Fuel screw trouble

[cajun31]

Watch for sticking brake calipers!!!! If you did not pull them apart, I WOULD do so BEFORE the first ride. The caliper is aluminum and will stop the piston from returning after one or two times. If you have gone through them, then bleed and enjoy the ride!

I strongly second what Ray is advising. Often overlooked but crucial to a safe ride. Don't skimp on redoing the brakes. If you have already done so then cheers ... bleed them and ride. If not then look up a company such as brake crafters and get them rebuilt properly. Stainless pistons now will keep you from ever having to worry about them again. Another suggestion ... if you don't already own one is to get your hands on either a MityVac or something similar. It makes bleeding the brakes quicker, cleaner and much less frustration. They are also in my opinion crucial in doing a full brake fluid replacement no less then every two years. I have learned that one the hard headed way. Get into the regimen of doing that and you never have the problems that many face with locked up rusted sticking calipers.

[cnap504]

Thanks for the safety tip, I did freshen up the calipers but I am having trouble successfully bleeding the front system. Tried the speed bleeders with a Mitey Vac, didn’t work. So then put the original bleeders back on to pump fluid (with a big syringe) from the bottom up, didn’t work. It’s the last repair before I can ride it so I need to come up with a working strategy

[Bax]

cnap504 Did you rebuild the master cylinder? When squeezing the brake can you see fluid or bubbles from the spooge hole in the reservoir base? If that spooge hole is blocked it'll give you all kinds of issues when trying to bleed.

---Bax

[Bonz]

cnap504 Did you rebuild the master cylinder? When squeezing the brake can you see fluid or bubbles from the spooge hole in the reservoir base? If that spooge hole is blocked it'll give you all kinds of issues when trying to bleed.

---Bax

Yes, the spooge hole... always seems to crop up with respect to the XS.

[cajun31]

Thanks for the safety tip, I did freshen up the calipers but I am having trouble successfully bleeding the front system. Tried the speed bleeders with a Mitey Vac, didn’t work. So then put the original bleeders back on to pump fluid (with a big syringe) from the bottom up, didn’t work. It’s the last repair before I can ride it so I need to come up with a working strategy

No where in any of your posts have you said what brake lines you are using. New or old? The reason I ask is because of the comments about bleeding with the MityVac. I had the same problem and I still have the original lines on my current project. I will second about checking the spooge hole. To clean it I use a bread tie wire. What I found with my bike was the original brake lines were blocked with crud. To clean them I got my hands on an old guitar string and some brake cleaner. Run the string down the line... remove shoot brake cleaner in and repeat process until you can shoot brake cleaner straight through the line. Once the lines and the spooge are clear you can readily pull fluid through with the MityVac.

[cnap504]

All three front lines were blocked, I removed them ran piano wire through them until brake cleaner and compressed air blew through without restriction.
The spooge hole, can it be unblocked while the master cylinder is still assembled, mounted and containing brake fluid, or do I need to take it apart?
And is it the only hole in the bottom of the reservoir or are there more that should be cleaned? Thanks

[Schming]

Thanks for the safety tip, I did freshen up the calipers but I am having trouble successfully bleeding the front system. Tried the speed bleeders with a Mitey Vac, didn’t work. So then put the original bleeders back on to pump fluid (with a big syringe) from the bottom up, didn’t work. It’s the last repair before I can ride it so I need to come up with a working strategy

Please don't forget that if your bike has the original 40 plus year old rubber brake hoses REPLACE THEM !!! IMHO I would not trust my life or all the hard work to sub par stopping power.

[Schming]

All three front lines were blocked, I removed them ran piano wire through them until brake cleaner and compressed air blew through without restriction.
The spooge hole, can it be unblocked while the master cylinder is still assembled, mounted and containing brake fluid, or do I need to take it apart?
And is it the only hole in the bottom of the reservoir or are there more that should be cleaned? Thanks

If there was crud blocking the hoses you can bet that the MC is fouled also. When I refresh brakes on any bike every part gets dismantled cleaned, inspected and depending on condition sometimes replaced, no short cuts.

[cajun31]

All three front lines were blocked, I removed them ran piano wire through them until brake cleaner and compressed air blew through without restriction.
The spooge hole, can it be unblocked while the master cylinder is still assembled, mounted and containing brake fluid, or do I need to take it apart?
And is it the only hole in the bottom of the reservoir or are there more that should be cleaned? Thanks

The brake lines are old... I agree with Schming that Ideally they should be replaced. Until you do your brakes will feel spongy at best. They will still work and will stop the bike under normal riding conditions ...but ... if you ever have to get on them quickly because the brakes are a bit spongy they don't grab as aggressively. You get the picture... stainless lines should be on your list of things to do. Back to the spooge hole. It you take the cap off of the master and remove all the brake fluid .... I use a cajun injector syringe for this. You will see a small hole in the middle area of reservoir. I will try to find a picture to help you locate it. the easiest way to clean it of course is to completely disassemble the master... meaning remove the plastic by prying up off the metal and disassemble everything. that way you can readily have access to the and you will be able to see the wire when you push it through the hole. the wire will emerge in the plunger canal. I also shoot some brake cleaner through it after cleaning with wire to ensure it is thoroughly clean. It can be cleared with the wire from the top. I believe a small portion of the plastic reservoir base slightly covers the hole though which is why I am telling you complete disassembly is the better method.

[cajun31]

look in the maintenance repair area. Find the post concerning the spooge holes front and back masters. Here is the picture of the front with the reservoir removed.

[cnap504]

Yep the hole was blocked and I did use a bread tie wire to clear it. I’ll be bleeding the system tonight and will post the results. The safety cautions that were mentioned in your responses won’t go unheeded and thanks. I do want to take it down my street but I won’t go far or more than jogging speed.

[cajun31]

Yep the hole was blocked and I did use a bread tie wire to clear it. I’ll be bleeding the system tonight and will post the results. The safety cautions that were mentioned in your responses won’t go unheeded and thanks. I do want to take it down my street but I won’t go far or more than jogging speed.

Glad to see you found the source of the problem.

[cnap504]

I am impressed the 11 carburetes very well, it is smooth and quiet with stock exhaust. I put individual air filter pods, did away with the factory dual petcock system in favor of one manual Pingel valve.
142.5 mains, 45 pilots, shimmed needles .030”, set fuel screws to 3 2/3rds out. The bike is coming along well. Need new tires front and rear before being comfortable with its road worthyness.

[cajun31]

I am impressed the 11 carburetes very well, it is smooth and quiet with stock exhaust. I put individual air filter pods, did away with the factory dual petcock system in favor of one manual Pingel valve.
142.5 mains, 45 pilots, shimmed needles .030”, set fuel screws to 3 2/3rds out. The bike is coming along well. Need new tires front and rear before being comfortable with its road worthyness.

I have never gone up as high as a 142.5 main. It doesn't run rich? No complaints from folks riding behind you?

[cnap504]

Recently I have rescued a Suzuki GS1150 and Yamaha XS750 all with Mikuni BST 34 carbs also all with individual pod air filters. Both run on 145 mains, I think the lack of a proper air box allows bigger mains. When reassembling the XS1100 carbs I took a shot and put in the 142.5’s considering the apparent success I had with the others. It doesn’t stink of overly rich carburation, runs well and no black smoke.