JASO oil vs energy conserving

[Bonz]

Tried posting this in the members Lounge but it has a pink background and says unapproved. Not sure what's going on? Going to give it a try here.

I spend a good bit of time over on "Bob is the oil guy" forum. Discussions about JASO MA/MA2 oil rating going on at any given time.

I'm looking for info/experience back in 1997/1998 when energy conserving became a label on bottles in 1997 then JASO was established in 1998.

My question is this: Even though oils above 10w30 grade are not rated energy conserving simply because the higher viscosity discounts them from an engine efficiency standpoint, has anyone experienced issues with clutch slippage during the 1997/1998 time frame or after, running "Automotive" 10w40, 15w40, 20w50 Etc in any bike not just a Yamaha XS1100?

My contention is if it doesn't have "energy conserving" on the bottle, there's no magic pixie dust that is a friction modifier other than traditional additives such as boron, moly and zinc.

Over on BITOG, guys are adamant about friction modifiers that somehow make a difference, yet no one can identify them and the potential to be in oils that are not labeled as energy conserving. However I've never had an issue myself and I'm trying to get some real world experience from others besides myself that I can share back on that forum.

[LAB3]

Can't say this applies directly to the XS but there's plenty of stories on the Suzuki GS forum on clutches slipping while using friction modifiers. Considering those bikes are from the same era I always shied away from using it.

[cajun31]

My 2 cents. I used Supertech 20w50 from Walmart in all my bikes for years and it caused no slippage. I used to use Yama lube 20w40 and when that became unavailable i went to the Supertech. The only reason I don't still use it is because I have read that continued use of oil intended for use in an automobile, even if it does not have any friction modifiers in it, does not have the shear strength that oils specifically manufactured for motorcycles has. Even though that oil is probably better for the clutch, the real problem with most motorcycles is that the same oil is shared by everything whereas in a car only the engine. Most motorcycle oils have additives in them to prevent them from breaking down under those extreme conditions. Now, with that said, on our old bikes or for that matter any of those bikes from that era generally have a stated oil change frequency of 3000 miles so it probably isn't that big of an issue. Other things I have read is that the use of oil intended for cars over prolonged use in a motorcycle can cause more sludge buildup. Can't say I don't somewhat agree with them on the other forum about making sure you are using oil marked with those Japanese oil standards. Yama lube 20w50 no synthetic is still available so would be a good choice for oil.

[bikerphil]

Castrol GTX or Supertech 20W/50 non synthetic, change every 3K religiously, filter every 6K, just like the book says. Motors are gonna last a long time. Like 150-200K+. No friction modifier additives to preserve the clutch. Used Castrol 89-05, then switched to Supertech and still using.

[Radioguylogs]

I've used Castrol 20-50W (automotive) oil in all my motorcycles since 1980. No clutch issues and no sludge issues.

I usually change the oil after about 2,000 miles.

[DEEBS11]

I have used either Mobile 1 or Shell 15W/40 car oil in literally hundreds of motorcycles. I have also literally circled the planet with my personal bikes several times (mileage wise) with this oil and never had an issue. The "Oil online argument" is the oldest cult in the world and will continue to churn out B.S. long after we are dead. 😉