Removing the forks cap on an air assisted damper

[LoftCol]

Does anyone have any tips on removing the fork cap on the air assisted forks. There is not much room to get a spanner to fit and apply pressure without it releasing and damaging the clocks. Thanks

[cajun31]

You need to tell everyone what you are working on. Year, model etc.. Why are you wanting to remove them? I looked at your handle in member list and you say you have an xs1100 se, so I am assuming you have a 78 standard model. Better to have the fork/forks off the bike to work on them. Your use of the term spanner indicates you are not located in the United States. When you take the fork caps off they are under a good bit of pressure because of the spring in there. When you loosen them it is best to keep a cloth and one hand on them as you unscrew the cap. Otherwise you will have to watch where it flies too.

[LoftCol]

Sorry, based in the UK, model is a 1979 SF import from the USA, but over the years and previous owners have modified it to a European look. I want to remove the fork caps so that I can change the oil. Air pressure has been released, and I will raise the front end from the floor. I want crack open the caps slightly before I raise it. Just after some tips on the correct tool to use. Thanks for the reply

[DEEBS11]

Raising the bike's front end will take most of the preload off the springs but not all. The air forks are much softer because they use air for pre-load. You can remove them with a larger Crescent wrench but re-installing them may prove to be difficult. Pushing down with your fingers and finding the threads can be tough. You need to be very strong and dexterous. Or just be safe and remove the forks to work on them.

[LoftCol]

Brilliant, not sure which type I have until I get them off, but looking at the photos the one on the right looks very similar to mine, I will follow advice and remove them. I have an adjustable "crescent" spanner that will fit . Really appreciate your help. Cheers

[cajun31]

The reason we advise to remove the forks to work on them is because it allows you more access to it. Depending on how long it's been since the oil was changed you might find that you need to clean the inside of the tube once you get all the internals out and it will also make the job of getting the fork cap back on more flexible. When I say flexible as Deebs stated it takes some pressure pushing down on it and turning it at the same time to get it to catch and hold enough to be able to then use the wrench. The threads are fine and you seriously don't want to cross thread it.

[Schming]

I've found that this task is so much easier when the cap is held protected in a vise and fork tube in hand the feel for the threads is way better. Also alot easier than trying to hold the cap to overcome the spring pressure.

[LoftCol]

Thanks for the suggestions

[jetmechmarty]

I made a tool for this. I sourced a piece of PVC about two feet long and also a cap for it. I cut a rectangular hole in the PVC cap to fit over the air fork cover. Basically, I made a wrench. It gives me the leverage I need to install that air fork cover.

FWIW, I think the air fork is silly and I don't use it. I've raised the fork oil level instead. It accomplishes the same thing or close enough. What I'd like are standard fork covers to fit the Special like the standard has.

[Larrym]

I want to remove the fork caps so that I can change the oil. Air pressure has been released, and I will raise the front end from the floor. I want crack open the caps slightly before I raise it. Just after some tips on the correct tool to use. Thanks for the reply

Umm.... ( •_•)

I've got a 79 Special and I've never..... I mean N-E-V-E-R removed the fork caps to change the fork oil. (_Oo)

I remover the air caps and the Schrader valve then hook up THIS to the air fitting(s)-



Then I remove the lower fork drain bolt (which won't leak out oil cuz it's under suction from inside the fork....) and insert one of THESE with a section of nylon tubing plugged at one end-



Then I remove the suction hose from the top of the fork(s) and connect it to the hose barb/hose at the bottom drain hole and it SUCKS everything out. (^_^)

( I pump the forks a few times just cuz it's a good practice to get amap out....)

THEN I measure out the correct amount of the right viscosity fork out into a clean container and shove the clear nylon tubing in it to the bottom. (O_O)

I change the suction hose BACK to the top of the fork/air fitting and suck it all back up into the fork, yank out the irrigation coupler thingy, and then re-install the drain screw with a new crush washer. (•‿•)

Again, whilst the suction is at the top of the fork/air fitting.... no oil leaks out. Almost totally dripless. (´◡`)

AND if the oil is positively FILTHY? (o_O)

I drain it as previously described but fill it with the correct amount of....lemme think... NOT paint thinner...OH Yeah! "Mineral Spirits". (⁀ᗢ⁀)

Then I go for a 10 mile ride (5 out-5 back) and drain/refill as described above. (─‿─)

Note- If you're doing this just to see if it'll stop a seal from leaking then NOW is the time to use a "Seal Mate" or a copy of one made out of a 1 liter soda bottle.(ʘ‿ʘ)

[jetmechmarty]

Larrym I have RaceTech emulators in mine. Periodically, those caps have to come off.

[DEEBS11]

I have a set of these type forks from one of my parts bikes. The spring is softer and shorter (slightly) with this fork. Also the tube depth is threaded differently, I don't think the 78E type fork top will thread in correctly.