Iridium - who knew?

[GARTHXS]

me too!

I am currently running stock plugs but had the iridium plugs before and I will get some more

[dbeardslee]

I check and clean my plugs pretty regularly, and last week I rejetted the carbs and readjusted. Also installed the 750FD mod, and for the last several days I've been putting around at very low rpms to see what it does for my mileage. I'm sure most of you know what that generally does to plugs - almost a formula for fouling. I had the mixture a tad bit rich on #1 and it was blacker and sootier than I've ever seen one. That little sucker was still firing like nobody's business. The other three were perfect - absolutely no sign of fouling. I went 1/2 turn in on the mixture on #1, and it's looking fine now too even with the putt-putt treatment it's been getting. I thought about it a while before I dropped $7.50 per plug, but now they're the only plug for me.

[DiverRay]

I am running the NON-RESISTOR caps on my wires. They do NOT come in the "long" length like the ones in 2&3, but they DO work. It makes it easier to run plugs, as I just get the resistor plugs and still get a good spark.

[xschop]

IR plugs

I've been watching you guys' replies here, because I have been going thru a set of BPR6ES plugs every season. I was wondering if it was the Dyna coil's high voltage burning them up, I also am running straight automotive wires (no resistor caps). The Bike is the 79F with the resistor on the frame. I drained out the old gas for the lawn mower and put in fresh 91 octane (no acetone this time) and thoroughly cleaned the carbs. After all this, I fired it up and she ran like crap, with a backfire. So I figured the plugs were fouled again. Anyways I put in the E3.46 plugs that another member suggested and my bike fired right up without the choke! I am just curious if the Stock NGK plugs can handle the extra volts and if the E3.46 plugs are going to last more than one summer....If they don't I will try out the IR plugs next......Any input is always welcome.....

[Axel]

Trouble

I'm having trouble tracking down the non-resistor BP6EIX plugs . I will go to non-resistor caps I imagine .

[Axel]

Hmm

Chop - Arent you supossed to bypass the resistor on the coil upgrades ? Could this be having some kind of effect on your plugs ? JAT

[xschop]

resistor on frame

I have the RED dyna coils, and was told to get them and not remove the Factory frame resistor because it could burn the Computer.....IIRC you can remove it but you have to install the Green Colored Coils......?????

I just got one of these to do easier spark diagnosis as the miles pile up this summer....
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4445

[dbeardslee]

Chop - Where have you been hiding? Haven't seen you on the forum in a while. I've got mikes xs coils with the ballast resistor removed, and they get along great with the iridiums. If your burning them up, you might try opening the gap a little. They say not to 'cause if you ham-fist it you can break off the post, but I have complete confidence in your manual dexterity.

Does the Harbor Freight do-hicky work?

On a side issue - has Shell gone to 10% ethanol in your neck-of-the-woods. They did it here, and broke my heart.

[Axel]

Caps

Dyna recommends using the resistor caps on some bikes to protect the ignition module .

[dbeardslee]

I'm having trouble tracking down the non-resistor BP6EIX plugs .

Probably 'cause they don't make them. Did a search for BP6EIX on NGK's site and drew a goose egg.

[xschop]

pluggin away

I just got the do-hicky, I will post results here later. It looks like a bulb is in the middle. Funny you asked , because Shell just removed the 100% gas sign @ 2-3 weeks ago. I just got my bike running and filled up at "On-Cue" where they state 100% gas....I will add some Acetone this weekend. She runs even better with the 3oz/10 gal ratio.... I will pull the E3.46 plugs this weekend and check the color and report back. They are 3 prong-ed and pre gapped.....

[Crazcnuk]

Just a guess, but they should probably be changed every 5 years or so, but many are still out there after 30 years! On most vehicles you change them every time you change your spark plug wires.

If you go to Canadian Tire (for us canadians) they have 3 ratings 0ohm, 1kohm and 5kohm caps.

You can change to the non-resistor caps, then use the more common resistor plugs.

I don't know that it hurts to run both resistor plugs and caps, but it does make your ignition work a little harder, and spark may be slightly reduced at the plug.

The ballast resistor has nothing to do with resistor plugs/caps!

The ballast resistor is used to reduce voltage in the primary circuit of the coils to make them last longer.

The resistor plugs/caps are used to reduce radio interference on your stereo system! You can run without resistor plugs or caps and the bike will run fine.

The gap question is a good one. Point style ignitions usually used a .028-.032 gap. When Electronic ignitions came out most went to the new style 5/8" plugs with .045 gap (or more).

Since then gaps have got even bigger. I just wonder why Yamaha stayed with the small gap on thier electronic ignition? I assume, with the hotter coils, we should be able to open the gap up, but the question is how much?

[Chuckster]

Confusing..

I guess I don't really understand the resistor/non-resistor thing. It doesn't seem intuitive that you would want non-resistor plug caps with resistor plugs. Although I believe you (and I actually have this set-up), why would the engine have to work harder? Inquiring minds want to know...

Chuck

[Crazcnuk]

I don't really understand the physics of it, but originally there were no resistor plugs.

When mfgs started putting radios in cars they discovered that the ignition puts out a lot of interference that shows up as static pulses in the radio output.

They discovered that this interference was not from the ignition pulse itself, but from excess frequencies in the pulse, and that by putting a resistor in the spark plug boot or wire, they could 'trim' the excess off and get rid of the static on the radio.

Later on the started putting the resistor in the spark plug.

When they made our bikes Yamaha was still using resistor caps, but as time went by the industry went to all resistor plugs. So now we have difficulty finding non-resistor plugs.

As I understand the physics, more resistance can actually make the spark hotter, as the coil has to push past the resistance, so you get a build up as it were, then the dam lets go and you get a shorter, hotter spark.

However, this is more work for the coil, and if the coil is not made for this, it can cause premature coil failure.

The ballast resistor is on the 'inlet' side of the coil. The ballast resistor is used to add resistance to the circuit to make the pulse from the TCI sharper as it hits the coil to make the coil put out more spark on the secondary (spark plug) side.

If you don't have the ballast resistor, the opposite happens in that the ignition burns out because it needs the 'backpressure' so to speak.

[xschop]

resistance

I wonder if these E3.46's have a resistor?