It begins... And I need another part.

[eroellig]

Hi all,

Haven't been hanging out here lately, work & stuff you know.

Anyway, I've finally rolled up my sleeves & tore into my '80 SG I picked up late last year. As a reminder, it sat for 3 years. Starts but isn't happy, #2 compression is < 90psi, #3 is < 110 psi& #1 & #4 are 135psi. As per the advise I got here earlier, I've been shooting PB Blaster at the rings during the winter down time to see if it will help things out once I git 'er on the road.

I got the faring off the front and pulled the carbs. Only had a couple stripped screw heads to deal with. I have a NOS throttle cable as the old was was sticking. As I was replacing it, I took a look at the ignition cutoff switch that I couldn't turn. It is corroded & broken. So...

I'm looking for the right hand controls (starter switch, ignition cutoff & throttle).

Also, in the last couple to three months, has anyone gotten a line on the enricher lever on the carbs? Since I'm tearing mine down for cleaning, this would be a good time for me to put a new one on. The only one I've seen is like $45...

I had a surprise when I pulled the air cleaner out. The filter was home to 5 mumified baby mice

I'm looking forward to riding weather

Eric

[Ken Talbot]

Re: It begins... And I need another part.

Originally posted by eroellig


I'm looking for the right hand controls (starter switch, ignition cutoff & throttle).

Eric

There's a set on Ebay right now.....

[eroellig]

Son of a @%%$@

While I was removing #2 main jet, the $#@#$ thing broke off. I was hardly applying any force to it. I wonder if that had something to do with the problems #2 has been having????

So, any idea's how to remove the remains?

Got a good source for a 110 jet?

[John]

Now that the head of the main is gone, can you drive the nozzle out of its bore? To remove it, you must remove the top cap and take out the diaphram assembly. The nozzle presses out through the top of the carb. I have some 81 carbs for parts and I can probably fix you up with a nozzle, but I'll have to look and see if I have a 110 main jet. If and when you get it apart let me know how many holes are in the nozzle, so I can be sure I have the correct ones.

[John]

I just checked my stash

I do have some 110 mains, and the nozzles have two holes on two sides and one hole on the other sides. Are yours the same?

[skids]

Be kinda careful about the tiny dowel pin in there.

Originally posted by John
Now that the head of the main is gone, can you drive the nozzle out of its bore?

[eroellig]

Re: I just checked my stash

Originally posted by John
I do have some 110 mains, and the nozzles have two holes on two sides and one hole on the other sides. Are yours the same?

Yes, that is exactly what I have.

John, your a life saver!!

I think there must have been a flaw with this one. All the other 3 took some force to break them free, but then they unscrewed as expected. This one never made me work.

BOY is there a lot of crap inside these carbs. It's no wonder it fussed about getting lit up.

BTW: What is the best way to clean the octopuss? I think I'm going to get some new fuel lines so those won't be a problem.

Also, I saw a vacuum line going from #2 boot to #2 carb and I unhooked that. But there is a vacuum line going to the vacuum advance for the timing but I didn't see where it came from. The end of that hose is torn so it didn't come off nicely I don't know if I did that or if the PO did. Can someone give me a clue where it is supposed to hook onto?

Thanks

Eric

[eroellig]

Originally posted by skids
Be kinda careful about the tiny dowel pin in there.

Tiny dowel noted. Thanks.

Eric

[John]

The vacuum line that connects to the nipple on #2 carb body goes to the vacuum advance under the left side engine cover. The one that has Yamaha cast into it. The line from the #1 carb boot, where it attaches to the head goes to the octopus. Ther should be a cap on the nipp;e on the #2 boot. I have eliminated the octopus and run the fuel lines directly to the carbs. The way I have it plumbed, I can run on just one petcock with out ant fuel starvation problems. I have to turn the petcock on and off manually, but that is no problem. If you'd like the carb parts, send me a PM, and we'll discuss a price.

[John]

Check my last response on this thread.

It explains how I have the fuel lines plumbed.

[John]

Oops

I forgot to add the link.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...g&pagenumber=2

[andreashweiss]

I have one of those plastic throttle cable holders(grip goes on it. And in case you need some more 80/81 carb parts I still have a zip lock baggie with some misc pieces inside for that mikuni series. andreas.

[eroellig]

More parts needed &amp; more questions.

Originally posted by andreashweiss
I have one of those plastic throttle cable holders(grip goes on it. And in case you need some more 80/81 carb parts I still have a zip lock baggie with some misc pieces inside for that mikuni series. andreas.

Andreas,

I think I have need of some of those parts. #2 carb, the one that had corroded its main jet, also corroded the float & pin. I think that is why it would sometimes flood gas on the ground. I had noticed after I took the float bowl off that the float would stick sometimes. It has the plastic floats.

So, do you have a spare float & pin?

Also, the spring on the idle mixture screw on #1 is corroded with some kind of white powery gunk. I guess it'll clean up OK?

Question for all:

I noticed that the bowl needle has a rubber point on it. What is the best way to clean it? I assume that it should NOT get dunked into the cleaning dip...

Also, how do you remove the seat for the float valve? The instructions in the FAQ talk about using spanners on it. This one is perfectly round with nothing to grip onto. It has a small clip that is screwed into the carb body itself that holds the seat in place. What do you guys used to grip it to pull it out of place? Some kind of rubber jawed something-or-other?

I think I have all the small parts removed so I should have found all the carb surprises... It's time to start soaking as soon as I get those bowl seats removed.

Thanks all.

Eric

[John]

The best way that I have found to remove the seats from the late model carbs, is to find a drill bit that the shank of which will just fit into the bore of the seat. Then you can grip the seat with a pair of pliers and slowly rotate the seat back and forth, while pulling upwards on it. The drill bit will prevent the seat from getting distorted. Use some kind of penetrating spray before you start. That may help break it loose , and give the O ring that seals the seat the carb body some lube, also.
Sorry that I don't have any plastic floats available, I used them in my carbs when I had a brass float develop a leak.

[eroellig]

Originally posted by John
The best way that I have found to remove the seats from the late model carbs, is to find a drill bit that the shank of which will just fit into the bore of the seat. Then you can grip the seat with a pair of pliers and slowly rotate the seat back and forth, while pulling upwards on it. The drill bit will prevent the seat from getting distorted....

John,

Thanks. I'll give that a try.

Eric