Hard to push

[gtem]

The "quick and dirty" (lazy) method I've seen applied successfully is to take the pads out, push the piston out enough to get some channel locks around the outer edge (being careful not to get anywhere close to the actual working surface) and rotating them back and forth a bit, then pressing the piston back in, buttoning it all up and flushing/new fluid. Then again if you go as far as unbolting the caliper there's not *that* much more to just taking the dust seals off, pushing the piston out all the way, cleaning everything up properly maybe even popping some new piston seals on, and do everything "properly."

[MarkD]

Don't forget to clean the spooge hole in the reservoir.

[oldyam80sg]

Definitely the front brakes as I rolled the bike out my storage unit today and it moved easily but when I squeezed the front brake to stop it from rolling backwards, it got hard to move. A smack of the calipers with a rubber mallet and all was good. Still a bit cold out to fix this issue.

[cajun31]

Definitely the front brakes as I rolled the bike out my storage unit today and it moved easily but when I squeezed the front brake to stop it from rolling backwards, it got hard to move. A smack of the calipers with a rubber mallet and all was good. Still a bit cold out to fix this issue.

Pete, Have you checked to see if the calipers are centered on the rotors?

[oldyam80sg]

That I got to do. I will have to look at something else also.

[oldyam80sg]

Pete, Have you checked to see if the calipers are centered on the rotors?

Cajun-what is the procedure for doing this? I understand that there is a long bolt that goes into a sleeve and that is how the caliper mounts. There is a nut on top and the caliper straddles the disc.

[DiverRay]

Put something under the frame at the front of the engine to lift the front end off the ground. Spin the wheel and look or measure the clearance for both calipers. If they are not the same side to side, loosen the pinch bolts on the bottom of the axle and move the fork tubes to center them. Then tighten everything back up. There was a write-up for adjusting the forks at one time. You start at the bottom, the axle, and work your way up making sure everything is aligned as you do a final tight on the bolts. You do start with all bolts loose about 1/2 to 3/4 turn from tight, IIRC.

[cajun31]

Ditto what Ray just said. Just wanted to add for others reading this thread and as Brant has corrected my on in the past, centering the calipers only applies to specials. Standards don't need to be centered. I find that if you have a small wooden stick or hammer it can be used as a pry bar to help hold the fork in place while you tighten everything back up. You will find that you wish you had three hands when you adjust them for center. The reason I say used something out of wood is because all of my bike are MNS's and my forks are all painted.

[DEEBS11]

Standards auto center. However, the steel tube in the rubber sleeve must be taken out, cleaned, and re-lubricated with brake grease or the carrier will be frozen. This is the most overlooked part of the caliper on any machine. Very important. When I do this job I always use a new rubber boot.

[DEEBS11]

Just a reminder on where most of the corrosion will be.

[oldyam80sg]

I tightened up everything today so I don't forget, and smacked the calipers with a rubber mallet. Bike still moves freely. Still got to examine some things.

[DEEBS11]

OY8, if you ride it at this point make sure you do a simple safety check. After riding for about 20 or so minutes pull over somewhere safe and lightly touch each of the three brake rotors with your fingers. A good caliper rotor will be slightly warm to the touch. A bad caliper rotor will be blazing hot. The heat of brake friction will make a sticking caliper grab even worse than when it's at ambient temperature.

[red bandit]

If you touch a HOT rotor with your finger it will fry your finger. AMHIK. Maybe put some water on your finger and fling it on the rotor first. If it doesn't sizzle you could touch it with your finger.

[cajun31]

I tightened up everything today so I don't forget, and smacked the calipers with a rubber mallet. Bike still moves freely. Still got to examine some things.

Pete, I know your setup is not as good as others concerning working on the bike but it is still going to be better for you to go through those calipers. The pads are going to drag and as Deebs pointed out you will suffer in MPGs and you run the chance of warping your rotors.

[pete_s]

Just did my fronts due to poor braking at 2024 VYR. Found all the problems described with plenty of corrosion under the boots and seals. Same with the master cylinder. New stainless pucks with one still hard to push in- install, there was still corroded alloy under the new seal where you couldn't see but the seal pick worked it clean with scotch bright.
I recommend the above kit with new stainless pucks as I have not found any that are not pitted after 40 years. With the kit from BrakeCrafters.com, the only problem I had was the bleeders are short for the xs1100 standard calipers. Running DOT 5 silicone now as the system was spotless