I have all of the other races out, the one that I cant get a grip on is the one on the bottom of the neck of the frame. I've rented a couple bearing race removal tools but none have the proper width. I've notched it up with a dremel. I've used chisels and punches. If anyone has any other ideas of how to remove this stubborn pos let me know.
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Remove lower steering stem race from frame.
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Use the Dremel to cut the race, then use a cold chisel to break the race into two parts. This took me about an hour the last time I did it, but I went slowly as the bike only has 21K miles on it.
1. put a thin cut-off blade on the dremel
2. cut two slots in the race, trying to go almost through the race.
3. with a cold chisel, try to break the race by putting the edge of the chisel into one slot and hitting it with a big hammer.
4. once it breaks, use a long punch to remove the two parts.
5. use the dremel cut-off blade to make the two slots in the neck, at the seat portion, larger so it is easier to get a punch on the race next time.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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Originally posted by DiverRay View PostUse the Dremel to cut the race, then use a cold chisel to break the race into two parts. This took me about an hour the last time I did it, but I went slowly as the bike only has 21K miles on it.
1. put a thin cut-off blade on the dremel
2. cut two slots in the race, trying to go almost through the race.
3. with a cold chisel, try to break the race by putting the edge of the chisel into one slot and hitting it with a big hammer.
4. once it breaks, use a long punch to remove the two parts.
5. use the dremel cut-off blade to make the two slots in the neck, at the seat portion, larger so it is easier to get a punch on the race next time.
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If all else fails, you could always try throwing some heat on it. Many times it will just fall right out practically when you get it glowing. I have done like Ray suggested before with vertical cuts, I did ding up the metal slightly on the frame below the race but it didn't cause any problems installing the new one.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Originally posted by bikerphil View PostIf all else fails, you could always try throwing some heat on it. Many times it will just fall right out practically when you get it glowing. I have done like Ray suggested before with vertical cuts, I did ding up the metal slightly on the frame below the race but it didn't cause any problems installing the new one.
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That's a good feeling-Mike
_________
'79 XS1100SF 20k miles
'80 XS1100SG 44k miles
'81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
'79 XS750SF 17k miles
'85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
'86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles
Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65
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Sorry, I should have said vertical slots. The idea is to cut the race into two half round parts. This will make it smaller and it should come out.
I'm happy you finally have it out! Be sure to use a LOT of grease in the new bearings. I used the EP Moly grease, so it will take the pressure longer before the race starts to wear.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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Banshee, if you have a welder of any sort(arc or wire-feed) weld a bead around inside of that race, shrinking it. It will then just fall out.Last edited by motoman; 09-27-2020, 02:50 PM.81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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What about one of the spray cans of “freeze-off”? Hit that bearing race with a shot of that then pop it out? Could even heat the outside of the stem for a quick burst after cooling the race.Howard
ZRX1200
BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462
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Originally posted by Bonz View PostWhat about one of the spray cans of “freeze-off”? Hit that bearing race with a shot of that then pop it out? Could even heat the outside of the stem for a quick burst after cooling the race.81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.
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I think that's a great idea hopefully he has the ability to do the welding.
The heat transferring crossed my mind however I was thinking a quick burst of heat around the stem would minimize heat transfer to the (hopefully) "super cooled" bearing and the combination would be better than just freezing the race itself and popping it out.Howard
ZRX1200
BTW, ZRX carbs have the same spacing as the XS11... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35462
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Put the race in the freezer for about an hour before the install. It will go in much easier. Also, I used a 1' length of 2" steel water pipe( I think it was 2") to install the bearing on the steering stem. I took the old bearing apart, ground out the inside of it so it would slip over the stem, and used it to install the new bearing.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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