Fork seals

[Wayne]

OK, I changed my fork seals last year. BUT, I had a hell-o-va time getting them in and I know i messed them up during instal because THEY ARE BOTH LEAKING AGAIN!!!
So I need some advice on the best way to go about replacing the fork seals without poking holes in them. (which is what i ended up doing to mine. Any tips would be appreciated.

[Mike Hart]

I hope it is the seals you damaged, and not what they seal to!

I don't remember if we used an old seal, or what, to mate up to the seal nicely and to be sure not to scratch the fork. As I recall, getting them OUT was harder than getting them in!

Also - did you use OEM seals, or 'Leak-Proof' seals? OEM are a few bucks more, but I never hear complaints. While some folks seem to do okay with LeakProof seals, several others have reported less than satisfactory results. FFT

[sixtysix]

How exactly did you poke holes in them? I have never tried that method of installation! I am guessing that reinstalling the seal is your problem.

Here is an excerpt from a motorcyle online article I copied sometime back:

Assuming everything is in order, it's time to re-assemble the fork. There should be an exploded view of all the parts of the fork in the factory service manual that you have open in front of you. Installation is the reverse of the disassembly, with the exception of banging the seals back in. With the damper rod installed and tightened, slide the upper guide bushing over the fork leg and into the recess where it sits in the outer leg. Ideally a seal driver should be used for this part, another expensive factory tool, but you may have something laying around in your garage that will work just the same: If you've ever changed a set of steering head bearings, and thought that the old damaged races that came out were just useless junk, well think again. With a little luck, they just may be the perfect size to use for a make-shift seal driver. Just make sure that the bearing race doesn't get jammed in the same housing the bushing is going into. If it looks like it's going to work, use a heavy hammer and a flat-blade screwdriver on the bearing race to gently drive the bushing in. Make sure to start the bushing carefully, tapping around the circumference of the driver, so that it goes in square. Grease the lips of the new seal before sliding it over the fork leg, and drive it in the same way. Install the clip, making sure that it seats in the groove all the way around the leg, followed by the dust seal.

One thing that does not say is to check the surface of you upper fork tubes for burrs, dings, dents, rust or blisters in the chrome that may damage the seal on reinstallation. I got screwed by this on my venture which had hundreds of tiny pock marks in the chrome, each was a jagged shard waiting to cut my seals, which they did, when I collapsed the forks to add fresh oil and change springs, so now I had to do seals too!! This was in the area the seal does not normally travel. I had to take a burnishing wheel on my dremel and hit each pock mark to remove the sharp edges, (took hours) but worked great the next time!

If you would like me to send the entire document I have it in Word format (.doc) just PM your e-mail

[oldfart]

forkin seals

I use a piece of ABS pipe(you can get a piece close to the outside diameter of the seal)cut square on both ends,and about eight to twelve inches long.does not easily damage seals.start the seals square to the lower(warming the lower" slightly" helps too)using the pipe,gentlly tap the seal into the lower till it bottoms out,the whole secret is to keep it square in lower......it's easy to tell you how when you have done many,but seems like it's impossible when you try to follow someone elses instructions,hope it helps.
BTW....like mike said hope the tubes are not damaged....dents or pitting,it will soon leek again even with new seals.....Will

[Wayne]

Well all, I was going to try and make the TeXSive Rally without doing the fork seals BUT. I found a bit of fork oil on the floor the other day! Now I thinking id better go ahead and try to get it done before the rally. (As JP said: "It aint worth dyin' over) So Thanks to all who chimmed in on my little dillema. Im starting tonight.

[Dragonrider]

from Wayne

Well all, I was going to try and make the TeXSive Rally without doing the fork seals BUT

Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry Hurry

Only
NINE
Days left!!!!

till

TeXSive

[Wayne]

IM TRYING DANNY!!!

Well i found one of my problems last night. After getting the old seals out i saw that the inside top of one of the lowers was pretty banged up. This is the one I got outa the bone yard last year. And the other had a small but deep nick in it as well.

So, I wet sanded all the nicks down till they were pretty smooth and put the new seals in. I am also missing one of the washers that fit on top of the seal, so Ill be trying to find a replacement this afternoon. Then, hopefully, Ill be able to put her back together and RIDE (wait, no, im still waiting on my new Russell seat which should arive today[i hope])!

So Danny, NINE DAYS, "Tis mora dan enouf time mon"

[Wayne]

Oh and to answer Mike's question... I used OEM seals ordered from the dealer.

[xsivebiker]

Wayne,
Like Old Fart suggested, use something close to the seal dia. size. This spring I replaced the fork seals on my XL-250 with OEM seals. Very hard to remove old seals. I used a piece of "round stock" [metal] to drive my new seals in. I suppose wood would have worked also.
Mine didn't leak for just over three months. Then, my teenage son asked to take her out trail riding. He brought it back hours later with one fork leaking, scratched speedo face, hd. light high/low beam "button" broke off, etc. Even though I had put aprox. 300 mi. on it , "I" didn't have any leaks. I do like to ride an occasional wheelie on her, but, the high "motocross" style jumps
I avoided. Oh well, another project for this fall/winter. At least this time I have only one seal to replace [again].
This time I will also look for burrs.
Greg
1980 XS1100-G
1979 XL250-S

[Wayne]

Well Greg, I used the old seals to match to the new ones and then placed a small 1x4 board on top of that and hammered it in. It worked great. It took a little finesse but it worked.

[rlindsay]

Okay, dumb question: When you say you hammer them (seals) in, do you mean you leave them in the forks after installing the new ones?

Don't holler at me, I'm not a mechanic..........

[sixtysix]

Originally posted by rlindsay
Okay, dumb question: When you say you hammer them (seals) in, do you mean you leave them in the forks after installing the new ones?

Don't holler at me, I'm not a mechanic..........

ARRRGH!! No......what he meant was he used the old, already removed seal (which is of course the perfect size) to drive in the new seal.

[kenkrieger]

Good to find this thread, I just ordered the Leak Proof variety from Dennis Kirk,,,they were half the price the Yamerhammerya dealer wanted for the OEM and then to wait a week,,Dealers,,go figure. And I usually prescribe to the motto pay peanuts and you get Elephant sh#$. But they say leakproof, lol. Anyway we shall see how they do and thanks for all the good anectodal evidence presented here, it all will help, no doubt, doing them this weekend, carbs and bearings,,have no aerosol glue around either.
Ride on folks

[sixtysix]

Ken,

My leakproofs lasted 5 years and about 30K in my standard, one is pushing up a little black crud (fist sign of a leak) but no actual oil, I am going to change them this winter and bought a set of OEM's to see if there is any difference. Ask me in 5 years !

[TopCatGr58]

I replaced mine now going on 2 years when I rebuilt my front end with my new 4"over stock uppers, and one thing I thought about was the possible damage from bug guts and stuff, along with rocks and things that could chip/pit the surface of the uppers, which could then inturn chew/cut away at the rubber seal that slides over them.

SO...after a ride or before the next one, I clean the tubes, removing debris, get them smooth, then I apply some oil to the uppers to allow them to slide more easily into the seals.

What do you think about this for maintainance/and/or preventive practice??