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  • #16
    yeah, probably, but then you can't sell the cooler w/o the adapter plate and bolt!!

    A new oil filter bolt is cheap, JCW and elsewhere. If you are taking off the cooler, do the whole thing man, pass it along! The line you speak of will cost more than the bolt.

    What kind of pipes do you have that you cant' get to the filter/adapter?

    Maybe whoever you sell it to will send you their oil filter bolt...
    Mike * Seattle * 82 F'n'XJ1100 *

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    • #17
      The existing oil filter bolt is "the" oil filter bolt. Once the oil filter housing is dropped, there is another, hollow, bolt that holds the adapter plate in place. Once this second bolt is removed, the adapter plate comes right off. Look under the engine at the base of the filter housing. You should clearly see a part that sticks down aprox. 3/4" to 1" from the bottom of the engine, the same diameter as the filter housing. This is the adaptor plate. Then reinstall the filter, or replace it with a new one, and filter housing.

      Then donate/sell the oil cooler with the adapter plate and hollow bolt. It's totally useless to anyone unless the adaptor plate and bolt go with the cooler rad.
      Brian
      1978E Midlife Crisis - A work in progress
      1984 Kawasaki 550 Ltd - Gone, but not forgotten

      A married man should forget his mistakes. There's no use in two people
      remembering the same thing!

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      • #18
        Originally posted by BLACKSUNSHINE
        I haven't dropped the pipes so i can't really see what is holding the adapter/oil filter housing in place...My question is there a differrnce in the bolt size after the adapter is removed shorter perhaps???Could i run a braided line from one fitting to the next without disturbing the adapter setup.Basically tricking the setup out to make it work without mesing with the adapter???
        Ouch, you've got a set of pipes that are in the way of doing your basic oil filter change??? The center nut/bolt of the filter housing which is in the center of the round housing is what holds it in place, and there apparently is another bolt hidding under/inside the filter housing, that is bolted thru the adapter plate to the engine, the filter housing covers it.

        As for running a line, yes you could do it, it would be like bypassing the oil cooler, just out one fitting and back in to the other. But, with your pipes so close, and the possibility of the hose failing/getting damaged from road debris, burn thru from pipes, etc., why not take a few extra minutes, unbolt your header pipes, lower them so you can remove the filter housing, then the adapter plate, and then replace the housing with a new filter and gasket and be done with it!! Lot less trouble than futzing around with a hose, trying to get it not to leak, etc.!

        Don't forget to drain the oil first, and keep a catch bucket under the filter, it will be full of oil anyways. Good Luck.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

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        • #19
          Thanx you guys have been a great help.Looks like I'll be removing the adapter plate very soon.To anwser a question I have a four in one header with a bub pipe.Love the sound of the bub but the header pipes are flattened on #2 and #3 pipe so that will be the next thing to go.It also seems to be much easier to find a four in one header to fit that bike if the oil cooler is not there!!!SAWEET this kills to birds with one stone!!Thanx once again........

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          • #20
            Thanx Once Again

            Well project complete....Easy fix fresh oil and away i went...Ran it up to 170 just to make sure the fix was good... And thanking you the useful info.....

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            • #21
              Scott, I moved your thank you post here where the people who helped you are sure to see it!
              Mike * Seattle * 82 F'n'XJ1100 *

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