Snapped header stud

[LAB3]

So, the gasket between the header and cylinder head on my bike gave up the ghost along with the gasket on the lower part of the pipe where it fits into the collector. Knowing the header bolts often snap off I went for a hard 10 mile rip in first and second gear to get the head HOT before trying to remove the fasteners on the header.

Sure enough, one of them snapped off, the other came off without a hitch. Not having looked at a manual or picture I just assumed they where bolts holding it on, not a stud along with a hex headed nut fitting. So, my question is, can that stud be backed out (there's plenty of other left to work with) or does it need to be drilled and re-trapped? Hopefully it's the former!

[DiverRay]

You should be able to back out the stud. I would start with heat on the stud, then spray PB Blaster around the base of it. Let it cool for a bit, and then try with a stud removal tool. If it doesn't want to budge, don't force it, just reapply the heat and PB. It may take two or the applications of heat to work it loose.

[LAB3]

Cool! Actually I figured it out after posting since I temporarily fell into despair over the situation thinking it was far worse than it actually was.

There's plenty enough stud left to thread a nut onto it (already tried) so I'm going to find someone who can tack weld that nut to the stud and take it from there. I've got it all back together right now (with one stud holding it on) and fresh gaskets on both ends of the pipe and it no longer sounds like the engine has no oil and is developing a rod knock like it did before! Sounds like a sewing machine again.

[DiverRay]

If you have the threads, just put on two nuts, lock them together, and unscrew the stud.

[LAB3]

If you have the threads, just put on two nuts, lock them together, and unscrew the stud.

It broke off clean right at that hex head nut fitting dealy that goes into the "donut" holding the pipe in. Luckily I can fit one nut on it but not much more.

[Larrym]

You should be able to back out the stud. I would start with heat on the stud, then spray PB Blaster around the base of it. Let it cool for a bit, and then try with a stud removal tool. If it doesn't want to budge, don't force it, just reapply the heat and PB. It may take two or the applications of heat to work it loose.

From my experience as working in a muffler/exhaust shop? (_OO)

Ray's method wurky mOsT of the times...mostily. Until it no wurky. (●´⌓`●)

Then it's time to change it up a bit. (╹ڡ╹)

INstead of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (or any petroleum based products...)? ﾍ(￣ー￣)ﾉ

I use USED DOT3 brake fluid in a small sprayer to douse the seized bolts/studs. Way better/faster at penetrating and dissolving rust. ( ‾́ ◡ ‾́ )

Then? I Actually used THIS when the same nuts were hard to remove and bOoGeReDeD the threads to the point I din't trust'em no mOaR-

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...0/w83203?pos=0

Sprayed ALL the studs, let'em soak 1/2 hour, and removed'em all. (•‿•)

Used anti-seize on all the threads when I installed studs/nuts AND the crush gaskets like I did when an exhaust mechanic. ( •_•)

5 Years later and Imma still waiting to see iffin' that wuz the right move. (*ﾟｰﾟ)ゞ

[bikerphil]

Hopefully it's not one that's buried behind one of the frame rails.

[DEEBS11]

All good suggestions. However, welding the nut onto the stud has worked every time for me. It gives the intense heat that you need to release those threads without damage.

[LAB3]

All good suggestions. However, welding the nut onto the stud has worked every time for me. It gives the intense heat that you need to release those threads without damage.

Yeah, it's just what makes the most sense. Don't know how many times over the years that I made things worse trying to grab what's left with vice grips, pipe wrench or whatever I could put on it to grab it. Luckily it's the uppermost stud on the #2 cylinder, plenty easy to get to.