Niche Brake Rotors

[Peanutbutter Nma]

Hey yall,

I just set up some Niche rotors on my rear, but i noticed it would intermittently rub the hardware on the caliper bracket. First time doing the brakes, so I assumed it was a fault on my part. These rotors are like 0.1" out of round, I'm not sure if I should fix them or just ask for my money back. The pictures are screenshots from a video I sent them, but I'm waiting to hear back.

I haven't checked the other rotors yet, but I don't have high hopes. Has anyone had this experience? It seems like it's not much eccentricity, but I don't want to make compromises on the brakes.

Also, the rear rotor that was on there was much smaller than the replacement. Everything I'm seeing online lists the front and rear calipers as the same.

I really want to get her on the road before it gets cold!

[Peanutbutter Nma]

OH. Also, the pads I got which I thought were supposed to match front and rear, don't fit inside the rear shims but do fit in the front. But, looking at these parts lists tells me they're supposed to be the same:

https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oem...-brake-caliper
https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oem...-brake-caliper

I'm losing my mind over here boys. I'm not sure if filing my pads and turning down the OD of these rotors on the lathe is really copacetic.

[DiverRay]

Rotors should be within 0.006" side to side., that is maximum by the book! What model are you working on? The Standard uses the same shape pads front and rear. The Special has "special" front pads, all 4 are different. If you are not sure of the model, Standard has the axle bolted to the bottom of the forks, and the special has the axle bolted to the front of the forks.

[Peanutbutter Nma]

It's a '78 XS1100 Standard, all 4 front pads are the same. The new pads match the old front pads, but I must have tossed the old rear pads because I can't find them to compare. The pads should float freely over the shims and I can't even fit them in the caliper bracket.

[Peanutbutter Nma]

Rotors should be within 0.006" side to side., that is maximum by the book!

Then 75 thou is nucking futs. This is distinct from the normal lateral runout though, and I can't find any specs for it online. All I know is it aint right.

[DiverRay]

Any rotor that far out in ANY direction was NOT manufactured properly, IMHO. There are other rotors available for replacements, and I would look to a different source for parts. MikesXS is a good place to start, as is Partzilla. I've used both for different things I've needed.

[JeffH]

+1 on what Ray said.
Maybe they (Niche) have some Quality Control issues or are using inferior steel & aluminum.

I have NOT used Niche Rotors as I have had excellent results with EBC Rotors. But EBC Rotors cost three time more $$$ per rotor than Niche Rotors.


A review of Niche states:
Niche brake rotors seem to have mixed reviews. Some users have reported issues with the quality and performance of these rotors, such as vibrations and uneven wear¹. One user mentioned that after experiencing problems with the initial set, they received a replacement set from Niche, but still faced issues with rotor runout¹.

On the other hand, some users have had positive experiences, noting that the rotors performed well and were a good value for the price². However, it’s important to consider that the quality of materials and manufacturing processes can significantly impact the performance of brake rotors³.

If you’re looking for reliable performance, you might want to consider more established brands known for their quality and durability, even if they come at a higher price³.


Here's what EBC says about their Specs

• Premium rotor design; direct bolt-on to the stock hub/rotor carrier
• Rotor blade is stainless steel
• Weighs less than stock for less unsprung weight and improved handling response
• Rotor carrier is billet aluminum construction with a black finish

Yep, good brake parts and new brake lines are important to keep us riding safe.

If you can post a Pic of your rear Caliper & Bracket so we can see it. As you stated, something sure doesn't seem right.

Jeff

[DEEBS11]

I like mine. Several thousand miles with no issues. However, I did have to relieve the pads in the back to clear the rotor mount bolts. Must be thicker material than a stock rotor. The positive: Brutally excellent braking and I really use them trying to stop a fully laden sidecar rig.

[Peanutbutter Nma]

Hey yall,

I'm currently working through the warranty process for just the one rotor. The other two had half the runout of the first one. The rotor is a pretty big diameter to hold tight tolerances for, but if I can see it with the naked eye that's unacceptable. I took the best looking front rotor and tossed it on the back, still had plenty of meat so it should hold me over til I finish the warranty stuff. I also had to file down the pads, but not for clearance. They just don't seem to fit inside the shims. Getting the new tire thrown on the front, then she should be rolling.

Last two things for mechanical peace of mind are going to be cleaning the tank, expecting to crack some rubber fuel lines pulling the tank. I have a little cracking in the carb boots as well, so I'm going to sort that out as well.

While I have yall, any suggestions for carb boots? I'm also contemplating switching over to pod air intakes but I don't want to have to fiddle with the tune just yet.

[Peanutbutter Nma]

Here's a picture of my rear caliper setup. Everything I've read tells me I've got a '78 standard.

[Peanutbutter Nma]

I'm gotta say, I'm really disappointed in the quality of parts I'm getting. Swapping in an R1 fork is more appealing by the day.

I expected MikeXs to be good but my front MC had clip connectors instead of the bullet plugs. The brake line fitting is sufficiently far from stock so as to make my new spiegler stainless lines too short to reach the front splitter without moving my handlebars pretty far down(and looks the thing looks a bit anemic). The slides for the shim kit are too wide to fit inside the ears on the pads. I haven't approached them over the shims, but they said there was a supply change they were unaware of when I asked about the MC, haven't reached out about the shims yet.

I just soldered the old wire and connectors on the new lines so a return didn't seem necessary. I'm thinking of running the old shims with new pads for the the couple rides to and from the shop for an inspection before tucking her up for the winter.

I've thrown on a couple pictures of how the new pads fit with with the new shims vs the old. I'm not very confident I could fix this fitment.

[DEEBS11]

It's not uncommon to file those surfaces in order to fit better. Too loose would be a bigger problem.

[bikerphil]

One thing I notice that is wrong is the silver clips have a curved edge that should be flat sitting flush with the caliper bracket. It is contacting the corner of the pad. I would either use the originals if you have them or hammer that curve flat so it doesn't bind with the corner of the pad.

[LAB3]

I've been to MikeXS just outside of Tampa in person, basically it's an office in the front of a warehouse. Pretty doubtful that anyone in there actually rides, word has it an IT company bought out several smaller outfits and they just ship out parts.

[Peanutbutter Nma]

It's not uncommon to file those surfaces in order to fit better. To loose would be a bigger problem.

I thought the same when I was first fiddling with them and I did a bit of research to see if I could find a good reference as to how to do it. The first video I saw had this schmuck grinding the ears off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zpTp82jZaaI&t=115s

I don't know much but that don't seem right lol widening the gap I feel a bit better about now that I have wizened advice on the matter. I did nuclear stuff in a past life so I'm really hesitant to make undue modifications to well engineered equipment. My front MC was toast, otherwise I'd rebuild it. I need to figure out a more permanent solution to the lil fella that I replaced it with.