WTB: rear master cylinder for XS1100F

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  • gtem
    Truly XSive
    • May 2023
    • 161
    • Indianapolis

    #16
    Well, an update to my rear brake situation:

    The original master cylinder seemed to be working fine for me, but a pitted rear caliper piston came back to haunt me a few weeks ago, the caliper was gunky and dragging. I ended up installing a new stainless steel piston and new seal, that all seems fine now. *HOWEVER* when I went to bleed the brake there must have been a full moon, because boy did that re-open a can of worms. I could not get the thing to move fluid for the life of me. I finally figured out a way to get it to bleed (some air trapped in the master cylinder perhaps), and then discovered my repaired master cylinder was leaking again. I had bought a spare off of Ranger_xs1100, it obviously also needed a full going through, the bore is only slightly(?) better than what came off my '79. I tried simply popping the new rebuilt piston into the spare M/C, but at this point I'm still having leakage at the M/C past the piston seals. I ordered up another rebuild kit, this time a K&L, I will try to give the spare M/C a light going over of the bore with some 800/1000 grit sand paper and hope for the best. Boy is it frustrating to have to redo the same job 3, 4, 5? times!

    Even with my leaking M/C issues aside, I swear I've never struggled so much to get a brake to bleed as this rear setup on the XS1100. Not sure if there's something about the m/c reservoir sitting lower than the caliper or what might cause so much grief!
    Yamahas: 1979 XS1100F
    Past Yamahas: 1978 XS1100E, 1976 XS500C

    Comment

    • cajun31
      Moderator
      • Oct 2003
      • 1796
      • Brandon, MS

      #17
      Originally posted by gtem
      Well, an update to my rear brake situation:

      The original master cylinder seemed to be working fine for me, but a pitted rear caliper piston came back to haunt me a few weeks ago, the caliper was gunky and dragging. I ended up installing a new stainless steel piston and new seal, that all seems fine now. *HOWEVER* when I went to bleed the brake there must have been a full moon, because boy did that re-open a can of worms. I could not get the thing to move fluid for the life of me. I finally figured out a way to get it to bleed (some air trapped in the master cylinder perhaps), and then discovered my repaired master cylinder was leaking again. I had bought a spare off of Ranger_xs1100, it obviously also needed a full going through, the bore is only slightly(?) better than what came off my '79. I tried simply popping the new rebuilt piston into the spare M/C, but at this point I'm still having leakage at the M/C past the piston seals. I ordered up another rebuild kit, this time a K&L, I will try to give the spare M/C a light going over of the bore with some 800/1000 grit sand paper and hope for the best. Boy is it frustrating to have to redo the same job 3, 4, 5? times!

      Even with my leaking M/C issues aside, I swear I've never struggled so much to get a brake to bleed as this rear setup on the XS1100. Not sure if there's something about the m/c reservoir sitting lower than the caliper or what might cause so much grief!
      Sorry to hear about the problems you are having. If you don't own one you might consider investing in a mity vac. I fought those bleeding issues, as have others, and with the mity vac it becomes a breeze.
      2 - 80 LGs bought one new
      81 LH
      02 FXSTB Nighttrain
      22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
      Jim

      Comment

      • bikerphil
        Master of XSology
        • Jan 2008
        • 8636
        • South Flori-DUH

        #18
        Yep, first bench bleed, then wrap Teflon tape around the bleeder screw before using the mity vac setup.
        Something that wasn't mentioned was: Back off the pedal adjustment a bit and don't push the piston all the way in when operating the pedal. The piston going in too far may force a leak. Half way piston travel at the max for bleeding.
        2H7 (79) owned since '89
        3H3 owned since '06

        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

        ☮

        Comment

        • XSSIVEUS
          XSive
          • Jul 2018
          • 80
          • Fairfield, CA USA

          #19
          A few things which you may already know but I offer as help:
          1. The following should be really obvious, but I saw someone do this during a rebuild who I thought would know better. When you polish, all your actions should be circular around the bore, not up and down, and as evenly as possible around the bore. The casting should be absolutely clean with no lower grit bits. That will score your polishing.
          2. I avoid mechanical polishing at low grit values with a power tool as that can get too aggressive and oval out a bore. Then you're screwed. I always do all clean up and all polishing by hand.
          3. I'd polish past 1000 grit. I always take it to at least 2000, working progressively, finer and finer.
          4. Lube the new O-ring on the new piston with brake fluid, never install dry. Most rebuild kits will tell you this anyway.

          Good luck solving your issue.
          78 XS1100E touring
          78 XS1100E stock
          80 XS1100LG Midnight Special
          83 XV920MK Midnight Special
          83 XJ750MK Midnight Special
          83 XZ550RK Vision (full fairing, blk/gold)
          83 RX50 Special
          97 FLHR

          Comment

          • DEEBS11
            XS-XJ Guru
            • Feb 2023
            • 1409
            • Connecticut

            #20
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            Comment

            • gtem
              Truly XSive
              • May 2023
              • 161
              • Indianapolis

              #21
              wow those ball hone tools look perfect!
              Yamahas: 1979 XS1100F
              Past Yamahas: 1978 XS1100E, 1976 XS500C

              Comment

              • DEEBS11
                XS-XJ Guru
                • Feb 2023
                • 1409
                • Connecticut

                #22
                BTW the bore is 1/2 inch or 12.7 millimeters. A 320 aluminum oxide hone at about 13 mm diameter would work. Do NOT use silicon carbide as it is too aggressive (it's for steel) and will will ruin the bore.

                Click image for larger version

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                Last edited by DEEBS11; 05-05-2025, 11:12 AM.

                Comment

                • DEEBS11
                  XS-XJ Guru
                  • Feb 2023
                  • 1409
                  • Connecticut

                  #23
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