Fuel gauge problem

[CBX1000]

You can test the gauge on the bench after repairing by simply touching a 9V battery to the posts, and you will see the needle slowly rise if it is working correctly. The voltage regulator in the wiring harness on the back of the tach is 7VDC. They are also known to go bad.

I've got the gauge repaired now with the bimetal leg soldered back to where it broke off. Also repaired the broken wire at the start of the winding around the bimetal. However testing with a 9V battery (brand new) the gauge doesn't move. I checked continuity between the 2 posts & am getting around 62 ohms resistance. Would that be about right?

[bikerphil]

I get 46.5 ohms and it takes about 30 seconds to pin the gauge with the 9V battery.

[CBX1000]

I get 46.5 ohms and it takes about 30 seconds to pin the gauge with the 9V battery.

Very strange; there is quite a large amount of tension on the leg with the windings when I gently push the needle across to F. So the 9v actually shifts that leg with the pin going through the elongated hole at the base of the needle? I'm getting no movement whatsoever with 9v at the 2 terminals

[bikerphil]

Yes, the voltage heats up the bi-metal and that pin slides in that channel moving the needle. This mechanism with the needle should move rather smoothly.

[CBX1000]

Yes, the voltage heats up the bi-metal and that pin slides in that channel moving the needle. This mechanism with the needle should move rather smoothly.

A follow up to previous posts; I re-assembled the fuel gauge/tacho cluster & plugged back into the bike's wiring loom, turned the key & lo & behold the gauge works perfectly . Can't think why it wouldn't work on the bench with a 9V battery. Thanks for the assistance with this repair. Now if only I could find a nice pair of gauge surround damper cushions- mine are very tatty...

[bikerphil]

Well that's good news. If you can find one of those gaskets, the Yamaha P/N is 2H7-83513-01-00.

I've made gaskets before by using window weatherstripping and trimming it to fit. I had to paint it of course because it was white, It worked very well.

[CBX1000]

Well that's good news. If you can find one of those gaskets, the Yamaha P/N is 2H7-83513-01-00.

I've made gaskets before by using window weatherstripping and trimming it to fit. I had to paint it of course because it was white, It worked very well.

Yes I did have that part no. on record, thanks- have done an extensive search online & there's nothing. I guess my only hope is somebody who has a few spares...either new or used. I thought about making them myself however it's difficult to shape 4 corners squarely- circular gaskets are not a problem to make.

[bikerphil]

With the weatherstripping, I just wrap it around the whole unit in one piece and it makes it's own corners. I leave the junction at the bottom out of sight. When the gasket gets squeezed together with the casing, it looks close to factory.

[Radioguylogs]

i used two pieces of adhesive-backed EPDM closed cell foam from McMaster-Carr. Old is on the right, new on the left of the cardboard.

[CBX1000]

[QUOTE=bikerphil;n881504]With the weatherstripping, I just wrap it around the whole unit in one piece and it makes it's own corners. I leave the junction at the bottom out of sight. When the gasket gets squeezed together with the casing, it looks close to factory.

I'll definitely look into that & see what I can fabricate...

[CBX1000]

[QUOTE=Radioguylogs;n881512] i used two pieces of adhesive-backed EPDM closed cell foam from McMaster-Carr. Old is on the right, new on the left of the cardboard.

Indeed another option, thanks

[bikerphil]

Yep, what I did after the unit was all assembled again with the new gasket was to seal the bottom gap with a dab of RTV and then mask off around the new gasket and hit it with black paint.