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  • Carb removal

    Has anyone tried removing their carbs via the method listed in the tech tips---that is loosening the screws on the v-shaped unit in order to remove the air box first?

    http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance...shtml#removing

    How did that work out? Thanks.
    80 XS11 SG
    79 XS750 SF
    74 KZ400
    78 KZ650
    78 KZ750

  • #2
    That is how I always remove my carbs. Just turn the screws about two turns each. You can then just slip the bracket off the frame, although you may have to pry a little with a heavy screw drive or pry bar.
    I can pull the carbs quickly, but then I've had a "little" practice.
    Ray
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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    • #3
      Thanks DiverRay,

      Are those the 'only' screws you have to touch on the air box?
      80 XS11 SG
      79 XS750 SF
      74 KZ400
      78 KZ650
      78 KZ750

      Comment


      • #4
        Ditto what Ray says. I used to fight the carb removal chore until I read that tip. Now, I can get them off in 10 minutes.

        Those 4 phillips screws, two turns only, plus the 3, 10mm (wrench size) bolts that attach the upper airbox to the frame. Then pry the bracket below the frame, and push airbox down and back out of the way.

        Loosen the clamps on the carbs, disconnect throttle cable, vacuum and fuel lines, and the carbs come right off.
        Rick
        '80 SG
        '88 FXR
        '66 Spitfire MK II

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        • #5
          Hey fxrer, thanks. I'm looking forward to trying that.
          80 XS11 SG
          79 XS750 SF
          74 KZ400
          78 KZ650
          78 KZ750

          Comment


          • #6
            I'm having a little difficulty getting the bracket to slip off. Maybe I didn't loosen the screws enough. Do you do 2 full turns or just 2 turns of the wrist? I guess I'm a little paranoid about the nuts falling off in the box.
            80 XS11 SG
            79 XS750 SF
            74 KZ400
            78 KZ650
            78 KZ750

            Comment


            • #7
              Oh, and I forgot to add another previous tip. When re-installing, remember to spray WD-40 (or equiv) liberally on the carb throats. Then, they will slip easily back into the intake and airbox rubbers.
              Rick
              '80 SG
              '88 FXR
              '66 Spitfire MK II

              Comment


              • #8
                I do two full turns - just so the nuts on the inside don't fall off. Then you will have a nightmare.

                It helps to loosen all the clamps first, so you can gain "wiggle" room. Might help to push everything forward, as you pry the bracket forward, then down.
                Rick
                '80 SG
                '88 FXR
                '66 Spitfire MK II

                Comment


                • #9
                  I don't mess with loosening the screws that attach the bracket to the airbox (AB). I use a pair of channel locks and just bend it away from the top mounting tab on the frame. I then remove the lower half of the AB out the right side. Then I loosen the clamps that hold the AB to the carbs and pull the AB backward to pull the boots off the carbs, and then I push the AB down in the front to slip the boots under the carbs. I leave the throttle cable on until I have the carbs pulled from the intake boots, and then you can rotate them to the rear, and slide them to the left and access the cable very easily. Once it is removed, then you can easily slide the carbs out through the left side. I leave the big crankcase vent hose on the airbox, and disconnect it from the case. Much easier to reconnect that way. Installation is pretty much the reverse as removal. Before you have the carbs fully inserted into their place, stop and attach the cable the same way as you removed it, then continue reinserting them. Lubing the intake boots is a good idea, as the carbs are hell to get into some of the older, harder boots that don't have much flex left in them. Once the AB is in place, tighten the side mounting bolts, then use the channel locks to bend the mounting bracket back into place, and bolt it down. A few good cuss words will be required for this job, as well as find the proper placement for your tongue. Cold beer helps, also.
                  Last edited by John; 12-15-2005, 05:08 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks John. I try the beer for sure.
                    80 XS11 SG
                    79 XS750 SF
                    74 KZ400
                    78 KZ650
                    78 KZ750

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      .. i have removed the top mount from my air box, makes things much easer to move around

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                      • #12
                        Gnepig, That sounds like an excellent idea. Have you noticed any problems with the air box as a result of the removal?
                        80 XS11 SG
                        79 XS750 SF
                        74 KZ400
                        78 KZ650
                        78 KZ750

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Have you noticed any problems with the air box as a result of the removal?
                          .. no sir, i removed it 3 years ago no problems as of yet..

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                          • #14
                            Boots were made for walkin'

                            as the carbs are hell to get into some of the older, harder boots that don't have much flex left in them
                            Not so much with manifold boots, but have encountered many age-hardened airbox boots. To soften, heat them with your wife's blow dryer. (If you have your own blow dryer.... well... I'd rather not hear about it)
                            "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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                            • #15
                              What if

                              I still have my hair dryer from the 80's? Remember the Gillette "Max for Men"?

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