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Has anyone tried removing their carbs via the method listed in the tech tips---that is loosening the screws on the v-shaped unit in order to remove the air box first?
That is how I always remove my carbs. Just turn the screws about two turns each. You can then just slip the bracket off the frame, although you may have to pry a little with a heavy screw drive or pry bar.
I can pull the carbs quickly, but then I've had a "little" practice.
Ray
Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
Ditto what Ray says. I used to fight the carb removal chore until I read that tip. Now, I can get them off in 10 minutes.
Those 4 phillips screws, two turns only, plus the 3, 10mm (wrench size) bolts that attach the upper airbox to the frame. Then pry the bracket below the frame, and push airbox down and back out of the way.
Loosen the clamps on the carbs, disconnect throttle cable, vacuum and fuel lines, and the carbs come right off.
I'm having a little difficulty getting the bracket to slip off. Maybe I didn't loosen the screws enough. Do you do 2 full turns or just 2 turns of the wrist? I guess I'm a little paranoid about the nuts falling off in the box.
Oh, and I forgot to add another previous tip. When re-installing, remember to spray WD-40 (or equiv) liberally on the carb throats. Then, they will slip easily back into the intake and airbox rubbers.
I do two full turns - just so the nuts on the inside don't fall off. Then you will have a nightmare.
It helps to loosen all the clamps first, so you can gain "wiggle" room. Might help to push everything forward, as you pry the bracket forward, then down.
I don't mess with loosening the screws that attach the bracket to the airbox (AB). I use a pair of channel locks and just bend it away from the top mounting tab on the frame. I then remove the lower half of the AB out the right side. Then I loosen the clamps that hold the AB to the carbs and pull the AB backward to pull the boots off the carbs, and then I push the AB down in the front to slip the boots under the carbs. I leave the throttle cable on until I have the carbs pulled from the intake boots, and then you can rotate them to the rear, and slide them to the left and access the cable very easily. Once it is removed, then you can easily slide the carbs out through the left side. I leave the big crankcase vent hose on the airbox, and disconnect it from the case. Much easier to reconnect that way. Installation is pretty much the reverse as removal. Before you have the carbs fully inserted into their place, stop and attach the cable the same way as you removed it, then continue reinserting them. Lubing the intake boots is a good idea, as the carbs are hell to get into some of the older, harder boots that don't have much flex left in them. Once the AB is in place, tighten the side mounting bolts, then use the channel locks to bend the mounting bracket back into place, and bolt it down. A few good cuss words will be required for this job, as well as find the proper placement for your tongue. Cold beer helps, also.
as the carbs are hell to get into some of the older, harder boots that don't have much flex left in them
Not so much with manifold boots, but have encountered many age-hardened airbox boots. To soften, heat them with your wife's blow dryer. (If you have your own blow dryer.... well... I'd rather not hear about it)
"Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
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