It begins... And I need another part.

[skids]

Re: Valve Question

I wouldn't worry about that unless I had to impact it to move it. The engine provides a lot of vibration and forces that will make it rotate even if is relatively snug. On the other hand (OTOH), if it doesn't readily rise to its natural resting position as you crank the cams around, you got some significant problems! A bent valve causes a BIG shim clearance measurement.

[eroellig]

The up&down movement seems to be OK. It consistantly reads the same valve clearance after turning the engine over. Also, the valve clearance on #4 exhaust is consistant with all the other exhaust clearances...

[eroellig]

Clear Film in cam area

One other thing, I keep finding small bits of a clear film in the cam area. It is definitely NOT gasket material. I can't think of anything I could have done to introduce it, but it almost looks like bits of plastic, but it isn't as strong as a plastic. It tears easily. I keep fishing bits out with tweezers as I see them. Probably 7-8 bits so far.

Does any kind of film or varnish form there or is it likely external contamination?

Eric

[randy]

Eric,

Possibly the previous owner (PO) clear coated the valve cover and got some on the inside (doh!), and it's flaking off?

[eroellig]

Randy, beats the heck out of me... I haven't looked at the inside of the valve cover itself yet. I'll take a look tonight. But the consistancy of this "film" would be about right for a clear coat. It bugs the crap outa me to see it in there.

I would assume that with this kind of contamination, picking it out with tweezers would be the best way. Any kind of wash or compressed air might blow it into "bad" places???

Eric

[randy]

I wouldn't worry about it. Just pick out whatever pieces you can see. It's not abrasive and the valve train & oil pump will chew it up real good.

[eroellig]

PO wasn't very observant.

Well, Now that I have a list of shims to get and I know I need bearings for the steering head, I decided to strip down the rest of the bike and look for more parts to cut down on shipping.

I figured out before I got the bike home that the rear brake was sticking. Today, I took the rear caliper off and found out that it was only a few miles away from wearing out the rear brake pad.... I also have a tear in a front brake piston rubber seal.

More stuff to get...

Eric

[eroellig]

Valve Shims

I've had over a month of interruptions

I'm ready to order new shims and I wanted some confirmation on the sizes I'm thinking of changing to. This is for an '80 SG w 27,xxx miles on the clock. The clearance ranges I understand apply to this bike are:

Intake: .11mm - .15mm
Exhaust: .21mm - .25mm


Valve Measured OldShim NewShim
I#1 .06 Y275 Y270
I#2 .12 Y270 N/C
I#3 .10 Y270 Y265
I#4 .10 Y275 Y270

E#1 .15 Y295 Y285
E#2 .17 Y295 Y290
E#3 .15 Y295 Y285
E#4 .15 Y295 Y285

The valves I'm interested in feedback on are I#1, I#2 and E#2. As shown, that would put the resulting lash for these valves at .11, .12 and .22 respectively. Since these are close to the lower end of the lash range, should I move one size shim for .16, .17 and .27 respectively, or would that be too far out of spec on the loose side?

What you you guys do?

Eric

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Eric,

As long as you can attain the lash within the specified values, then being near the lower values is still okay, that's why they provide a "range" of sizes which allows for the natural reduction in lash once the engine warms up. SO...don't go too large, just stay within the spec range!

And it looks like you may be able to swap a few within your engine, so you won't have to buy as many shims.
T.C.

[eroellig]

Thanks, TC.

I wasn't sure if I could "cheat" and not worry about checking valve clearances for a little longer.

I'll go with my initial assessment.

Thanks

Eric

[eroellig]

Swing arm bearings

Guys,

Can the swing arm bearings be removed for repacking without destroying them?

Eric

[randy]

Swing arm bearings

Yes.

[eroellig]

Rear brake pads

Well, I've misplaced not one (Clymers) but two (Haynes) shop manuals. I had them out reading....

Anyway, I'm trying to figure out how to replace the rear brake pads in my '80 special. I can't see how to take the pads out without bending the clip that holds them in place.

Can anyone give a clue while I look for my AWOL manuals?

Thanks

Eric

[John]

There is a screw on the back side of the caliper that holds the brake pad to the caliper. Go in above the final drive, and look at the back of the caliper. See the screw? Remove it. Go around to the right side. Remove the bolt that secures the caliper to the bracket. Now lift the caliper straight up. It may take a little effort if the caliper isn't retracting properly. The pads will stay in the caliper bracket. They will slide out the front and back of the bracket. Piece of cake.

[eroellig]

Originally posted by John
... Piece of cake.

D'oh!

Thanks John. I must be more stressed out at work than I think to not have seen that.

Eric