There should be a bolt that runs through a slider that attaches to the bracket that is held by the axle bolt and a screw on the inside that goes through and holds that pad.
Go to cbugs signature and download the manual and look at chapter 5 section 6
in brakes and you'll see what we are talking about.
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Well, the Axle is already out and double checking the manual, it is one solid piece that the axle threads through. The front calipers come off with two bolts on the forks, but not the back. If you have a rear caliper that doesn't require axle removal, I am quite interested in knowing the mod.Leave a comment:
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you just have to take the caliper off not the whole mount. There should be 2 bolts on the caliper somewhere IIRC that you undo to take JUST the caliper off.... not the bracket also... you know?
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Why? Because that's what Clymers told me to do.
Also, if I didn't remove the rear axle, there would be no way to raise the caliper off of the disc as the axle passes through both of them...unless I missed something...it was getting dark....Leave a comment:
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1. Leave the hose on until you've used the master cylinder to "pump" the piston out of the caliper, then you can remove the hose.
2. Why did you have to remove the rear axle? That caliper should come off without removing the wheel.Leave a comment:
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JAT Dale.......
Make certain that the brake hose doesn't have any obstruction either. Brake hoses will deteriorate inside and loose pieces of the inner rubber liner can act as a one way valve.
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It is begun
So, when I couldn't move my rear wheel for over an hour after coming home tonight I decided to start disassembly today. Good thing too.
I don't have that nifty wire tool to help lift the swing arm up, so when I discovered my cotter pin inserted straight down, I had a fun time digging between muffler and axle nut to pinch it somewhat together. Then the pin broke in my attempts to yank it out...so I need to know where to get a new one. Any ideas? can I just shove any old pin in there, so long as it holds?
Then I discovered my axle pinch bolt hadn't been tightened since the tire change
. who knows what fun that might have been giving me while riding. I finally resorted to a tire iron between the frame where the footpegs bolt on and the swing arm to lift it up to get the axle out.
By this time I was probably in an hour or so (thank you pin and missing wire). Then it was getting dark so I just flipped the caliper up and piled all the parts on the bike and covered it for the night. Time to resume fun tomorrow.
cBug...did you use the brass brush on the piston itself? Wouldn't that scratch it? I got a set with steel, brass, and nylon. I'm thinkin' I'll use the nylon on the piston. At what point in your process did you take the caliper off the hose?Leave a comment:
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Should anybody be wondering...there is an O'Reillys auto parts just a few blocks from here, and a bike shop that sells our oil filters is nearby, but if you have your own, bring it if you plan on doing an oil change. For those of you that have never been here before,and may be wondering, I have a lot of tools here for the bikes, and a few odds and ends. There has been a LOT of serious engine and trans work done here at previous MoMs, and on our own stuff, so you needn't be worrying about tools, or equpiment. I have a compressor, air tools, Mity Vac, a CarbTune, and a ColorTune. I even have a bike hoist, should the need arise. Hell, I have enough stuff to do a resto job if I want. Just bring your own parts for the work you want to do. If you have any questions about what I have and what you need for special tools, PM either Kat or me, and we'll get back to you.Leave a comment:
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Get a few of those wire toothbrushes. They come in different kinds of wire too. The brass ones are nice for this kind of application (but are not required), where you don't want to mar the surface of the cylinder. I use the tiny screwdriver as a pick to dig the crud out from the seal groove that doesn't want to come out with the toothbrush.
The piston in the MC (front and rear) is held in with a snap-ring. I have heard of people working on stuff like this for years, and never owning a pair of snap-ring pliers, but I can't imagine how they manage it. Mine are reversible, so they work for internal AND external snap-rings. This comes in handy when doing the 2nd gear fix too.
Good luck, and I sure hope you don't have to trailer it down! I'm looking forward to having a riding companion for that leg of the trip.Leave a comment:
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The caliper body you will probably need a small toothbrush type wire brush to get all the crap out of the grooves. I had to use a seal pick to clean some of the stuff out of those Virago calipers.
Be careful with the piston though, it has a coating on it that helps keep it from corroding and to make it slide easily. I use the shavings from the brake lathe at work to clean mine but that is probably not available to you.
It sounds silly but sand or just plain dirt rubbed with your hand will work to clean the piston.
It doesn't need to LOOK perfect but make sure it's smooth and all buildup is gone. Sandpaper or emery cloth will scratch the coating and promote rust and corrosion. Don't use it!
Re assemble with some brake fluid on the seals and piston. If it's done correctly you should be able to push the piston back in easily by hand.
The master cylinder will be pretty much the same except you will have to deal with some springs and snap rings (lock rings) during disassenbly and reassembly.
Just pay attention to the order of the parts when you take it apart and make sure ALL passages are clean
I should be through there around 7 or 8.Leave a comment:
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So, taking 20 minutes to write a post while looking at your new mity-vac makes one say silly things.
Looks like I just need to pick up a wire 'tooth' brush, extra fluid and cleaner spray. What did you use the lock ring pliers for? Anything that couldn't be done with normal pliers?Leave a comment:
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Hmm..not afraid to get dirty hands or leave fingerprints...that's not it.Damned law students anyway, afraid to get thier hands dirty and leave finger prints somewhere they shouldn't.
DALE.....review the case...I'll be through there sometime thursday evening.
Get stuff cleaned and reassembled and I can help you bleed it or load you up and take you with if you can't get it working.
Provided you don't mind hanging out with a couple old drunks overnight.
Maybe just a little worried about starting with a brake system I know will stop me, just not sure if it will let me go again, as opposed to taking it apart and not being able to put it back together again.
Anyhow, went to Autozone tonight to get some fuses (Need to look into my headlight wiring, I've blown 3 or 4 fuses) and saw the mity vac. It was only $30, not the $100 I swear I saw online...so I caved... In fact, the very minute you posted Greg, was when I walked into AutoZone...so now I have my own.
That being said, it still seems like I have plenty do besides the bleeding. I'll start tearing down Thursday after my last class (4 pm) and I if you wouldn't mind giving a jingle to see how I am as you get close that'd be grand.
Don't worry John, we'll still have plenty of fun to do on my front brakes (which haven't locked up ever yet...)
cBug...taking a little longer? Still waiting to hear back from your adventure.
If I'm reading the manuals right, there is no need to bench bleed the rear MC, correct?
Also, when I'm cleaning the parts in brake fluid, I just use my fingers to rub them gently while in the fluid?
K, I think I'm good to go after that.
ThanksLeave a comment:
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I spent 2 hours in the carport today, but that included removing both wheels so they could be taken to have tires installed. For the brakes, I used the following tools:
ratchet wrench, 12mm socket, 14mm socket, 8mm box end wrench, tiny flat screwdriver (to pick the seal out of the groove in the piston bore), wire toothbrush, brake parts cleaner spray (with straw), pliers, snap-ring pliers, drinking straw, scissors, and brake fluid.
The hardest part is keeping the MC filled while bleeding, and that is where I use the drinking straw. I cut open one end to make it look like a Slurpee straw, and put the other end in the fill hole on the MC. It's a tiny funnel, and I make sure to re-fill the MC after every 2-3 pumps of the pedal.
Took about a total of 10 minutes for bleeding.Leave a comment:
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