebrows twitch and eyes cross.. moderate to questionable spark. If your toes curl and your eyebrows catch on fire... you have good spark. You'll need to give them some grow-back time to check the other three.


Tod

[rman]

As I understand the physics, more resistance can actually make the spark hotter, as the coil has to push past the resistance, so you get a build up as it were, then the dam lets go and you get a shorter, hotter spark.

Sorry, not to argue with a guru but the voltage will drop across the resistor meaning some voltage will be lost (turned into heat) You would then get less spark.

I also think that a larger gap would requier more voltage and therfore a larger spark, only question is if the spark would develop in the proper amount of time for proper combustion.

just my 2 cent

[dbeardslee]

We'll find out Monday. I couldn't stand the suspense and ordered some NGK non-resistor caps. There's nothing wrong with the ones that are on there, so changing them for the nons should give a good indication of what the actual difference is at the rear wheel. Not going to be a very scientific test, but I'm pretty well calibrated to the way she runs. I suppose I should also put the colortune on it before and after to see if there's any noticeable difference in what's going on in the combustion chamber.

[DGXSER]

Hey Doug, this one is way outside my realm of knowledge, but I know I have read on here recently where someone mixed up something with the resistor and plug and fried their TCI IIRC.

Not saying your going down that path, just making sure you have thought of it and know it WON'T happen to you!

[dbeardslee]

Don - I appreciate your concern. I've got resistor plugs (BPR6EIX) where the stock calls for non-resistor (BP6ES), so I'm just putting the resistor in a different place. Right now I've got two resistors - plugs and caps. Shouldn't be a problem, but I appreciate the heads up. I hate when I fry my TCI .

[Crazcnuk]

It's not the voltage that's important, it's how fat the pulse goes through, however I think that part of the reason for the ballast resistor is to reduce the voltage at the coils.

The sparkplug gap is actually huge resistance. and the wider the gap, the more it resists. It take more voltage to jump a spark across a larger gap, so the larger the gap, the bigger, hotter the spark.

However, if your coils can't provide the volts, you won't get any spark.

Theoretically, if you put Mike's 45,000 volt coils on your bike you should be able to open the gap up. However, I don't know the math to calculate how much.

[dbeardslee]

Craz - When I first installed hot coils, I opened the gap on the bp6es's I was running from .032" to .035" - the spark was more energetic but not enough to burn the electrode (the major indicator that the gap is too close). The bpr6eix come pre gapped at .035", and they tell you not to monkey with it as the electrode is small and brittle and is easily broken. The thing about the stock plugs is that they foul too easily.

I was amazed when I pulled the #1 plug the other day. I had the floats a little high, and it really sooted up the plug. At the electrode there was a perfect shiny spot on the very tip of the electrode, and it was still making good spark. I know from experience that the stockers would have been sending up all kinds of signals that they wanted to be cleaned, but not the iridiums - they just kept plugging along (sorry - couldn't resist the pun ). I pulled the carbs yesterday and lowered (running orientation) the floats by a 'heavy' millimeter on all four carbs, and after an extended putt-putt run, they're all looking like they're supposed to.

[Axel]

0k Caps

Where did you order the 0k caps . I'm having a heck of a time sourcing them

[dbeardslee]

Smythe Automotive (local outfit) was having them sent from another store that was showing four in stock. When they went to ship them to the store by me, they found that they actually had zero in stock. Not to be deterred, my intrepid auto parts guy called NGK (who still have some left in stock) and they shipped them. Supposed the be here monday, so we'll see.

The NGK stock number for the non-resistor caps is 8381 and the part number is LZFH. My advice would be to go to your local autoparts store and see if they can order them from NGK like my local guy did. Or you can order them from Mikes XS for $3.50 a pop.

[xschop]

sparky

I have been running straight automotive wires with the Dyna coils for @ 4 yrs now and haven't burned my TCI. I believe the resistor Caps and plugs are only for radio interference (and I'm not so sure that it only affects AM frequencies or not).....That being said, from all the posts I have read, the ballast resistor on the frame (early bikes) or the extra coil resistance (late bikes), is what prevents frying of the TCI.....someone re-school me.

[DiverRay]

Chop, You are correct. The radio interference is in MOST frequencies, and CAN be heard in FM as well as AM bands. The new cars ALL use "resister wires" as well as plugs. With the Mikes coils and NGK 0 Ohm caps, I run .035 on my resister plugs. I'm using the Bosch platinum plugs now, but I'm not really happy with them. I will try the IR plugs at the next change.
The BALLAST resister, or the resistance in the coil PRIMARY windings are what effect the TCI boxes.

[Stralya]

Cleaning

I've had iridium plugs installed for about 8k and today one of them gave up the ghost. It's fouled I think but I'm not sure how I should clean it. Any tips?

[Axel]

cleaning iridium

I use carb cleaner with a soft wire brush . I scrape off the carbon on the bottom of the threads with a knife but don't go anywhere near the brittle iridium point .

You may have a bad plug but I hear these do foul easy with a rich mixture .

If you are fouling them - a color-tune and carb sync may be in order .

A ignition system problem may seem like this . Check and clean your spark plug caps . Cut the spark plug wire about 1/2 inch shorted and re-thread into the cap . Then there is always the wire itself could be burnt or compromised in some way . There is a way to replace them in the stock coils but instead I got MikesXS coils that the wires can be replaced .

All joints that involve wires I coat with di-electric grease to keep moisture out and limit corrosion .

[XS1100 Newbie]

You guys are right about the ballast resister. They were initialy used to lower the voltage to the coil. Without them you would fry your points. (Points?, wow i am really dating myself now.) I am not sure how that would affect the TCI, but you would have a full 12 volts at the coil without the resistor, so maybe the TCI reads the extra voltage somehow. That would bring to question the removal of the resistor with new mikes coils. You would still be introducing a full 12 volts to the coils, and if that is what affects the TCI, then it would affect it with the new coils as well. I think that all the components on the TCI should be able to handle a full 12 volts, and remember that the lower the voltage, the higher the amperage, which means more heat, and the need for heavier wire to carry it. Remember the old 6 volt wire in cars, it was huge. I think the resistors in the plugs, and or caps would be the thing that would make the difference to the TCI. I'll have to call a guy i know, and ask some specific questions. Also, i might mention that Chrysler used a ballast resister with electronic ignition, so i am not sure of the use except to lowed the voltage to the coil. You also need to make sure whether the coil has an internal resistor built in as some did in cars. You used to have to stay away from blasting zones, because the old non resisted copper wires would set of blasting caps. WOW, that's a lot of leakage.