Front axle torque and cotter pin

[LoHo]

I just replaced my front tire and am following the old manual. It says to torque the axle nut to 77 ft lbs, then insert the cotter. Searching the site has a suggestion to torque it, then rotate on way or the other to allow the cotter in. If one makes the nut tighter to allow the cotter, that might be a great deal of torque; if one loosens the nut, 77 ft lbs is not possible. What am I missing? I think torqueing to 77, then backing off a bit works better than trying to make it even tighter.

[LAB3]

I just replaced my front tire and am following the old manual. It says to torque the axle nut to 77 ft lbs, then insert the cotter. Searching the site has a suggestion to torque it, then rotate on way or the other to allow the cotter in. If one makes the nut tighter to allow the cotter, that might be a great deal of torque; if one loosens the nut, 77 ft lbs is not possible. What am I missing? I think torqueing to 77, then backing off a bit works better than trying to make it even tighter.

The old timers always said to never turn the wrench counter clockwise after tightening a nut or bolt since it somehow enhances it's ability to loosen. In my case I take the risk so to speak and keep tightening until I can line up the cotter pin.

Seems to me the two risks at play are stripping out the threads on the axle and/or distorting things angle wise between the lower legs and the hub. Crank that puppy as far as you need to, you'll feel like a rebel by disobeying the rules!

[Socer4m]

Howdy LoHO, we miss those California Rallies, still teaching? Anywho, I usually tighten to around 77 lbs then slightly tighten or loosen to let cotter pin go in nearest holes....a few pounds either way is not going to matter. Hope all is well,,,,what bike do you still have?? cya, Mike in San Diego and Pa.

[Schming]

If you're skeptical about loosening the nut to get the hole to line up, you could set the torque wrench at 70 psi and then tighten to the nearest hole.

[cajun31]

I just replaced my front tire and am following the old manual. It says to torque the axle nut to 77 ft lbs, then insert the cotter. Searching the site has a suggestion to torque it, then rotate on way or the other to allow the cotter in. If one makes the nut tighter to allow the cotter, that might be a great deal of torque; if one loosens the nut, 77 ft lbs is not possible. What am I missing? I think torqueing to 77, then backing off a bit works better than trying to make it even tighter.

I never gave it much thought. I tighten it until it feels right and can get the cotter pin in. Never have I had a problem. I have been through many tire changes over the years. The cotter pin is fairly stout is the reason I say that. To be honest doing it this way I have never observed the nut coming loose.

[bikerphil]

I torque it to maybe 60-65 then go forward until the key lines up.

[DEEBS11]

The XS11 was over engineered (which is good). I torque the nut but never use a cotter pin. Never had an issue and I put on heavy miles. Most bikes don't have this feature anymore. Like rim locks. 70's overkill devices.

[DiverRay]

You have never lost a front wheel, I see. I have, on a bicycle, and yes I would put at least a clip into the axle to hold the nut on. Yamaha didn't put many "extra" parts on these when they designed them. They wanted safe and fast, in that order.

[cajun31]

For the sake of safety and the fact that there is a place for a cotter pin I would never ride without one.

[jkorn]

Bought my 79 new. Don’t own a torque wrench. With the cotter pin I think y’all are over thinking this. I just tighten, then pin it. Jeff

[DEEBS11]

And there's your dinner!

[skids]

I just replaced my front tire and am following the old manual. It says to torque the axle nut to 77 ft lbs, then insert the cotter. Searching the site has a suggestion to torque it, then rotate on way or the other to allow the cotter in. If one makes the nut tighter to allow the cotter, that might be a great deal of torque; if one loosens the nut, 77 ft lbs is not possible. What am I missing? I think torqueing to 77, then backing off a bit works better than trying to make it even tighter.

Yes, LOHO, 77 then back it off for the cotter pin. The bearings and races will then be properly seated.

[cajun31]

Went back a read one of my service manuals and it lists the following for front and rear. The front should be torqued to 10.7 m-kg (77.4 ft-lb) and the rear 15.0 m-kg (108.5 ft-lb). It also states to use a cotter pin in both.