Snapped header stud

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  • LAB3
    XSive Maximus
    • May 2022
    • 677
    • Traveling the U.S. with no permanent address

    #1

    Snapped header stud

    So, the gasket between the header and cylinder head on my bike gave up the ghost along with the gasket on the lower part of the pipe where it fits into the collector. Knowing the header bolts often snap off I went for a hard 10 mile rip in first and second gear to get the head HOT before trying to remove the fasteners on the header.

    Sure enough, one of them snapped off, the other came off without a hitch. Not having looked at a manual or picture I just assumed they where bolts holding it on, not a stud along with a hex headed nut fitting. So, my question is, can that stud be backed out (there's plenty of other left to work with) or does it need to be drilled and re-trapped? Hopefully it's the former!
    1980 XS1100G

    Intelligent people discuss ideas, average people discuss events, petty people discuss other people.
  • DiverRay
    Moderator
    • Nov 2004
    • 7600
    • Star, IDAHO

    #2
    You should be able to back out the stud. I would start with heat on the stud, then spray PB Blaster around the base of it. Let it cool for a bit, and then try with a stud removal tool. If it doesn't want to budge, don't force it, just reapply the heat and PB. It may take two or the applications of heat to work it loose.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

    Comment

    • LAB3
      XSive Maximus
      • May 2022
      • 677
      • Traveling the U.S. with no permanent address

      #3
      Cool! Actually I figured it out after posting since I temporarily fell into despair over the situation thinking it was far worse than it actually was.

      There's plenty enough stud left to thread a nut onto it (already tried) so I'm going to find someone who can tack weld that nut to the stud and take it from there. I've got it all back together right now (with one stud holding it on) and fresh gaskets on both ends of the pipe and it no longer sounds like the engine has no oil and is developing a rod knock like it did before! Sounds like a sewing machine again.
      1980 XS1100G

      Intelligent people discuss ideas, average people discuss events, petty people discuss other people.

      Comment

      • DiverRay
        Moderator
        • Nov 2004
        • 7600
        • Star, IDAHO

        #4
        If you have the threads, just put on two nuts, lock them together, and unscrew the stud.
        Ray Matteis
        KE6NHG
        XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
        XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

        Comment

        • LAB3
          XSive Maximus
          • May 2022
          • 677
          • Traveling the U.S. with no permanent address

          #5
          Originally posted by DiverRay
          If you have the threads, just put on two nuts, lock them together, and unscrew the stud.
          It broke off clean right at that hex head nut fitting dealy that goes into the "donut" holding the pipe in. Luckily I can fit one nut on it but not much more.

          Click image for larger version

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          1980 XS1100G

          Intelligent people discuss ideas, average people discuss events, petty people discuss other people.

          Comment

          • Larrym
            XS-XJ Guru
            • Oct 2008
            • 1294
            • Tucson

            #6
            Originally posted by DiverRay
            You should be able to back out the stud. I would start with heat on the stud, then spray PB Blaster around the base of it. Let it cool for a bit, and then try with a stud removal tool. If it doesn't want to budge, don't force it, just reapply the heat and PB. It may take two or the applications of heat to work it loose.
            From my experience as working in a muffler/exhaust shop? (_OO)

            Ray's method wurky mOsT of the times...mostily. Until it no wurky. (●´⌓`●)

            Then it's time to change it up a bit. (╹ڡ╹)

            INstead of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (or any petroleum based products...)? ヘ( ̄ー ̄)ノ

            I use USED DOT3 brake fluid in a small sprayer to douse the seized bolts/studs. Way better/faster at penetrating and dissolving rust. ( ‾́ ◡ ‾́ )

            Then? I Actually used THIS when the same nuts were hard to remove and bOoGeReDeD the threads to the point I din't trust'em no mOaR-

            https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...0/w83203?pos=0

            Sprayed ALL the studs, let'em soak 1/2 hour, and removed'em all. (•‿•)

            Used anti-seize on all the threads when I installed studs/nuts AND the crush gaskets like I did when an exhaust mechanic. ( •_•)

            5 Years later and Imma still waiting to see iffin' that wuz the right move. (*゚ー゚)ゞ
            Last edited by Larrym; 08-21-2024, 02:12 PM.

            Comment

            • bikerphil
              Master of XSology
              • Jan 2008
              • 8629
              • South Flori-DUH

              #7
              Hopefully it's not one that's buried behind one of the frame rails.
              2H7 (79) owned since '89
              3H3 owned since '06

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

              Comment

              • DEEBS11
                XS-XJ Guru
                • Feb 2023
                • 1384
                • Connecticut

                #8
                All good suggestions. However, welding the nut onto the stud has worked every time for me. It gives the intense heat that you need to release those threads without damage.

                Comment

                • LAB3
                  XSive Maximus
                  • May 2022
                  • 677
                  • Traveling the U.S. with no permanent address

                  #9
                  Originally posted by DEEBS11
                  All good suggestions. However, welding the nut onto the stud has worked every time for me. It gives the intense heat that you need to release those threads without damage.
                  Yeah, it's just what makes the most sense. Don't know how many times over the years that I made things worse trying to grab what's left with vice grips, pipe wrench or whatever I could put on it to grab it. Luckily it's the uppermost stud on the #2 cylinder, plenty easy to get to.
                  1980 XS1100G

                  Intelligent people discuss ideas, average people discuss events, petty people discuss other people.

                  Comment

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