Clutch Sticking

[IanDMacDonald]

Hey all-

I've been teaching MSF curriculum over the last decade, and one of the exercises wreaks havoc on my clutch: Ex. 9- Limited Space Maneuvers (20-ft. box). When I practice this exercise prior to the students arrival, it'll burn my clutch up to the point where it sticks, within 5 minutes or so. By the end of the day, it'll unstick. I did install new clutch fibers last Summer, after burning it up, doing this very exercise. But, even after the fresh clutch fiber install, the clutch still tends to stick after five to ten continuous minutes of staying within the friction zone.

Is this just not a great bike to use for extended friction zone usage? I do not believe I have any extra steels within the clutch, and it has the Barnett HD springs I installed a few years back.

[LAB3]

Here's my question, why would you teach a maneuver that causes this sort of problem to newbies? Any time I'm maneuvering at slow speeds I quickly pull and release the clutch lever to get some speed up.

[jetmechmarty]

I'm not sure if it's the fix, but I put Alto plates in my XS650. I used thinner so I could add one. I was slipping, even after replacing the friction plates. So, I added two plates (one drive, one driven) and a different kind of friction material. Fixed! Not all friction plates are the same.

I know the exercise and why you do it. So, you're teaching on Grandpa's motorcycle!

[Schming]

Here's my question, why would you teach a maneuver that causes this sort of problem to newbies? Any time I'm maneuvering at slow speeds I quickly pull and release the clutch lever to get some speed up.

^^Yep^^ that's how it works well for me also with a blip of throttle judiciously applied

[Radioguylogs]

The XS11 clutch doesn't seem that different than the clutches on other bikes, except some have a single cupped spring instead of six coil springs.

I suspect most bikes would have a problem if you continuously slip the clutch for 10 minutes.

[DEEBS11]

Could be a possible issue with clutch material or oil type. Glazed or warped plates. Also the "fingers" and slots. They have to be free to slide. No burrs.

[Tonyxs11]

my clutch was sticking on my project bike, found the problem !!!!!

[DEEBS11]

This is a good tool for removing glaze and minor corrosion from clutch plates and brake rotors. If you see pits or warping they are junk.

[Socer4m]

Howdy Ian,,,are you using full synthetic oil? Some guys swear by the old dino, non synthetic, some swear by the new age full synthetic for these ol xs1100 s. I have been using full synthetic 10/30 and have had no issues with sticking even in your type of situation and in full on Las Vegas, 115 degree traffic for an hour stop and go,,,,anyway, didnt want to start another oil thread but full synthetic keep its lubrication in tough weather and heat conditions better than ol non synthetic,,,,,just my experience in multiple xs1100, xj1100s that I have had over the many years,,,,good luck,,,,ride happy,,,Mike in San Diego

[IanDMacDonald]

Howdy Ian,,,are you using full synthetic oil? Some guys swear by the old dino, non synthetic, some swear by the new age full synthetic for these ol xs1100 s. I have been using full synthetic 10/30 and have had no issues with sticking even in your type of situation and in full on Las Vegas, 115 degree traffic for an hour stop and go,,,,anyway, didnt want to start another oil thread but full synthetic keep its lubrication in tough weather and heat conditions better than ol non synthetic,,,,,just my experience in multiple xs1100, xj1100s that I have had over the many years,,,,good luck,,,,ride happy,,,Mike in San Diego

Hey Mike- No, Walmart SuperTech 20W50. I ended-up having issues with the clutch again, not even five minutes into using the clutch in an exercise. Had to limp it home again. Readjusted the throw-out bearing. We'll see if it's any better next time I use the bike.

[Socer4m]

howdy Ian,,,,if still sticking, maybe lube the cable and adjust the clutch down by the engine, very importante,,,,,,there is a procedure to adjust, if I recall correctly,,,,,pop the cover, loosen the clutch cable at the handle and then go down to the lower cable end inside the cover,,,,,loosen the nut and phillips screw, back off then tighten semi snug then back off 1/4 turn and lock the nut. IF the cable has any friction it will hinder the free release of the clutch,,,,and also maybe try the synthetic oil instead of the dinosaur oil,,,,keep us informed, maybe another guru can also have some guidence...Mike in Sun DIego and Pa.

[IanDMacDonald]

Hey Mike- Yeah, I did that last week. We'll see what happens.

[LenB]

I found that I could greatly reduce clutch sticking by soaking the friction plates in oil overnight to get them really saturated prior to re-assembling. Used to like to engage the clutch with the lever close to the grip but realized that it needed to be properly disengaged for starting off / shifting and, with there being no allowance for wear, clutch dragging and difficult shifting were the result. Became so hard to find neutral that stomping on the shifter led to transmission damages. Also used to run 20w50 but no longer go on highway marathons so found 10w40 reduced the WHACK when engaging 1st gear in a cold engine. Also,as previously suggested, lubing cable and adjustments to the cable slack and throwout bearing are important for full disengagement & engagement. No problems since as a result. Shifts as good as an XS with over 95K kms can.

[IanDMacDonald]

Yeah, the bike only gets one oil change a year, and has always used 20W50. Lighter oil is tempting. I did soak the plates and fibers when I replaced the clutch, but found the clutch would not disengage. Pulled it back out and wiped the oil off. Might have been a stiction issue.

These clutches just may not be that great for extended clutch use.

[DEEBS11]

I have never had anything but problems with Barnett pads sticking. I hate the early morning "CLACK" when shifting into first gear. Like fingernails on a blackboard. They are basically for drag racing. Terrible for street use. Stock pads are the way to go. Barnett springs are ok to use with stock pads.