auto cancelling blinkers

[mro]

self cancelling

On my 80G the self cancelling works most of the time on the left signal and sometimes one the right.

Cancels as soon as turn is complete.

Turn em off if they don't self cancel after few seconds so don't know if distanced traveled makes a difference.


mro

[auxtian]

Seems everyone thinks I need to fix them....they work fine with the standard system I just need to get the circuit so I can make it work with LED's and an electronic blinker unit. Seems, as some have found, using LED's the current is not enough to let it work. Just trying to reduce current usage

[LoserShoes]

The reason for the distance/timer thing is that you don't want it to timeout while sitting at a stop light, so the distance is predominate during a slow or stopped event. And when going fast, the distance is covered quickly, so the timer gets priority.

Steve

[skids]

Re: self cancelling

I'll bet the slider in the switch assembly needs cleaning. It is supposed to make momentary contact, I think...

Originally posted by mro
On my 80G the self cancelling works most of the time on the left signal and sometimes one the right.

Cancels as soon as turn is complete.

Turn em off if they don't self cancel after few seconds so don't know if distanced traveled makes a difference.


mro

[mro]

Skids

That’s a thought, "slider in the switch assembly needs cleaning".

Have bike down right now for needed maintenance/wait on parts, and have been cleanning electrical connections and other misc. items.

Did not even think about the handle switch

Will have to check/clean controls too!!!

thanks

mro

[wingnut]

Reed Sensor

I recently bought a 160 Speedo from eBay and installed it on my 81 SH. Since then the automatic canceling system has not worked. During the change over I had to use the wiring harness from the 85 mph Speedo on the 160 mph unit due to a difference in the plugs so the reed sensor from the 85 mph unit is now installed in the 160 Speedo. Could that be the reason for the system not working anymore? Is there a difference between the sensors of the 85mph unit and the 160 mph unit? Or did I just screw it up during the change over? Does anyone know of a way to test the sensor statically? The rubber boots on both units are not in the greatest shape and will not take much more of the removal and installation stress so Id like to be able to measure the sensor from the plugs to see if they are to spec. Any help would be great.

[planedick]

Use meter

Use your ohm meter on the leads and you should see on/off situation as you rotate the front wheel. Magnets on the drive that are used to move the needle to show your speed are also used to actuate the reed switch.

[fredintoon]

Buncha wimps - - -

- - - fit an el-cheapo two prong generic auto flasher and remember to cancel the thing.
Remember the flasher gauntlet? Had an amber lamp on the back of the gauntlet with a wire from the battery & a ground. The flashing was by contacts on the thumb and forefinger that you pressed together and apart to make it flash.
They were briefly marketed back when the Highway Code booklet still had illustrations of the proper signals a horse and carriage driver would make with his whip.

[wingnut]

Hell Fred I could stick my arm out holding a glow stick too but I don't want to. The self cancel feature is one of my favorite things about the 1100. Its one less thing to think about while trying to stear this cow

[wingnut]

Reed Sensor output

Has any one measured the output of the reed sensor? If I use my drill and spin the Speedo to about 20 mph I can read about .4 volts AC. That’s on the 85 mph unit. The 160 unit which is mounted on the bike shows no output at the plug located behind the headlight at the same speed. Normally I would think OK bad connection in the Speedo unit or a bad reed sensor. The other question is that the 78/79 Speedo harness used a 4 pin plug and the 81SH uses a 3 pin connector. Both models wiring diagrams show the black/white stripe wire tying to the instrument ground circuit. I'm assuming the 81 does it in the Speedo harness itself and the 79 does it somewhere else in the harness. Anyone know for sure.

Dave

[wingnut]

Call off the dogs

OK I can say that .4 volts AC @ 20 mph (out put from my cordless drill) is enought to make the auto cancel system work. Found a break in the green and white wire coming from the reed sensor inside the speedo housing. System works great now and I love the 160 mph speedo although it will take some getting use to.

Dave

[Axel]

only slightly off topic

COUld some one tell me where to start troubleshooting to find the cause of my self-cancelling being inoperative .
I will split the clam and clean the switch inards . I also will check the flasher to see if it was replaced with the cheap one . After that - I'm lost

[planedick]

Reed switch

The switch in the speedo is only a switch. Power in on one side either on or off at the other side. Turning the speedo shaft slowly will turn it on and off about 4 times per rev. There are magnets on the end of the shaft in the speedo that is what makes the indicator needle move. Faster reves means higher reading. The switch can be easily checked with a volt/ohm meter (VOM). Put the meter in resistance mode and connect to the two leads on the reed switch and depending on the position of the shaft it will show open or closed and by slowly rotating the speedo shaft will change the state on, off, on, etc.

[wingnut]

So I must have been measuring some type of inducted current when checking it on AC volts. I was thinking it was some type of monopole. The magnets moving the fields thru a coil of wire creating a voltage. Either the unit counts the pulses or mesasures the low voltage output. I'd love to see a secmatic of that thing. The output was dependent on the speed of the magnets just like a generator. When I checked it using ohms I did get some movement on the meter but it was not a on / off continuity, it was a lesser to greater resistance value. Could have been that old meter the battery in it was really low. Axel you might try getting another canceling device from somewhere. I had to change mine out when I first got the bike to make the system work. There has got to be a capacitor in there for the timing circuit which could have dried out or a diode that gave up the ghost. Also figured out the all the connections have to be really clean for it to work right.

Dave

[Ken Talbot]

Originally posted by wingnut
Either the unit counts the pulses or mesasures the low voltage output.

It counts the pusles. Sitting a a stoplight, the signals will flash forever. I'm not sure what it is, but there is a specific distance that the lights will flash for, then they go off. With practice, you turn on the flashers just far enough ahead that they're still on as you make the turn, including if you have to stop for a second or two at the intersection, then they go off just as you complete the turn. More often, I initiate a bit late, so they're still flashing for a short distance after the turn.